Town Car :: 1997 Town Car - Reset Actuator?
Feb 21, 2008
My 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
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I have a 1997 Lincoln towncar with the air suspension. After parked for overnight I found the car sagging in the rear so I thought a air bag went out so I thought I would take it in to get fixed but the next few nights nothing happen the car stayed level then the next night it went down then the next few nights it stays level.
I took it to the dealer and they told me they see nothing wrong and kept it over night and it did not go down. It is like a roll of the dice if it stays level or goes down. I sprayed the air bags and the lines to them with soap water to see if I could find any leaks but I did not see anything.
The compressor is buried so unless I know that is the problem I am not going to rip everything apart to not find a leak or is that where I should be starting. If the car is running everything stays level and no light is on. I do not want coils in the car I like the air suspension.
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I replaced the Air shocks with regular springs from a conversion kit I purchased on EBAY. The instructions to disable the "Check Air Suspension" light were included in the kit. I followed these instructions without success. I disconnected pin #11 from the wire harness under the dash, behind the glove box. I then telephones the company and was told to cut the black wire to the air compressor under the hood - below the air filter canister. How do I TURN OFF THIS LIGHT? I own a 1997 Lincoln Town Car signature.
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I get two codes both p0325....
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I replaced my upper radiator hose on my 2000 vintage TC 4.6 liter V-8 yesterday and normally I would add coolant through the top radiator cap and not the overflow reservoir.
Apparently this car does not have a radiator cap and has only the overflow reservoir tank to add anti-freeze. Checked the owner's manual and my Lincoln repair book, they just said to use the reservoir tank. While I did not loose or have to add much, what if I had to replace the lower hose, or the radiator itself with all that coolant gone?
In other words while I am waiting for the overflow tank to add anti-freeze while the engine is running, I am operating a car with out enough or no liquid at all which seems nuts, is there some technique that I don't know about to add anti-freeze?
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My neighbor asked me to look at her "car". The car is around a '92. After taking the column apart, I found the problem. The PLASTIC piece connecting the ignition switch to the ignition box broke. I would like to know the name of that part, and anywhere one can be found(new). I know I probably have to remove the steering wheel, and of course, the ignition switch.
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When it gets cold (about 40 Fahrenheit or less) and I drive the car after it hasn't been driven for a few hours, the temp gauge goes way up and there's no heat. But after a little while I can rev the engine hard and the temp drops and the heat starts blowing warm. The radiator is full with pretty much 100% antifreeze.
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The AC clutch on my 2000 Town Car has an intermittent engagement, when the AC is on you can see it clicking into position where it will hold ok for a few seconds, and then it disengages, and so on and so on. The AC puts out cool air and I checked the pressure connecting up to the low side port with a gauge yesterday. Plenty of Freon in the system. Right now I am operating on "vent" to keep the car inside cool.
The sales man who sold me the Lincoln thought it was low on refrigeration, but I thought it was the clutch. Could it be a wiring issue, or a faulty switch? Ironically the small Ford wagon with a 4 cylinder engine I almost bought the previous day had the exact same problem, and both of them had around 102,000 miles. So it is something that all Ford products can have.
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I own a 93 with 193k miles, and recently I've noticed at speeds 30 mph and above the car will sway when going through a curve, the higher the speed the more difficult it is to keep under control.
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I have a 94 lincoln towncar and the air suspension is not turning on and I am dragging over the smallest bumps. I have checked the fuse on the main fuses but it is fine.
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I recently purchased a 2002 Lincoln Town Car with 204,000 miles but it runs like a champ. The Problem Is It burns too much gas i filled the tank up and2 days later I'm at a 1/4 tank without driving very much. My fuel economy states that i'm getting 8.5 miles a gallon this number goes up and down. I changed the oil and air filter still having the same problem. I need to know what I can Do to fix this I have heard the plugs and possibly the coils but I would like to know if there is more or perhaps something else I will be doing the work mostly myself.
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1995 lincoln lights blink not completely off just flashes.
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I have a 1999 TC that has an intermittent blower problem.
1. The fan will not come on at any speed in manual unless the system is in AUTO )see #2)
2. When the system is in AUTO it only work intermittently, meaning that sometimes the system works (AC & heat) in AUTO and sometimes not. No real logic to it. When the system decides to work it works fine but only in auto. When the AUTO IS working the manual blower fan operation will still not work.
3. I tried running the diagnostics test but got no codes.
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Gears won't shift from park. What's wrong? Is it the neutral safety switch?
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I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
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Is it common for the batteries to die if the car sits for extended periods? I just got this car and was told they disconnected the radio to keep from killing the battery. This car belonged to a school that drove it maybe once a month. I put a new battery in 2 months ago but just replaced the fuel pump yesterday and drove it home. However the battery had died sitting for the last 2 months and needed to be charged. I want to re-connect the radio. I took this car on a trade for some work I did and plan to re-sell it.
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I have a 99 Town car and have problems starting when it is cold (under 20 degrees). The engine cranks. If I jump it it will start after about 30 cranks then it runs fine. Looks like a lot of carbon being blown out the tail pipe. When it is warmed up it starts fine and runs fine, just won't start early in the morning when it is 10 degrees outside.
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I have a 2005 Town Car with 40 K Miles.
Engine runs rough at most slow rpm's .
No codes and I change : new sparks plugs / new Fuel Filter / new air filter /
New oil / new ATF / good MPG , everything good but runs to rough.
Have an 94 LTC and this car runs better.
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My 2006 Prius used to get GREAt gas mileage - 48 mpg around town and 55 mpg on the highway. Recently and all of a sudden, my mpg's have taken a nose dive. I now get 35 mpg! When I'm on the highway, I barely get 44 mpg. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything so they are insistant that it's my driving, oxygenated gas and/or my tire pressure (even though they didn't check the tire pressure).
My driving hasn't changed; my friend with a 2004 Prius buys her gas at the same station and she's still getting ~48 mpg so I'm thinking it's not the gas; and I am OCD about keeping my pressure constant. (I own a compressor and check the tire pressure A LOT.) I drive 5 miles to work - about 15-20 minutes - on relatively level paved roads. About 2-3 times a week I travel longer distances at highway speed. I wash and wax the car fairly regularly to reduce wind drag. I have noticed periodically when I'm coasting downhill, my mpg's are less than 20 mpg so I'm thinking something's terribly wrong.
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When I go to unlock my doors on 2006 TC I push the switch and all locks come up, however, the rear doors are not unlocking all the way. The only way I can get the doors to unlock is to pull up on the knob as I push the switch at the same time and the doors will unlock and become funtional. Where is the problem?
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I have a 1989 towncar. The blower motor works in any selection (vent, panel, hi-low, mix, defrost) but does not work in the "floor" position. It also turns off in the off position as it should.
I changed out the entire climate control assembly with another one from a junkyard. I thought the function selector electrical switch might be bad. However, the blower motor still does not work.
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