04 Touareg VR6 7k miles. Noticed a slight engine knock when driving very slowly such as through a parking lot when you vary engine speed between 1500 and 2000 rpm? You can not hear it if when the window is down, or radio is on, it has to be very quiet. I think it may have been here all along and I just never happened to be idling around with no radio.
View 2 RepliesI was cruising the parking lot going around 5 miles an hour and all the sudden I felt a big jolt like somebody rear ended it me. I look back and nobody was there. It was the car down shift dramatically that scared me. That was weird. I know what it feels like down shifting in S mode but it was never felt like this.
View 3 RepliesMy 2011 Camry LE I4 with 21k miles has a slight knock after cold startup, at Idle for a few minutes that disappears after warming up. If you start and drive and don't let it warm up the knock, under load, is more pronounced.
View 3 RepliesHave a 2006 Sonata GLS with a 2.4 mileage has rolled over 207k .... I started hearing a slight ticking noise from the top of my engine and it has slowly gotten louder, now it can be heard inside the vehicle and more so when revving the engine...it also has 2 stored codes P0011 and P0456, I'm not too concerned with the evap code at the moment, I have decided to replace the oil control valve and clean or replace the lash adjusters...here is my problem, I have mechanic experience but only on Honda, all the youtube videos I have found for valve lash adjustment or replacement are for Mitsubishi and chevy engines, so I am not sure what the adjusters actually look like on this engine and if I can even do them without removing the timing chain.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Mitsubishi Diamante that I have owned since 2008 purchased it with 60,000 miles on it. Currently has 131,000 miles. I have always kept my car in good running condition and performed all of the scheduled maintenance per the owners manual. Last month I noticed a slight cold knock on the right side of the engine that would go away when the engine warmed up. I checked the oil and noticed that it was a little bit low (maybe half a cm below the lower threshold on the dip stick). I added oil and continued to drive it, still knocking.
Bought some sea foam thinking it was the lifters and sprayed a can in the intake and poured some in the oil. Then changed oil with 5w-30 synthetic, have been driving it for about 500 miles now and the cold knock seems to be getting worse and I can faintly smell burning oil when it is idling as I let it warm up before driving off. By the time I get to work the knock is essentially gone. My oil levels have been fine... My question is, should I be explaining to my wife and fiscally responsible self, that I need to be looking for a new (read used) truck sooner than I had initially planned? Or, is this something that can/should be addressed or just drive it until it gives out...
I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L and noticed the engine would jerk really bad. It felt like the engine was going to jump out of the vehicle. I notice it does it when I turn it on in the morning and when I am driving slowly out my lane way the engine jerks. I have dealt with this problem since last year and they have already replaced the transmission which has done nothing. I took it back to the dealership and the service manager told me that he has already had 4 of the same vehicles come in with the same problem and they realized that they had to re-set the computer in the engine so that the transmission computer and the engine computer are on the same page that they talk to each other so to speak. Since they re-set the computer we have had the vehicle back a week today and this morning the car jerked again. I am tired of constantly taking this vehicle in and being told they have a solution and then it is not fixed. How am I supposed to sell a vehicle to someone when it feels like you are being lifted out of your seat because of the JERKING!!!!!
View 14 RepliesI installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
View 2 RepliesOur 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
View 1 RepliesI was driving slowly with cruise control on when the check engine light came on, a few restarts and it still didn't go away. All fluid levels are OK, no other errors show up on start-up or driving and the car drives fine on both ICE and EV modes.
I'm bringing the car in first thing tomorrow. I called my usual Lexus guy and he didn't know what the problem could be either. I'm a bit freaked out, to be honest. Wish I had an OBD dongle to use with Carista.
My second gen prius has slight miss/knock at startup. Done 35000 km. Doing around 19Km/Ltr. No other problem.
Any need for tuning, plug checking, needed at this stage?
I bought my sonata with about 48,XXX miles about 2 months ago, and now it has 52,500 (im a student - dont drive much). Anyways, whenever i start my car up and drive down the road, when the car shifts in to third, i hear a slight knock. almost like a little gong - metal on metal.
Once it does it the first time, it doesnt do it anymore. Im guessing temperature could have a factor?
I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
Sometimes mine shifts nice and quick, but sometimes it also shifts soft and slowly with a slight "flare" between shifts. Seems like it shifts better the harder I drive it, but I try not to drive like that. Dealer says everything seems normal to them. Maybe it's the adaptive transmission?
View 32 RepliesMy 01 Denali is making a slight knock when I turn right or left, and I can feel it just a bit in the steering. To my knowledge nothing has even been replaced. It has 134,000 miles
View 6 RepliesBraking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
View 5 RepliesI just bought this truck yesterday. During the test drive and everything it seemed all fine. After all the paperwork and the truck was actually mine. I noticed once it is all warmed up it seems to have a slight knock/tick? and a slight miss to it. I shot a couple videos, one up underneath where it sounds like most of the noise is coming from. Could it be an exhaust leak? Or is it something internal? Like the Cam Phasers, or a rod or something!
Here is a video around the exhaust area.
Here is up underneath the truck.
My 2010 Corolla LE with 1.8L engine with auto transmission has about 37,400 miles on it. Ever since I bought it with 7k miles I notice a slight knock/ping sound when I accelerate up to 40 mph. The car is certified up to 100k.
Also, on cold starts recently, it seems to make a loud noise. Hard to describe but it's almost like something is grinding for a second or two. This does not seem to happen all the time.
I got my car in November and I just did a scan and got this code. I don't have a CEL on. I do feel a slight vibration from time to time. It's very light.
Should I clear all DTCs and then run a scan a couple of days later to see what codes I truly have? Or should I address this code?
If yes, what should I do about this code? Do I need to buy a new knock sensor or should I check the wiring first with a voltmeter?
My friend has tortured my R32 which he was supposed to buy. I had the motor replaced while i was gone as he blew it , again , dumb. I have been driving it and it has a terrible whine in the tranny I brought it to my mechanic and we took a sample to find metal shaving in my tranny.
He says the tranny is gone but I am lost on how it shifts perfect except the whine. It does this louder in the lower gears and has a slight knock at idle and disappears when I press the clutch in.
I bought a used tranny already to put in. I also if this is the case and the tranny needs replacing I was told to also do the clutch , should I go stock to save money or go with a different clutch and possibly a LW Flywheel , is it really a drastic power difference?
1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.