Touareg :: V6 Jerks Back And Forth When Started And Reversed Out
Sep 3, 2005
Our 03 V6 Touareg has had this problem for a while now and the dealer doesn't seem to be able to do anything. When first started in the morning and reversed out of the driveway the car JERKS back and forth really bad. So bad that if you're standing outside the car you can see the car rock back and forth. We use 93oct in the car. There is also hesitation during acceleration. Has done this since day 1.
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Its a 06, 80k on it, a few days start making this (thud) noise on the back, if I push the brake and let it go I heard that thud noise, like the rear deferential or the brakes, but not sure.
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I have an 04 touareg, When I start to accelerate at about 15-20 mpg, it jerks the vehicle once and again at about 40mph. What is wrong?
Another question, when I start to brake and then car jerks once at about 25-30mph, is there something wrong with my brakes?
I went to Volkswagen and they did a check and they said nothing was wrong. I still feel the jerk after the inspection.
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VW replaced my entire transmission and it still jerks into gear when downshifting to a stop or hitting the gas hard while coasting!
Also, I swear there is now binding while turning a la moteur stepper. New tranny. New rear drive shaft. Allegedly new transfer case (I cannot confirm this though). New new new programming. And still the darned thing vibrates by butt with a downshift that a Bettle with 300,000 miles on the clock would not dare make.
Any reference to the operation of the transmission and the sequencing of the various clutches and other coupling devices with respect to gear selection and engine conditions?
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I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
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Its a 2007 f150 v6. has 55,000 miles. just got her new tires for Christmas. the truck has doing this for awhile. when you use the brakes the pedal pulsates and the truck jerks back and forth. Feels like bent rotor or something. I've been doing it about a year keeps getting worse. Last year I had the rotors turned and put new pads on got a little better. But not for long continued to get worse again. So I just bought new rotors and pads and still sucks. I thought it could be a bent rim so I just rotated the tires and still no better. Where should i go from here? calipers? something in the front end loose?
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I collapsed the rear seats this morning, loaded the Treg up with stuff (nothing too heavy) and drove 200 miles. Got home, unloaded stuff and then tried to put the seats back up. The center seat belt is integrated into the passenger side 60% folding seat. But for some reason it's now "locked" as the belts do when the car is in an accident.
Since the belt is tight as it is in the lowered position, it will not allow me to lift up the back portion of the seat. After looking at it in the somewhat narrow view I have from between the floor and the lowered back rest, I can see that when I try to lift the back rest, the belt needs to slack some to allow the seat back to go all the way up. But since it catches, it only allow the seat back to raise about 6" before it's too tight to raise the seat back anymore.
I looked at the mounting bolts for the bottom portion of the belt in the space I can see and I see a 12 point star pattern bolt (not sure of proper name). With my Passat, I was able to find a suitable allen wrench that fits in the 12 point star pattern bolt that controls the back door catch for adjustment purposes. But with this one, I tried both metric and SAE and neither has a close enough match.
The belt locking mechanism allows for about 1" of belt travel before it locks. I've jiggled with the belt trying to get the mechanism to unlock so I don't have to remove the belt anchor point on the floor of the car (which I don't have the right wrench for). Anything I can do with the belt? Or do I just go after getting the right wrench and undoing the anchor to allow more belt slack to reset the belt?
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Is it possible to keep the mirror lamps on while the car is reverse? As I would assume it work for in street side parking? I read that maybe switching the lights to LEDS might work. Is this true?
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I have searched and can't find how to fix this. All of my contacts came into my phone book reversed. My phone would show "John Doe" and my car shows the contact as "Doe John". How it can be fixed?
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My 03 camry is a four cylinder and has 156xxx miles.
The first issue started with every time I reversed, I would hear a simple clicking noise on the passenger side. Not much of a problem at first, but later it started getting much louder to the point of a loud "THUD." From there, as I reverse it would have a high pitch ring in the rear end.
Anyways, now I hear NO sound or thud, except for a few things have changed. Now after reversing I heard the thud in the front passenger side as I drive off and turn the wheel. It also has a cracking sound whenever i go over speed bumps. And not to forget that if I have to reverse out of something, the brakes drag BAD.
The passenger side front wheel also smells BURNT after my drive.
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My situation of hearing a clunk, clunk only when reversing the first time after the 2002 Camry was parked over night. The clunk clunk would not appear after the first reverse til the car was parked overnight and reversed the next day. I fixed this situation by only changing out both rear rotors, but diagnosing the problem was very frustrating as the symptom seemed to be only the rear wheels being stuck with the break pads and no connection with applying the breaks. Fortunately the problem was only with the rotors and not the differential or transmission or other expensive replacements.
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A weird problem occurred today on my 07 with 61000 miles, with no accidents or electrical problems before. When i pull the right stalk towards me to activate the front wiper washers, the rear washer turns on, and nothing at all comes out of the front washers, but the front wipers would still wipe several times as they normally would when front washers are activated.
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I drive a 99 Durango at work and the front/rear washer switches are reversed! IE push button for front and rear sprays, push button for rear and front sprays. Is there somewhere in the wiring harness that the wiring could have gotten easily switched?
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Why in the newer Fords, the power window functionality is reversed compared to the older models (old was push forward to close window, push backward to open). I have an older 2006 truck, and it is the reverse of my 2011, and all of my previous vehicles that had power windows right back to their invention were opposite of my 2011..... Most days I push the switch the wrong way in both vehicles on account of this change. Never remember.
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04 Honda CRV: I just had new rotors / pads / calibers put on my rear 2 tires because I was getting a loud creaking sound whenever I reversed or stoped at a stop sign. Most notibly I would hear it after the car had sat for a few hours as it's not happening a 100% of the time... Am I looking at joint or wheel well problems now? The loud creaking is still an issue...
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After returning from vacation, I found that one door of my 2007 Prius was left open while we were gone. I tried jumping the car. Long story short, I accidentally reversed the polarity and fried the main fuse block. I just replaced the fuse this last weekend and it's been running fine.
Until today
I drove to work and everything was fine. Then at lunch I got in the card and started it up. The red triangle came on with the exclamation point. Also the VSC light and the orange exclamation point in the Circle with the ( ) around it.
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I was jacking up front end the car started to roll back!, I had the parking brake on, so do I like bricks behind the back tires? or do i have to jack the back end up put the jacks under the car, then the front?
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The blower was working perfectly until a few months back it started with a ticking sound. No Performance problems or anything.
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Last night I was messing around with a bimmer. I was on 2nd gear, so i floored it and it wouldn't go in third gear. So I tried fourth and it wasn't going 4th neither. So i threw it in fifth. Started driving, I down shifted back into third, the car started shaking. Now the car shakes so much on idle. This all happen last night. I went home, and i checked out the coil packs. They seem to be fine. I was told it could be my spark plugs. So this morning,i replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the car still shakes a lot on idle and when i drive it. I scanned it, and nothing pops up, no check engine light. My motor mounts seem good. I just recently got my um N/A tune. I feel like the tune is doing this. I have no clue whats the problem. I changed the spark plugs and coil pack for no reason. Also under my exhaust mid pips where the clamps are right after the cats. Water is leaking out. So i thought the gas station i went to, use water in their gas. Gas was low, so i put more gas, and still having the same problem.
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I guess my curious nature got me in trouble today. I took out the ski bag today just to wipe it down and see what it looked like and when I went to put it back in, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to fold it back up with that belt and everything and make it fit in that little compartment. I looked in the manual but it doesn't have instructions on how to fold it properly.
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I recently starting hearing a very audible clicking/ticking sound in the rear that happens for about a second each time the car is started. After, everything seems to be just fine, but I don't know if this is something I should be concerned about.
I recently did some suspension work and I don't know if this is somehow related or if I'm now just extra sensitive to the sounds my car makes after the work was done. Perhaps the auto parking brake disengaging?
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