Touareg :: Transmission Won't Downshift Smoothly / Driver Side Seat Trim Cracked
Jul 14, 2006
I checked my driver side leather seat (V8) and found that the trim was cracked.
When I slow down my car smoothly when driving, the transmission was not downshifted smoothly after 20K service.
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Picked up the T-Reg on thur. Black w/teak V-8.! Had the factor hitch installed? Service dept indicated a change was needed in the on board computer to adjust for the additional strain that towing will put on the drive train. What may have been changed?
The trans does not seem to shift as easy as when I drove it first, it could be just the amount of time that I spent in it on the test drive run. If you leave from a stop and try to leave smoothly it is a little harsh, not as smooth as the A-6 Avant with Tiptronic that we had.
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9000 Miles latter: The driver side heated seat has given up the ghost. Also, the digital clock on the dash keep gaining time. VW says there is nothing wrong with the computer and they have thrown up there hands.
The clock has probably gained an hour in the last month. I know the car is German not Swiss but a digital clock should not do this and causes me concern that there might be other ECU issues.
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Wife said her trim on the driver's seat broke on her 2014 SFS. I can see some plastic part between the hinges is hanging. Got it together this far.
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Hazard triangle symbol on the edge of the drivers side rear seat facing the door. Noticed it yesterday when detailing the new gal. Thought maybe there was a first aid kit or triangle under the rear seat, but nothing. What it's there for??
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The side trim panel on the passenger side seat was accidentally pulled away in the front. Checked the tabs and clip are intact, is there any special way to push that in? Or just by brute force?
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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My 2004 V8 egg is currently at 111,000 miles and I'm starting to have problems that are really cause for concern. Since the blue book value on the Touareg is worthless and I've got it paid off, I might as well keep it until the wheels fall off of it. Anyhow, on to the problem at hand ...
When driving on the interstate at high speed somewhere around 80 - 90 mph and you push the accelerator to get that extra bit of speed out of the downshift so you can pass or just for the heck of it, the transmission starts clunking, LOUDLY, which of course causes you to let your foot off the gas. The clunking continues for about 5 - 10 seconds until the car has slowed down a bit.
I can still get the car up to speeds of around 110 mph (my wife tried it just about 15 minutes ago on our way back from Florida), but it has to be done gradually as to keep the transmission from downshifting.
Around town the car responds fine. Occasionally it will have a hard shift, but I can't find a reason or pattern to that. Fifth gear also works fine in city traffic, I've used tiptronic to keep it in 5th and I've also watched the main display change from D4 to D5 to D6 and back again without incident.
I'm too afraid to take the car up to 90 and then engage tiptronic and downshift to 5th. This transmission has had its fair share of problems. I'm on my third stepper motor, the forward transmission seal had to be replaced and then later the hydraulic pump had to be replaced. There are no noticeable fluid stains on the belly pans and there are no stains on my garage floor, so I doubt its leaking fluid. Can you even check the transmission fluid level in this thing?
Other than the transmission problem, the Touareg is behaving fairly well. (Knock on wood) It still rides nice and I've learned to put up with the little electrical anomalies that happen like the blue strobe backlight compass (it's just dancing along with the music) and the lights switching ON in full daylight (with the euro switch installed).
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It seems that someone hit my drivers side mirror on my 2004 gx and cracked the shell. The mirror works fine its just the outer plastic part is cracked. My question is i see on ebay some for sale but im not sure if they are glued together or clipped in. How to take off the cover and if so is it easy or not.
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I'm slowly going through my (new to me) GX470 that I bought about a month ago. I live in the big mountains and many people would say that the road I live on is a 4x4 trail, although I'm often on real 4x4 trails. On an outing today I noticed that with the air bags raised there is a loud banging sound when I go over any significant bumps. I would tick the switch to lower the air bags while going over bumps and the sound would instantly stop.
Based on that info, I presumed that I had a problem with the height sensors, causing them to max out the suspension travel. So I looked underneath and sure enough I have a cracked bracket on the driver's side sensor. So basically the cracked bracket bends as the suspension is going up until the suspension travel is maxed out.
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Noticed that my drivers side back up plastic cover is cracked with a small hole in the top. Would like to RTV the damaged area to seal it but I need to remove it to make the repair. I've pulled some of the inner plastic on the door but can't get at the back up plastic cover.
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I have a 2014 Prius and I just noticed that the window on the driver's side is broken/cracked on the edge. I noticed this last night but my wife drives it mostly so I'm not sure how long it's been like that because my wife never noticed it.
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My uncle has a 2002 Explorer and the driver side rear spring is cracked. I have agreed to fix this as he is on a tight budget and has no mechanical skills or tools for that matter.
Anyhow, I did some reading and have two monroe quickstruts to replace the OEM stuff. I did not want to screw around with a spring compresser and everything else. Were in Michigan, and I can only imagine how rusted the bolts are on this. So I figured getting the whole unit with new hardware would be the best route.
Hopefully these are easy questions. (I do not have the truck to look at right now, and will be doing this Saturday Morning)
I have air tools, Jackstands, 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, and everything else I need at this point including PB Blaster, rags, pry bars, sockets, etc.
1. I am assuming once I get the truck in the air, I will put the frame on jack stands, and use the floor jacks to manipulate each side of the rear suspension as needed. If I remove the three top bolts, and the bottom bolt holding the shock, can I move the control arm down enough to get the old parts out?
2. What are the torque specs if any for the top three bolts, and the bottom shock bolt? I read the top three bolts are difficult to get out due to limited clearance, so I doubt a torque wrench will fit in there.
3. Would you locktite these top three bolts at all?
4. Weakest question of the day, What are the torque specs for the lug nuts.
5. Anything I have obviously missed? I have done front struts before with a compressor so I am somewhat familiar with the process. Just not on this car before.
6. When Im in this far, anything else I should look at. I will inspect the brake pads etc. Drain and fill the rear diff fluid if needed, etc.
I have searched high and low on the net to find a pictorial write up of the process....
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How to remove the driver side door trim? i need to change my side mirror housing. My is a 2007 gs450h.
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I'm having an issue with my drivers side door trim vibrating. Bumpy roads, snow covered roads, pretty much any road surface that isn't perfect, this piece of trip vibrates and makes a squeaking noise. I've attached a picture and put a circle where the noise is coming from. If I hold that part with my hand, the noise stops. It's very annoying since it's right next to my ear!
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Cracked rear window from bottom center (on the driver's side just past the Dole light). Dealer says that they would have to sub out the install. That worries me a little, given antennae & other items hooked up on/near rear window.
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I had a brake line crack on my way home yesterday(that was interesting..) It was the drivers side rear metal line from the splitter to the rubber hose. I went to autozone and was like ok easy enough this line is the same length and appeared to be the same diameter. bend to fit and all was well or not.. the fitting on the end was a different thread pitch and size. 1999 f250 4wd if it matters....
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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Isn't the driver's seat supposed to scoot back automatically when you turn the key off to ease entry and exit???
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I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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I just noticed this, this weekend, sitting in GTI and Golf. I checked carefully, and indeed it feels like I'm not sitting directly in line with the steering column/wheel. It's not a huge issue, but just a little strange, that they wouldn't match them up straight?
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