Town Car :: Buzzing Sound Under Hood - Can Idle Air Control Valve Be Cleaned?
Jan 12, 2014
I have been getting a buzzing sound under my hood, usually in cold weather that lasts a few seconds, happens after I go about 1-2 miles from my house, did online research and it might be my IAC valve getting internally dirty.
Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?
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For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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I recently replaced the fuel pump and afterward started noticing a buzzing/whining sound coming from under the hood. The noise goes away when I remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and after the car has been driven for 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes it comes back, sometime not, but it always is there at a cold start. Had the shop take a look and they said the fuel pump is ok and recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I did but that but it did not solve it. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure. 2000 Silverado 5.3L ...
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I'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
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The truck was running great besides a little black smoke on WOT and a little jerk while towing. No codes at all. I pulled the EGR valve and got it all cleaned up and reinstalled. I also had time to pull the MAP hose and clean it. I pulled the nipple out of the intake and cleaned it also. I didn't unplug the sensor, just cleaned the hose. Now I am getting an engine light, the MAP gauge reads 2.9, and my turbo gauge is at 22.4 at idle. The truck isn't running right. What should I try first? I don't see what I could have done wrong but this is a pain.
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I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
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After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
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My dodge neon started to accelerate by its self and stays accelerated. My brakes can barely stop it. The check engine light is on. And it says it is a pinched solenoid sensor for the emissions. But to my knowledge that won't cause my car to accelerate like crazy and remain accelerated to 40mp and remains there.
I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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What is the location of the idle air control valve by telling me where its at or a picture location?
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My wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS with approx 60,000 miles. Recently, without fail, a buzzing sound occurs when changing the vent control knob from floor to vent and vice versa. The sound lasts for about 2 seconds and sounds like it may be coming from the area behind the steering column. All the climate control systems work fine and the buzzing noise only occurs when changing the vent setting. At this point it is just a nuisance as everything seems to be working fine, but in my searching of the forums can not seem to pinpoint what the issue may be.
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
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I recently cleaned the throttle body and now it surges up and down. Not really sure what to check next. 2002 toyota camry 4 cyl.
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OK, car has 94K miles, never had anything done to it, and the timing belt stripped out a bunch of teeth and bent the valves, you know the usual deal.
Pulled the engine apart, and order a head gasket set and scored a low miles head from a salvage yard. I was told the engine it came from was running fine but had a damaged timing cover so they parted out the engine, when i got the head the timing belt gear was bent and cracked, but i couldn't see any other damage and all looked good so i put it all in, and after having some trouble getting good info on where the timing marks are suppose to go i got it all back together and went to fire it up, start and die a couple times, i figured it was the fuel system re-priming itself, car starts and is running rough, i give it a few small revs and above about 2K it seems to run fine, but has def misfires at idle.
While i was looking around the engine bay checking over stuff i can hear a definite buzzing sound coming from the injectors, which i can tell you isn't normal, and is causing my problem i believe. The injector plugs are pretty straight forward, so im pretty sure i have them in the right spots.
The CEL came on, and i plugged in my code reader but was unable to connect to the ECM for some reason. Are these cars can bus?
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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After engine is up to temperature the engine has a buzzing/whining sound just at idle. Pick up rpms and its gone. They thought it was comeing from the oil filter and changed the filter and it disappeared for a while but its back again.
Very hard to pinpoint the sound even with a styphiscope. Going back to dealer.
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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I have a 2001 1.8t tip wagon(75k) that that is starting to worry me. It makes a tapping sound (coming from back of valve cover) AFTER it is warmed up at idle. When the RPMs go over 1,000, the sound goes away. Is this the cam chain adjuster or tensioner??? Also, when the engine first starts up it makes a similar noise , only louder, for the first couple of seconds.
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