Touareg :: Transmission Doesn't Shift Smoothly
Dec 21, 2003
Picked up the T-Reg on thur. Black w/teak V-8.! Had the factor hitch installed? Service dept indicated a change was needed in the on board computer to adjust for the additional strain that towing will put on the drive train. What may have been changed?
The trans does not seem to shift as easy as when I drove it first, it could be just the amount of time that I spent in it on the test drive run. If you leave from a stop and try to leave smoothly it is a little harsh, not as smooth as the A-6 Avant with Tiptronic that we had.
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I gotta prob with my 08 camry 83k....I bought it two months ago and def didn't notice this so think its a new prob.. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the car seems like it doesn't shift smoothly... For example if I am going at 2rpms, I will take foot off, and go to 1rpm, and then it will jerk back up to 1.5 rpm..is this normal? The dealership tells me everything is fine and I am not so sure figured to consult with the pro's ...
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I have an 04 V6, 42,000 mi. There is an intermitent problem with the transmission. The MFI display doesn't hilite the transmission mode (P,R,N,D,S) or gear (1,2,3,4,5,6) and the tiptronic mode appears to be disabled. On occasion the transmission doesn't want to shift into higher gears. Seems to happen when the engine is cold (So Ca cold, not Mid West cold).
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I checked my driver side leather seat (V8) and found that the trim was cracked.
When I slow down my car smoothly when driving, the transmission was not downshifted smoothly after 20K service.
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I just swapped the 1.8 7a-fe for a fresher 1.8 7a-fe. Everything is properly assembled, but when I start it up it idles low and doesn't run smoothly. As if it weren't timed correctly... My buddy claims it is though, and he ran it with a timing light.
Another issue is black exhaust, I'm not sure if they bare any relation but I know black exhaust cannot be good..
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I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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My 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
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I have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
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Recently I have another problem:
When I drive uphill on the way the car's transmission doesn't shift up to the upper gear,the gear stays on 1,when I press the gas pedal more the EPC light comes on the dashboard,I must release 2-3 times the gas pedal then the gear goes up to 2-nd or 3-rd gear.This happens only when I drive uphill,when drive on flat street this problem almost doesn't come.
Another,when I drive downhill,the gear doesn't release sometimes too,the car tries to stop from 3-rd gear directly to 0,and the RPM goes straight to 100-200,even the car turns off... I heard something for the VW Phaeton transmission problems,and that it can be SOFTWARE flashed and the problems go away???
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Sold my mazda and got a nice 2000 2wd Ranger XLT with a 3.0L. Today the wife I and took it to town, 10 miles on the highway there, a couple in town and 10 back, didn't notice anything unusual. However I haven't this truck long so I'm not sure what is usual.
Parked it for a few hours and when went out to change the front turn signals to LED I noticed the ABS light was on when I drove it into the garage...
I checked fluid, connections and fuses, no change.I go ahead and swapped the bulbs while letting things simmer, I've had so many of these Fords sometimes the easy fix comes to me.
I backed it out and took it down the road, right away I noticed my speedometer wasn't working, so I let off the gas, when I re-applied the pedal I got nothing, like it was in neutral.
I downshifted to second and got her down and turned around as the O/D started flashing... (so glad because I would have hated walking back), then pulled her back in the garage to check transmission fluid and recheck fuses, including the ones I forgot earlier under the hood. I added a 1/4 qt of fluid then tried a road test again, this time there was a real long pause before it upshifted hard and the CEL came on.
I pulled the codes with my scangauge and got:
P0500
P2120
P0028
And decided I better look some things up and consult the gurus here before I do anymore damage tonight. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a tranny replacement possibly, but with the ABS light and speedometer failure I'm not 100% sure what is going on here...
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer. Starting about 4 months ago I have had intermittent problems with it not wanting to start.When you turn the key the radio and dome lights etc. come on but it is dead silence from the motor.First time it happened we ended up replacing the starter solenoid. Next time we discovered that if you "jump" the 2 posts on the solenoid (using well insulated rubber handled pliers) while turning the ignition it will start every time.Took it to a local, reputable mechanic - he is baffled. They looked at every connection and wire they could think of.It is not the battery or solenoid, as best we can tell. It does not do it all the time. It will ocur, then it will start fine for 2 weeks then happen 3 times in a row, then not happenf for say another week or two.
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So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
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My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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After my traction control incident from yesterday (see: unexplained traction control) my treg got stuck in third and won't go anywhere...drove 10 miles to the dealer in third...those hills really made things difficult...
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I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. O2j trans obviously. It shifts not so smothly in any gear but stays in all gears fine. When the car is up to temp and the trans is warm it grinds going into second. It's ONLY when the car is warm. Shifts perfectly fine before that. And it's only when I shift from first into second. I can go from third to second just fine and I can pull out of first put into third without letting go of clutch and put it into second without a grind. I've changed the oil to Lucus oil 70w/90 gl-4 rated and there was absolutely no change.
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When I shift my transmission from R to P I hear a very loud "TING" sound. It doesn't do it from N to P, D to P or S to P. This is too loud to be normal.
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Hard time getting your manual MK6 to shift smoothly when the engine is cool after sitting overnight?? Got about 4k miles on it and I don't recall it happening when I first got it. Started maybe at 2k miles and happens every morning. It seems to only happen to me until the car warms up and then its fine, it jerks like if I was learning how to drive a manual.
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with automatic 5r55e and it had problems shifting smoothly into third gear. I changes the valve body gaskets and the (rooster comb) detent lever. Now it shifts very hard and has on first second and passing gear.
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I have a 2013 Outback that has since new chugged and has had a feeling of not going smoothly through the gears up to around 30 mph (mainly around 20-25 mph). Since it occurs intermittently the first two times into the dealer to fix it they found nothing wrong but on the third time back in they found that Subaru sent it out from the factory with 1/2 quart too much tranny fluid. Dealer drained to the proper level but I am still noticing the same symptoms only not as bad as before. Took it back for fourth time and after they drove it for a total of 10 miles and hooked it up to the computer they said they could find nothing wrong. My question is driving it 10,000 miles with 1/2 qt too much tranny fluid going to have caused damage or possible future damage to seals, etc. When I asked the Service Manager that he responded that I had plenty of warranty left.
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