My '86 Toy overheated, I added coolant and oil and it worked fine on one short trip. The next time I tried to start it, the starter cranks and cranks, no start and air bubbles are going into coolant reservoir. What's wrong? Mechanic pushing new engine, but it ran fine after overheating. I don't believe I need an engine.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius, my coolant is always overflowing to my reservoir. It doesn't have any overheating problem, if I will fill up the radiator I could see bubbles coming out, How can I resolve this problem?
View 8 RepliesI have bubbles in the ps reservoir, I changed the Power steering pump, the ps hose, the ps fluid... I dont know what else to do. when the power steering become hot, it begin to do a noise and to do bubbles in the reservoir. The car is a Hyundai santa fe 2003 v6 2.7l
View 3 RepliesDuring the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 RepliesI have heard from a few people that it might be the computer that is messed up. Just replaced cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, fuel filters. Pump turns on. Cranks and cranks but won't start. Took the intake cover off and tried starting it, all it did was back fire. Checked the firing order and everything is right. So im left with guessing at the computer and ignition??
View 5 RepliesBut here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
View 1 Replies1986 ford f150 standard cab, manual trans with 3 plus overdrive.
1989 302 rebuild v8. When trying to start occasionally the ignition continues to turn over..
Even after the engine fires, the starter continues to turn over until I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Then it fires up fine afterwards what could the problem be.
I'm thinking the starter, or the ignition switch but I also heard it could be the starter solenoid.
My 1986 Ranger 2.9 starts only when I spray starter fluid into the air intake. It does stay running and it drives fine. The engine will not fire up unless I do this process. I have cleaned out the fuel rail, fuel injectors, purchased new fuel filter, and tested fuel pressure (which is good).
View 9 RepliesI am talking about those two hoses going into the firewall by my Blower Motor assembly that may be leaking and wanted to know if i can bypass or plug up these two hoses, since i no longer have ARA A/C and heater.
1986 140 CID GAS Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed manual
After market ARA A/C - No longer working
Blower motor heating coil element caught on fire - heater no longer working either.
Most days, before I drive somewhere, even just a few miles or less, I have to put in a little coolant, about one or two cups, So I know there is a leak coming from somewhere, it's just not visible, but strangely dripping from my right side front fender wall, just below the air filter, seems strange. Did not see any tiny leaks from my radiator.
What I have done was to check hoses from the radiator to the engine and noticed no leaks. Is there anything else I could do without a major repair? I even used that stop leak a while ago, but that didn't work.
A few days later.. Ok, when I got home today, I noticed antifreeze dripping from that shield over the right side passengers wheel well. I crawled underneath and on the other side of the tire, and did not see anything as the source. I would think that it would be in the area of the radiator, either upper or lower hoses, or that short hose to the block near the water pump. I will check the heater core hoses going from engine area into Firewall again. But I did not see anything leaking from that right side firewall. I have an aftermarket ARA AC, bit that hasn't worked for years.
If the leak is not coming from the head gasket, upper or lower radiator hoses, or those two hoses going into the firewall, where else could it be coning from? Very strange it's not anywhere near the radiator or engine, but on the right side passenger's side, above the tires wheel well. Some have said it has to be from either those two heater core water hoses going into the firewall.
I have neither a working air conditioner (after marker ARA) or a working heater (leaves found their way from the outside hood vents into the Blower motor and EVAP core and the heating element caught some leaves on fire and burned mostly everything inside this box. I have not replaced that, nor would I at this point,but just want to fix the leak)
A friend suggested that I could just BYPASS the water hoses going into the firewall....is this plausible? Do I do next to the inlet/outlet hoses bt the water pump. or somewhere else?
I changed the starter on my friends sunfire gt the other day because it wasn't working. After replacing the starter the engine turns over but refuses to start. When you turn the key on you can hear the pump buzz like normal, but it just cranks and cranks without even firing.
View 3 RepliesI checked the oil it does not have coolant in it, so that eliminates the headgasket.
View 3 RepliesWent to Advanced Auto to get the battery tested since it takes a few cranks for the engine to start. I thought it was the battery but after testing the battery they think maybe its the starter because the battery and alternator shows that its perfect.
I will also be taking the car to get the timing belt and drive belt replaced and the spark plugs and wires. I just want to know if you all think its the starter or should i check anything else.
My buddy has a 2000 1.8T Passat and he has oil in coolant reservoir. It does not blow out any smoke. It runs fine, and does NOT have coolant in the oil. We pulled off the oil/coolant heat exchanger on the oil filter and it appears to be good. We blocked off one end and filled it with coolant and put compressed air to the other end. Nothing came out. He took it to the shop and they said the turbo seals were good. I can't verify that though.
Head gasket? Worse yet cracked head or block? The car does have 170,000 miles.
Pulled up to a red light yesterday evening and saw some smoke near the right side of the hood. I immediately checked out the temperature gauge and it was fine. Car didn't appear to be overheating. I make it home--2 more blocks--pull into the garage, leave the engine running and pop open the hood.
THE COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR TANK IS BUBBLING LIKE HOT SOUP AND A NICE PUDDLE HAS ACCUMULATED NEAR MY FRONT RIGHT TIRE--NOT TO MENTION THE TRAIL OF COOLANT LEFT DOWN THE STREET AND UP MY DRIVEWAY.
After some minor research it appears that it can be a few factors (ie, thermostat, fans????) I assumed it was a cracked reservoir (which would explain the leak) but the bubbling it the real issue.
Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
I have a problem with my 1986 Toyota 4X4 pickup for over four years now,the problem is a noise from the front end that occurs when hubs are in Locked position a loud humming that comes and goes, I can hit the brakes hard and it goes away for a few seconds, I can hit a bump and it goes away for a few seconds, I can take a sharp turn and it goes away for a few seconds. This woowoowoo or hum only happens when the hubs are locked not when they are in the free position, I cannot shift in 4wd and make it go away for a few seconds, the noise gets worse the faster I go, it also gets worse the colder the weather is. I have replaced the axles twice and the front diff once and still has a noise, I have checked the wheel bearings for play and they are fine, I have repacked the hubs with fresh grease, the sound, sounds like metal to metal friction.
View 5 RepliesI have had my certified 2010 Prius since June 2015. Last Saturday I noticed my inverter coolant reservoir was on the low mark. I went to the closest dealer and they topped it off up almost to the full mark for free. I thought it had probably went down from evaporation and I just hadn't noticed it before. Yesterday I went back to the dealer where I purchased it which is about 90 miles away to have the CVT fluid changed. This morning the coolant was back down to almost the low mark. I looked on the ground and can't see any evidence of a leak. Tomorrow I have a appointment to have them check it. Since it is still in the one year certified warranty I don't know how motivated they will be to find the problem when they can't charge me for it. I don't think the level would have went back down right away if there wasn't a leak somewhere. I checked and there have been no recalls done or called for on it.
View 12 RepliesCamry 2002 V6 SE.
I had my radiator changed about 2 weeks ago and ever since whenever I drive the car for longer than 30 mins the coolant reservoir boils over as soon as i stop. After much ado i decided to change my radiator cap to one with a higher rating (while my old cap had a 1.0 rating on it the new one has a 1.1 rating), the boiling over in the reservoir has stopped but the upper radiator hose is taut with tension every time and i'm afraid i might damage my engine eventually.
been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
View 11 RepliesSo it was like -10 here today, and I've had a coolant leak which could be the crack pipe? It's coming from the center of the motor and covering the oil filter housing. Anyway I've been adding distilled water until I could get coolant. So today I went out and the coolant reservoir was slushy ice. So I open the drain and drained a bunch out then added some coolant while it was draining to work along with running the engine a short time with the drain open and that got it flowing out. So I drained just about all fluid and put the half gallon I had leftover of g13 . Tomorrow I will go get more coolant. So the question is did I ruin my motor? Crack the block or heads? Should I fill the rest with 50/50 mix? When I ran the car it held operating temp just fine but the fan wasn't blowing warm.
View 4 Replies