Touareg :: V-10 2004 Mysteriously Loses Electrical Power - AMP Gauge Reads 0
May 18, 2011
Weird thing occasionally happens with my 2004 v-10 treg, every once in a while upon trying to turn on my turn indicator I notice that its not working... then i see that my dash lites are dimmer than usual, then i notice my amp gauge reads "O".... But once i stop and turn it off [sometimes repeatedly] the amp gauge reads back up to where it normally is at 14.
The first time this happened it was on the freeway and i drove 30 miles thinking it was gonna die before I got home. Once I got home and turned it off and restarted it, and it was fine. This all happens without an error message? I should also mention my keyless entry works now only a fraction of the time? What this could be? I got 160,000 miles on this very well maintained treg.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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My friend has an 08 4.6. He has replaced the thermostat with 3 different ones all with different temps, still nothing. Temp gauge reads normal but after driving it for a bit he can take off the radiator cap while it's running and not get sprayed in the face with coolant, almost like there is no pressure in the system.
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Towed 3 axle trailer loaded with a 73 VW bug, two implement bars, plows and a small boat. I would guess total weight at 7,000 max. The ambient temp 97 degrees and very humid. I have a 2000 dually.
The following are from the ScangaugeII
TFT trans temp 175 max
EOT end oil temp 205 max
SLP trans slip 0.20 max and 0.0 in high gear
From glow shift
Water temp 196
The one I am worried about is the trans slip, from a stop taking off always went high 0.15 to 0.20 and then drop quickly. Once the TC locked 0.0 down the road. Also, when I reverse with no load on dirt I have seen 0.20 on the trans slip. I have Forscan but have not logged any temps yet....
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While driving my lights flash like a strobe light and I can see this at night. The. The car loses electrical power for 1 sec and then all okay. In the morning when I start the car I get ESP errors whilst idling, I then turn the car off and try to start it again and everything is completely dead!
When connecting jumper cables then trying again it works, the. I don't have a problem for about 3 days the. The same thing happens. Battery is brand new, had it at the dealers and errors are intermittent electrical errors but doesn't say where.
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Fuel gauge goes back to empty when I fill the truck all the way up. It goes back to full once I have used up 2 gallons ( from 36 gal to 34 ) on my 2012 F350. I also had a similar issues years ago with my 2003 6.0L .....
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About 30 days after having my towing hitch installed at the dealer (and having driven 1,500 miles with no problems), my turn signals mysteriously stopped functioning while driving down the freeway. I took it into my dealer and they determined that there was a software patch that needed to be installed. It resolved my signal issues and the "canbus error"....
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I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 142K miles. A few weeks ago while driving the car, it seemed to lurch/slip out of gear and then I lost the AC, odometer, speedometer, power windows, turn indicators, etc. My mechanic said connections to the CEM were fried and he replaced them. Yesterday, the same problem occurred.
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Just started happening today. Dash cluster beeps, all warning lights flash, then gauges and lights go dead while under acceleration or cruising. Upon stop and return to idle the dash starts to operate properly until I take my foot off the brake pedal and start to accelerate. Tried searching and didn't find anything. What are the possible causes?
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Problem: Fuel tank near empty and the gauge (appropriately) reads near empty. I pull into a gas station and fill up. In spite of a full tank, the fuel gauge is still near empty and the warning light/chime is still on. I turned the car off and restarted it several times but no change.
I can't recall any and could not find any reference in the table of contents.
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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My factory gauge on the dash reads Zero. I have put on a mechanical external gauge and it reads normal.
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I've been fighting this for weeks with no success. Gas gauge always reads empty and the light is on. I checked the resistance of both sending units sitting in the tank 28 ohms on the right and 50 ohms on left. That should be within spec right? And when I pulled them out the ohms change at a steady rate with the arm down to 4 or 5 ohms.
I've checked all the fuse, all good. And I do have a for fuel level sensor A. Is there supply voltage checks I can do, or ground something to try to get some reading?
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Gas gauge went from about 1/4 to full in about 3 seconds and hasn't moved since. 2000 B3000 Mazda 3.0 V-6 auto. I've checked all the instrument cluster fuses (11,26,33). I know of the method of disconnecting the connector at the gas tank to see if its the sending unit or the gauge but I can't see or feel in there good enough to do that. Would either one go bad that quickly? Doesn't seem likely to me.
I've read about a "slosh sensor" in a post on this forum - does my truck even have that? I've had an intermittent wiper problem a couple of times but the multifunction switch wouldn't be involved would it? I'm just trying to see if there might be a simple fix before I add it to my repair list when I take it to have the ball joints replaced.
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Fuel gauge reads full all the time except when the key is off. Also the temp gauge reads low. Just barely on the mark for normal.
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1996 Miata. The hood of my car is so hot that you could fry an egg on it. The hood is so hot that you can not put your hand on it. The heat actually comes through and can be felt on the legs of the person in the passenger seat. The temperature gauge reads normal. This began recently. I took it to the Mazda dealer who said it was normal?
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When the gas gauge of my recently purchased 2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 automatic is on E it will only take approx. 40 liters (11 gallons) at the pump. Manual says it's a 75 litre (19.8) gallon tank. Called dealership and service advisor said "they are all like that, you can go quite some distance on E". I think he's full of something that creates gas and there's a problem with either my float or the sending unit in the tank. Why in the world would anyone make a vehicle with a "reserve" pass E almost as much as what the gauge reads before E?
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Full tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
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I imagine it's due to evaporation that happens overnight... Is it?
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So I had the brakes services yesterday at a new shop in town. Normally I wouldn't do this, I like to do it myself. After I dropped the truck off I get a call a while later and the service tech tells me that the passenger front caliper is the wrong one. He says it's actually for the drivers side, but who ever did the brakes last just flipped it upside down and put it on the passenger side. So in essence, I have two drivers side calipers on the front of my truck.
I got under ther and looked and the bleeder screw is on the bottom on the passenger side. I would assume it's supposed to be on the top like the others?
So here's my questions......
1. Is it even possible to put the drivers side on the passenger side (upside down?)
2. Is it really the wrong caliper? It has been working for over two years like this with no ill effects.
3. Should I worry about it if in fact it is the wrong caliper?
I've never done the brakes on this truck actual truck myself. I really hate taking things to the shop because you never know if they are trying to scam you, which I'm pretty sure they were. I left there with only new pads...
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I have a 2003 Malibu with 29,000 miles on it. I notice my temperature gauge reads a bit over the half way mark when driving around town. I don't notice any type of coolant leak. The gauge almost always reads above the half point, but never gets to the point of overheating. Sometimes it comes close to it but never actually overheats.
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