So I drive a 2003 VW Touareg....and the other day while driving, felt this strange vibration when accelerating over 10mph. The dealership said it was an $1800 repair and diagnosed it as the drive shaft.
View 2 Replies2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
View 1 RepliesI had the universal joints replaced on my 1999 Ford Ranger now it vibrates badly starting at 45 mph and when I coast at 65 mph the vibration is very significant. The mechanic does not know what is causing this. I never had this problem before changing the U-Joints and I have 171,000 miles on the truck.
View 4 Replies2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
View 1 RepliesWhile rotating the tires I've noticed heavy rusting on the flanges that the wheels are bolted to, in fact the rear ones were stuck to the flanges. It looks like the VW logo on the wheels is not hermetically sealing the area and water/salt get in and create a rust heaven.
View 16 RepliesI have a vibration starting at 60mph. Its slight but there. I crawled under and found a very shiny rectangle of metal. Safe to assume I flung a shaft weight? It drives perfect around town just at freeway speeds.
View 14 RepliesI test drove an 08 VR6 Touareg 2 this evening. Felt quite nice though I even with the upgraded V6, I found myself stomping on the gas on the freeway to overtake compared to my 05 V8.
Anyway, what I wanted to post about was a vibration type noise occuring just around 2500rpm in 2nd and 3rd (and possibly others) when accelerating. At first, I thought it might be something in the muffler, but I wound down the windows and it didn't seem to be coming from the outside.
Note that the sound was not any kind of throaty roar - it sounded like something was loose/vibrating. Hopefully this is limited to the particular example that I drove?
I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesI recently changed my sway bar bushings when I jacked the car I notice oil is leaking because the shaft is all wet. My question is it an easy Job or will it cost and is it something that's hurtful to the car if I don't fix asap...
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1997 Dodge Ram with 150k miles. I was driving down the Parkway today and the drive shaft fell out of the rear differential. Is this a major problem? Can this be easily bolted back on or is this the end of my truck? Or something in between? I have no clue where I stand.
View 19 RepliesWhat are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
View 2 RepliesHad the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
I've managed to remove 95% of my driver's side drive shaft but can't for the life of me remove the spline from the transmission. I cut the boot so all there is is the cup with the spline plugged into the gear box. I've pried and pried with a screwdriver and drove a chisel with a hammer in between the cup (not sure the proper term for it) and it wouldn't budge. I'm going to try and track down a puller that will work on this car but that might take days or weeks. I have to work tomorrow night so my question: Will it do any harm to the transmission or be unsafe to drive with only one drive shaft?
View 19 RepliesFrom what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
View 9 RepliesMy 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
View 6 RepliesFound some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 and a while back I had to replace a drive shaft. After replacing it my car goes into limp mode and I get a different random code every time. The car seems to run fine when it is cold but after it warms up it will go into limp mode randomly. If I cost to a stop and shut down the car and wait a while to restart it runs fine. I've tried and researched just about everything thing.
View 6 RepliesSo I own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS 2.7. I am the fourth owner and currently there is 168k miles on the vehicle. I purchased the car with around 110k miles on it and have had it for nearly 5 years now.
Aside from general maintenance I have never had a single issue with it, until last weekend. On the way back home from a road trip I began to notice a whining sound, and then very abruptly the car shook and I lost control of the vehicle and had to pull over on the shoulder. I was on the highway and was VERY fortunate to not have gotten into an accident.
After inspecting carefully I discovered my 4WD Drive Shaft was literally hanging by a thread. The knuckles were ruined, and in the process my Transfer Case and Exhaust System were all severely damaged.
so my r32 recently started making a nasty popping noise. the sound seems to either be coming from something in the rear end or drive shaft. not sure why it happened. i went on a 2 hour trip. got there parked it. aired it down (bags) but then when i came back and when to drive it again. it all of a sudden it started making a horrible popping noise. i thought it was the front wheel bearing going out since i knew it need to be replaced but i did that today and its still making the noise.
The noise sound just like a RWD car with a welded diff when it turns. kinda has that locked rear end hop popping noise. i lifted the whole car off the ground and put it in first to let the tires spin in the air but of course theres no weight on them so it doesn't make any noise. i'm really stumped on what it could be. im going to take the driveshaft off and see if it still dose it. then i know its for sure in the rear end. What it could be?
I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
View 6 RepliesI am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
View 5 Replies