Touareg :: V10 Turbo Wouldn't Hold Speed Up Hills And Engine Had Definite Shudder
Feb 15, 2005
The beast slowed to a crawl on the interstate saturday morning for my son's soccer games... wouldn't hold speed up hills and engine had definite shudder at all speeds... fortunately, the dealer is in the city he was playing in adn the service dept is open on saturday mornings, so I could drop it off... they were exceptional about getting a loaner (new jetta tdi wagon)... they called today to report that one of the turbos was ruined... VW says they have to replace both to complete repair... tracked down parts in germany and will take about a week to arrive, then a day or so to repair. Had problems with the v10's turbos? I'm at about 12K miles... this is my second v10 and it's kinda spooky to have this kind of problem...
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I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
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My 2004 V10 was loosing power, the check engine sign went on, and it actually stopped running. I got it to the dealer in limp mode. After checking the fault code with VW the dealer said VW told them to replace both turbos and both ECUs . Of course the engine had to be dropped etc.
What are the chances that both turbos fail at the same time? Would not one exchange lets say the ECU first and see if that fixes it? The turbos looked fine when they had them out???? The guys at the dealership were great, making it as smooth as possible, but could not fully explain it to me either....
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I'm curious to know if it is theoretically possible to (some-day) swap out the V8 gasoline engine w. a VW DIESEL/Turbo power plant. Are any of the VW Diesel engines directly compatible w. the V8 transmission, mounting brackets, electronics, etc. etc. The Glow Plug indicator in the dash, though not required for me, would be nice to have as a reminder.
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The engine light comes on and the wrench. Car doesn't get up to speed going up hills when this happens. One time it would not go over 30 without a whining noise. It's happened now 3 x's in 10 days.
First time the radiator cap was not on securely. Apparently that must have been from the shop because I have only had it for 10 weeks. Which is 2 weeks over the warranty and 2K miles over warranty also. Just my luck.
Doesn't happen every day, appears to be on hot days. When it's cool in the 50's or 60's I'm fine. First happened when it was high 90's. Then today its about 80.
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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I took my 09 6 cyl. AWD Santa Fe Ltd. into the dealership this morning because of a whoop whoop whoop noise when accelerating normally or maintaining speed on a grade. A bit like a helicopter sound. The frequency of the noise increases with speed and seems to come from the front driver's side. I thought it might be a wheel bearing.
$2000+ later I have new tires, a 4 wheel alignment, new rotors and pads fore and aft, a new tie rod end and a car that goes whoop whoop whoop when I accelerate or climb a hill.
The car has 125,000 km. (78,000 mi.) on it and has been very well maintained. Detonation maybe?
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I am having trouble with my 1999 F350 Ford Powerstroke, Looses power but the motor never quits and also starts up fine, will set and run and warm up on the coldest morningIdles fine, It will hold back sometimes and not increase speed. I can take it out today and it may be fine and tomorrow can't run 2 miles. I was thinking CPS but after reading information I am not sure. What may be causing this issue. I just put a High Pressure oil pump on it could this have anything to do with it. Was not having a problem before the pump was changed. The pickup has 190,000 on it actual miles.
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My cruise light will activate but won't hold speed, it shuts off when I tap the brakes. I did the self test and it went through complete. All buttons worked. After the test it did not show any blinks which according to the chart shows speed control switch faulty, I replaced the switch and does the exact same thing. The recall was also done.
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Well my 05 Touareg V6 is at VW waiting for a new tranny. It has approx 55,000 miles. The problem is, when i'm decreasing my speed say at 55 mph due to traffic or whatever, then begin to accelerate at approx 30mph, the engine revs slightly and the transmission kicks into gear very hard. VW test drove my VW and acknowledge that there is a serious problem with my tranny, but after 4 days, could not figure out why my tranny was doing this. So they are going to install a new tranny this week. I've already experience the hesitation problems and VW has attempted on fixing that too, but it still does it but i/wife have both have learned to live with it.
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Recently bought a 1994 Toyota Celica GT with a 2.2 off of Ebay, for a good price mind you as the body work on it is very nice, sporting a "seamless supra" body kit as they called it and some nice 8 spoke unilug rims.
The car has been nothing but problems from the start, first- when they shipped it to me, the car had been sitting for a month, so they jumped the car with a semi. Blew all of the relays, took me a few days to figure out that dilemma (as I'm not much of a car person)
Once the relays were replaced, the car ran beautifully as a 94 with 174k on it does.
And the trouble starts, I changed the oil in the car- was about to give the engine and the suspension a total overhaul and baby the car up real nice, the next morning as I am driving to work the oil light blinks a little bit, but I think well maybe there was so much sludge in the engine that the Part-Synthetic High Mileage Castrol motor oil I used broke up some and it had a bit of a hard time processing it.
Well by the time I get off work, I start the car, oil light is on permanently and I am hearing definite lifter noise. I dropped the oil pan, cleaned the screen and made sure the oil pump still worked, and replaced the oil filter. Still nothing. I checked the oil pressure by removing the filter and turning the car on momentarily, the car spat oil out where the filter is and will spit oil out if revved from the top where you place the oil.
But then all of a sudden it wont even start, it will turn over- but it wont start.
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I had the transmission replaced last fall under warranty. the VW rebuilt unit was 09L 300 035 PX. When unit was replaced the dealer used G 060 162 A2 as the fluid. Was that the right oil? Shouldn't they have used the upgraded G 055162 A2 and the new reflash? The shudder has started to return and I am off of warranty.
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I replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
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I have a 2012 Prius plug in. Initially when fully charged, the recorded range was 12.2 miles. The car has now 40,000 miles. When it hit 25,000 miles , the fully charged battery went from 12.2 to 11.5, 11.0, 10.5 and finally down to 9.5. It makes no sense. My driving pattern has remained the same. No AC or heating use different than before. I took the car several times and I was told that there was nothing wrong. I try charging the car at a different place than my house ( I have a educated outlet ) and I obtained the same results.
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Whenever I stop my T-Reg (like at a light, etc.) I feel a rumble and can see the RPMs take a quick dip below where the car normally idles (this happens just before the car has fully stopped). Pretty much I feel the rumble for about second and at the same time can see the RPMS rapidly dip. When the car has made its full stop the RPMs come back up and the car idles normally. Sometimes the dip is more drastic than others, but you can definitely feel a rumble or shudder. It almost feels like the rumble associated with a car getting ready to stall; except it never stalls. What is causing this?
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I was sitting in my car waiting for someone, and noticed that whenever I pull the window button(s) to pull a window up (esp if the window is already up), the RPMs dip and a shudder is felt through the car. What's up with that!? I tried it about a zillion times: pull, dip, shudder.
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Checked but could find much on the throttle body. I have a 93 Chev 1500 2wd 5.7 320000km when I drive on highway, it drives along good when I get to slower speeds is seems to studder. I have to push gas pedal to push it threw. I bought some throttle body cleaner and I noticed that when I sprayed around the bottom of throttle body. It almost stalls. Could this be the reason why I am getting the studder and is that the indication that I should replace the base of throttle body gasket ? I replaced the plugs and fuel filter cleaned iac motor ....
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New start for an old problem. 2010, F-150, 5.4, 5.5' bed. Truck is new to me, used 105K miles. Love the truck, got it to tow TT I was having trouble towing with a shorter wheel base vehicle. Has HD towing package, tows great, good power, stable. First trip out with the TT the ole Shudder in 2nd gear low speed reared it's ugly head. I did do the slip joint re-lube with Ford wonder grease.
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I have a 2006 V-10 TDI with 43k miles on it. Last week I was turning right onto a busy street so I got on the gas hard and all of a sudden it sounds like my transmission was bouncing/shuddering inside the tunnel. It has since happened twice since then, both times while turning right and on the gas hard. I always like to find out as much information as I can about a problem before I take it to my local dealer as the only V-10 they have ever seen is mine and I didn't buy it from them.
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After 12,000 kms of trouble free motoring on my replacement Treg (first one a lemon) it seems to have developed an unusual problem. The best I can describe this prob is that when I go into almost full turning lock (obviously at snail pace speed) the car shudders quite noticeably. The problem occurs intermittently however as of late at least on 50% of occasions. Seems to be worse after reversing uphill a short distance.
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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