So when turning the key there is no response or noises coming from the vehicle. The battery shows 12.3 volts. What are possible problems? We were also having new issues yesterday with the vehicle not getting enough power after getting dusted with snow repeatedly in a snow storm and from passing vehicles.
View 14 RepliesMy brake pedal is sticking down every time I push it in. I tried replacing the spring that was in there with a stronger one and sprayed the whole unit down with an all purpose silicon lubricant. It seemed to work a little but the problem is far from solved. It seems like it is sticking somewhere further away from the pedal. Master Cylinder maybe? I selected Tacoma because it's the closest option to my truck, but it's actually a 77 pickup/hilux.
View 4 RepliesSometimes when putting the vehicle into first it's almost impossible to get it to go into gear. Sometimes it's super smooth. Also when putting into reverse we hear a loud clunk. That one is most of the time but sometimes it goes in smooth. I was doing some looking around at the pedals because I think I am going to have to replace my master cylinder and noticed that on the inside of the vehicle where the clutch master cylinder comes into the vehicle it's leaking black fluid. Does that automatically mean my clutch master cylinder needs to be changed? Could this be the cause of it being difficult to shift because the clutch isn't fully disengaging?
View 11 RepliesI got in my 1977 f150 V8 windsor the other day and headed down the road. All of a sudden I started to hear this sound that only way I can describe it is a big log chain moving around or a box of washers being moved around. I got out, popped the hood and thought at first that it was a pulley somewhere on the front of the engine, perhaps water pump pulley or something like that. The closer I got my ear to engine though I think it is coming from the back passenger side of the engine, not the front. I could be wrong about that, but I do know it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it will go away for 1/4 of a mile and then come back. I also noticed that it gets faster when I give it gas and slower when I don't, which is why I was thinking it had to be one of the pulleys going bad. I'm not so sure though because I think it may be coming from the passenger back part of the engine.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 Odyssey, 120,000 miles that has really been trouble free. Last year, while on vacation, the alternator went out, and it was replaced. Since that time, maybe a coincidence, I have had episodes where when I turn the key to start up, there is no response. The dash lights come on, but the engine does not even act like it wants to start. I turn the key a few more times, then the engine starts without a hesitation. This went on a few times before I took it in to the dealer. Of course, it did not have a problem starting there, so they checked the battery, and the battery cables. For the past year this has gone on very sporadically. It may go a month between episodes, or it may happen 3-4 times in a week, or even a day. Every time though, it will eventually start. Over the past year we have eventually replaced the battery, and one time we thought the problem was solved when the starter went out. However, the problem continues.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 Durango 5.2L V8. The radio all of a sudden will turn on and off but won't do anything else. Not one of the buttons on the console responds except the on off button. Can this possibly be a fuse or is the radio itself just shot?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 Sentra XE 1.6 / Automatic, and having problems starting it.(Once in a while).. When I try starting, I turn the ignition all the way to start but there's no response. All the light on the dashboard panel is all lit up but nothing happens, no sound at all. I've changed the Neutral switch, the Starter, and Ignition relay(Grey square) which is located at the fuse box engine side.... sometimes it will start and the car runs fine...smooth as a whistle... then when I re-start it again, the same problem occurs...I have to wait for about an hour or so, then when I try starting it again, it will start... I'm afraid to drive the car on a long trip, I'm afraid it might not start at all.. What to do next.. by the way, the car battery is good...
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 Sentra XE 1.6 Lit. Automatic and having problems starting it.(Once in a while).. When I try starting, I turn the ignition all the way to start but there's no response. All the light on the dashboard panel is all lit up but nothing happens, no sound at all. I've changed the Neutral switch, the Starter, and Ignition relay(Grey square) which is located at the fuse box engine side.... sometimes it will start and the car runs fine...smooth as a whistle... then when I re-start it again, the same problem occurs...I have to wait for about an hour or so, then when I try starting it again, it will start...I'm confused and it's driving me crazy. I'm afraid to drive the car on a long trip, I'm afraid it might not start at all.. What to do next.. by the way, the car battery is good...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f150. Its having a fuel problem i was driving and my truck just cut out on me. I have diag it as the fuel pump cause when I turn the key, I have no response from my pump.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Camry. About 10 months ago, when I get a transmission fluid change, the mechanic told me that my power steering fluid is dirty. A few month later, in the cold winter month, my steering wheel make loud screeching noise when the engine is cold only. The mechanic told me that I have a small power steering leak. But since I don't see the power steering fluid level goes down and the mechanic say I don't have to fix it now, I didn't do anything about it.
About a month ago, there is a squeaking noise come from my steering wheel every time I drive very slowly out of (or into) my driveway and turning the wheel. Now I heard the noise when I drive slowly (10 mph) and turning the wheel too. So what is the problem that cause the noise when I turn the wheel at slow speed? I only drive about 5k miles a year. Is it safe if I just continue to ignore the problem?
Also, the color of my current power steering fluid is amber, but a little dark. Which power steering fluid should I buy?
2000 Corolla - "growling" noise on the passenger side of the engine / stops when I turn the steering wheel - no loss of PS fluid (I also flushed the system) - which bearing(s) might be bad...?
View 2 RepliesMy wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
View 7 RepliesHave an issue on my 244 .1977 model. Sometimes the car won't kick over. The ignition seems ok but no starter....then after a while it will kick over and can't seem to find the problem. I'm pretty sure it's a connection issues somewhere but looking at the manual, there is a start inhibitor which I want to check but I'm not sure where all these are under the bonnet...the manual doesn't give any location.
View 3 RepliesWhen I drive my 1977 MG Midget, the headlamps dim, then brighten, then dim, then brighten...constantly. Dashboard lights appear to do the same. I have had no troubles starting the car since it was retrieved from storage in April. What might be causing this?
View 16 RepliesMy Porsche is backfiring & popping when it has heated up while driving. What could this be? I took it to a Porsche repair shop where the guy changed the Perma-Tune Box and replaced the coil and charge me over $1400.00 and the car is still doing the same thing. Could this be a tune up problem?
View 4 RepliesI decided to do some work on the engine bay of my '77 Datsun 280Z. I would like to know whether it is possible to remove the vacuum lines from the system, and if so, what would be the effect on the AC system? If I understand it correctly, the AC selector and mode doors are mechanically operated and vacuum lines assist in opening (i) the air intake door and (ii) the mode door?
View 10 Replies77 Celica GT Liftback, 20R, 250K original miles. Alternator light recently illuminated. Checked battery connections / full charge, replaced alternator rebuilt, replaced voltage regulator new after market. Checked fuses. Alternator light remains illuminated. Had Charging system checked at Autozone - all checks out OK, yet light remains illuminated. Checked drop on charging system with voltmeter and alternator appears to be handling the load when electrical turned on. Checked / cleaned connections at regulator / alternator - alt light remains illuminated. Why the light will not turn out?
View 4 RepliesI just changed my 77 truck over to a Serpentine belt set up and used parts from a 90 F150. I didn't flush the system, but I did replace the drier and added oil the way that was suggested in another thread (by measuring what came out of the York). I pulled a vacuum for 40 minutes then let it sit for 30 minutes and it held just fine, so I went ahead and started charging the system. My pressures seem to be right with the low side about 50 and high side 175 with it about 85^ outside.
The air isn't blowing very cold, it's more cool, and the low side fitting doesn't feel cool to the touch the way it did when I had the York compressor on there. So I'm confused and wondering if the compressor I took off the 90 is bad. One thing I noticed is when I shut the truck off was that the pressures equalized almost instantly, when the York was on there it took it a while for the pressures to equalize. Is this a clue that the compressor is bad or is that how newer one's work?
I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
I have a 77 F100 2wd 302/c4. I recently replaced the rear plate to my gauge cluster after it crumbled to pieces. I swapped all the gauges to the new plate minus the fuel gauge since it decided it couldn't live if livin was without the old plate. I have a gauge cluster out of my 75 and decided to swap in my fuel gauge from that one. I put the cluster in the truck and fire it up for 10 mins or so and everything is working great except the temp gauge isn't moving. I figure it romeo and Juliet with the fuel gauge so I just swap all gauges from the 75 into the 77 cluster except the speedo. Same result.
So I figure its the sending unit now and maybe both gauges were fine to begin with. I put in a new sending unit and now the gauges works but the needle sits on the P in the word TEMP on the gauge which makes me uncomfortable. That's about 1/4 inch or so from being past the end of the gauge. I don't believe the truck is running that hot. The gauge was more or less straight vertical before the swap sitting right at the end of the E on TEMP. Did I get a bad sending unit? Is it a bad ground on the gauge? Was I supposed to take off the teflon tape that came on the threads of the sending unit? I'm gonna try removing that first and see if it lowers the needle.
The battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?