Town Car :: Starts And Dies Within 3 To 4 Seconds After Sitting Idle For A Week
Sep 18, 2012
Went to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
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I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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2002 T&C, starts and idles fine. When we put in gear (drive or reverse) it dies. Then we can restart and it drives fine the rest of the day. This only happens when it has been sitting a long time, such as over night. However, I've let it sit until mid-day and it does it so it doesn't appear to be Temp or humidity related as it issue is repeatable at any time of the day as long as the vehicle has been sitting 12 hours or so.
The remainder of the day it drives without issue and we can restart 8-10 times during the day without issue, then the next day when we restart it, no matter how long it idles it cuts out when you first start to move and apply the gas. When you restart, it, it often doesn't happen again and I've never had to restart more than twice. Again, it runs fine other than this issue.
I've replaced the fuel filter and I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure is within specs. I also watched the gauge as my wife backed the vehicle up and it died, but the fuel pressure didn't drop out. It is now showing a O2 Sensor code per Advance, but in reading other post, those can be misleading, so I wanted input before I just start throwing money at the problem
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I have a 2005 town and country that was running fine and when my wife picked me up today and was waiting idle it died. She didn't try to start it right away and when I got out there tried to start it and it fired then died and now it won't fire at all. It turns over fine but just won't fire.
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I've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
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So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
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I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
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2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
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I am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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2010 Corolla set for a week I went to use it and it would not start it would turn over but not start. I don't think it was the battery because it would chug for a few seconds miss/hiccup then die after trying 8 times it finally started you could smell fuel and the rpms where at 2000 but went back down after it warmed up.
After it started I had the check engine light, vsc off and slip indicator light on when I parked the car I had no issues.
How can this happen by setting for a week in a garage? There's no animals to chew on anything. In the past the car has been hard to start if it set for a week similar to what happened today but never as bad and no check engine lights.
I turned the car off and on and now it starts fine and seems to run ok but all 3 lights are still on. The oxygen sensor on bank 1 was replaced almost a year ago.
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'02 Ranger XLT, extended cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC, 5-speed manual, 114K miles.
Problem has occurred twice. After extended run time and engine fully heated, when I get home and shut it down, then attempt to restart within a short period of time, the engine starts very briefly, then begins shuddering violently and dies within a few seconds. Re-attempts to start result in a very shuddering attempt to run for a couple seconds, and then it dies. After a couple of re-attempts, it doesn't even attempt to start; just cranks over with no results. Has to sit about 7-8 hours before it will restart.
No OBD II codes; Passed, no codes shown. I purchased a crank position sensor, but haven't installed it yet: just a stab in the dark after hearing other people's experiences with other vehicles.
First occurrence followed a lengthy trip in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Shut it down when I got home, then attempted to re-start after a few minutes to run a short errand. Sat for two days without any re-attempts; then restarted and ran fine on first try a couple days later.
Second occurrence followed a couple hours of hitting yard sales with the neighbor, in which time I did not shut the truck down; just left it idling while we perused the sales, for fear it wouldn't re-start. Reckon it's a good thing I did, 'cause when we got home and I shut it down and attempted to leave again shortly thereafter, it malfunctioned as described.
Retries failed after sitting 4-5 hours, but after eleven hours of sitting, it started right up and ran normally.
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So the car just went off warranty like 1000km ago. Last week I left it sitting in my driveway while I was out of town for a week. I just started it and the CEL blinked for a few seconds and then went solid.
Other than sounding cold (it's canada and there were three snow storms while I was gone) the car runs fine. I shut it off... restarted and again, blinking CEL and then to solid.
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I bought a 2012 GTI with 6-speed manual two weeks ago. It has ~42k miles and it has been running great for the past 2 weeks until tonight. Went with my wife and son to the store and then the problems started. We got in the car to leave, it started fine, but died suddenly a few seconds later at idle when we were trying to get my son buckled in. I thought maybe I did something odd and it was me, so I turned the key off and tried to start again. It was a rough start(took a second) then idled roughly under 1k rpm and died shortly after. I tried one more time, same thing. There were no CELs at all, just the battery light after it died like normal.
At this point I'm thinking it may be that the timing chain tensioner gave out and that's the problem, so I decide to get a ride back to the house for my laptop and Vag-Com before trying to start or run it anymore. I get a ride, grab those, and head back to the car. When I get back in the car I realized my laptop battery was dead, so I decided to try to start it one more time. This time is starts just fine and I'm able to drive home without any trouble at all. No hick-ups, no stalls, no low-idle or anything. I was able to run the Vag-Com Auto Scan on my other laptop at the house and will have the readout below.
The only code thrown was on the immobilizer at 69157km which would have been when I had a replacement key cut and coded at the dealership I bought it from(a local VW dealer). I ran this scan with the key on but engine off and after realizing it wasn't giving me any codes at all I decided to run the scan with the engine running. Well, when I tried to start the car to run the scan, it died on me at idle again. So I left the key on(after the car died) and ran the scan and got the same results as below. I was then again able to start the car and drive it around the block and then park with it idling without any problems at all.
I don't understand this at all. The car has been running perfectly until now for as long as I've had it. I just changed the oil and filter this past weekend for Mobil 1 0w50 and OEM filter. And I've only run 93 octane in it, which it currently has a 7/8 full tank. I'll be calling/going by the dealership tomorrow to try and sort this out.
- I just ran VCDS data logging on the fuel system while trying to start my car just now (after sitting for ~30 minutes)
- While running I watched 106 Fuel Rail Pressure - Actual drop from ~40bar down to 6.5bar
- I was able to tap the accelerator peddle and it jumped back up to ~40bar
- After evening back out and not stalling again, I ran Autoscan and came up with:
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 000 - Too Low - Intermittent
I went ahead and ordered a new fuel pump and seal and received them this afternoon. I've already replaced the pump and have driven around a good bit this afternoon to test things. One of the big things I've noticed is that even though I still have the rear seat bottom out of the car, I can barely hear the new pump, where as the old one was noticeable. I'll update again if I run into any other issues.
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So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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I've been having some issues with my mk4 R32. Right now i'm leaning toward changing the fuel pump and filter but i want to be sure before i do.....
Problem: I've been daily driving my r32 to work for the past couple weeks and about once a week it will start, idle for a couple seconds and then just bog out and die. no codes, just idle, then chugging and dying. it will fire with some starter fluid and will sometimes hold a very sickly idle but most the time will just run the starter fluid out. the weird thing is is that it's intermittent and will happen randomly and if i leave it overnight or sitting for a couple hours it will fire up like nothing was wrong. i just wanted some input on what it might be before i replace the pump. i have already done the relay so its not that.... the only code that it has ever thrown while i have owned it was for the intake changeover valve (N156) which i cleared and it hasnt yet to come up again.....
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