Town Car :: 99 TC - Fan Will Not Come On At Any Speed In Manual Unless System Set On Auto
Jun 12, 2013
I have a 1999 TC that has an intermittent blower problem.
1. The fan will not come on at any speed in manual unless the system is in AUTO )see #2)
2. When the system is in AUTO it only work intermittently, meaning that sometimes the system works (AC & heat) in AUTO and sometimes not. No real logic to it. When the system decides to work it works fine but only in auto. When the AUTO IS working the manual blower fan operation will still not work.
3. I tried running the diagnostics test but got no codes.
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I am wanting to turn my trans from auto to manual. how would i do that, what do i need?
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I am planning a swap in an Excursion from the automatic to the manual transmission.
How will I need to modify the wiring harness to make sure everything still works?
Things I can think of that will need addressed:
Harness for the brakes (Neutral Safety Switch?)
Harness for the clutch pedal
Cruise control harness differences?
Back up switch wiring?
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I have a 2006 Scion XB I purchased last year. Last week the air was blowing cold in town and then blowing warm at highway speed. I took it to my mechanic who charged the system (said it was a pound low) and said he did not detect any leaks. Now suddenly it stops blowing cold altogether. Not all the time. It blows cold in the morning. Then in the afternoon when I leave work it blows hot. But I can stop the car a few miles down the road, turn the car off, start it back up, and it blows cold....
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My 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
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I know this is going to sounds lame, my wife can't turn them, they have cover over it that has to be unscrewed to get at 'em. It would be nice to shift in and out "on the fly" as weather condition change.
Is it a difficult change?
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I have been noticing this problem more frequently. It's been about 2 months that I noticed the car is doing this.
I would typically touch the door handle to lock the car, (hear the beep) and sometimes I use the remote at a distance to make sure I did not forget to lock it. But after I return to the car, I usually go to the trunk, to put away my briefcase, (without pressing any button). After closing the trunk, and going to the driver side passenger door(its unlocked) (no beeping sound or anything)
I have made sure several times (clicking the button several times) that I indeed locked the car. but it's unlocked. I have tested the auto lock feature on my car (locking, then unlocking without opening doors, yes it automatically locks the doors after 60 seconds).
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Planning on buying an Impreza soon. Was at first thinking about the manual, but then saw that the mpg for stick was 2 miles less than that of CVT. Is the sacrifice in mpg worth the manual transmission?
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My 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
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I have a 1.8 Jetta and I realized yesterday that my first gear won't turn on what could be the problem..
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I am in the nasty position of having to remove my 6-spd manual transmission to investigate the nasty whine in it. The dealer says $2300 to fix it and the parts are $100, so I am going to do it myself. I have been unable to find a repair manual yet for the 2010 Camry and I was wondering for step by step for removal of the tranny. I don't need a lot of detail, but it is nice to know the order in broad strokes.
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2004 Jetta 1.8T w/5 speed manual transmission. Bought the car this way, mostly for a parts car, but everything else runs and drives good, so if it wasn't for this issue it would be a decent driver.
Won't/can't select first gear. Seems like there is no "spot" for first, or that the shift mechanism has no where to go., locked out. All the rest of the gear selections work perfectly. Tried the cable adjust ritual, but it was fine-as I suspected. The shift assembly works/moves perfectly from the tranny end and the shift lever end. Not a synchro, it won't go in stopped, moving, running or shut off.
So, what's the probable best guess or best way to come to a diagnosis? Shift tower parts broken somewhere, or something like a shifting fork bent broken? Seems like if it was internal there would be other gear selections that would be affected. Any links to some diagrams?
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So ive been having issues with my trans 6 speed manual making noise and took it to the dealer. They more or less told me the trans is done, something with the linkage, need a new trans and clutch. They also told me my warranty was void because there was indication of a cold air intake before i bought the car and have reason to believe it's due to abuse. I've only driven this car 3,000 miles and have taken care not to beat or sport shift the car to avoid this very problem. I can't argue the fact that the previous owner could have very well driven the car hard and the problem might have been a ticking time bomb. I guess my best bet is to find a used trans and install myself but really dont know where to start.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix. I want to change my manual transmission fluid in it. I have called dealerships and auto parts stores and keep getting different answers. I was wondering exactly what kind of fluid do I use and how much fluid do I use. I am not going to pay $219 for the dealership to do it but I want to make sure I put in the right kind and the right amount.
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My car is down for the count until I can get this drive shaft back in.
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I have a 2000 F350, Turbo diesel with 223 000 miles. 6 speed manual transmission will not shift into reverse or low.
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My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
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