Touareg :: Transmission Jerkiness / Sluggishness - Inconsistent Power
May 11, 2006
My 2004 Treg has 24,000 miles on it and though I still LOVE it, it has been in and out of the dealer for inconsistent power issues. Off and on there is a noticeable delayed response from when you engage the gas and when the vehicle responds. Not to mention the transmission feels very jerky and rough as well. I have heard numerous reasons for this, but this week I got a new reason! The VW dealership says that now it could be that my air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced! They said if the new air filter does not fix the problems that I will need a whole new computer system!! Does this make any sense?
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Carefully modulating the brake in this car to offset any jerkiness caused by the DSG riding the gears down eventually became second nature to me and I am pretty good at keeping things nice and smooth. As of late however, my brakes are all over the place and it's driving me insane. If the person ahead of me stops short pulling up to a light and I need to follow suit, my brakes will often BITE hard resulting in a not so subtle jolt. Other times I don't get nearly as much stopping power as I think I should given how much force I'm putting on the pedal and I really have to bury it at the last minute. Not sure if these are a factor of the DSG downshifting at just the wrong moment or what, but it's gotten a bit unnerving.
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I just changed out my leaking transmission pan this weekend. Drain plug was stripped and leaking.
I put 3.5 quarts in and now I am getting inconsistent oil levels on the dipstick. Last night it was at exactly the correct level. Today it was low.
My dipstick is bent up and goes in hard. Could the dipstick be giving a bad reading? Should I buy a new one?
Btw I check for leaks and the pan and gasket look perfect..
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2002 Suzuki XLZ 4WD. It has 149,000 miles, has had a new starter, new fuel pump and lines, and new brakes in the past year. Bought it a couple of weeks ago and took it straight to shop, so I have no personal history with this car.
Now: have replaced all catalytic converters and exhaust pipe. Have also replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Great news - all computer codes are cleared. Runs great when in park or neutral (30 min or more). Mechanics then moved it around parking lot with no problem, so they trusted it enough to take it on a test drive on the open road. Made it out of sight of shop (not sure how far, but it was an improvement over the last time!)...but required tow back.
Hooked back up to diagnostic computer, and found NO error codes. They are doing what they call "exploratory surgery" (yikes). Am I wrong in thinking this is probably a TPS issue? What are the other things that could cause this inconsistent power/stalling when it is put in gear?
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Ok here is my question. I've noticed the power on my car has felt inconsistant for the last little while. I finally got around to logging the car and my boost peaks at mid 20's just over 3000 RPM and then drops fast to between 13-15 psi before I even get to 5000 RPM.
Under full boost I hear a low fluttering sound like the diverter valve opening and closing when this is happening. I also don't get the typical diverter valve sound when shifting when the car is doing this.
I took my diverter valve out and inspected it. I can pushing the piston up very easily with almost no resistance, is that normal? I would think that it should be hard to push the piston up if not wouldn't boost pressure be able to overcome the piston and leak past?
My mods are. HPA tune, HPA catted down pipe, and VWR intake.
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I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
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So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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I have a 2002 accent, 1.5L 16v. So the story is the other day my fiance was driving home and about 200m after she took off, the front wheels chirped all of a sudden and then she noticed it was lacking power. It was still moving along ok and got her home, however it didn't have enough grunt to even get up our steep driveway. I went outside and turned the car off and on again, then all of a sudden the problem was gone and the car drove fine up our driveway. To me this sounded like a sensor or computer issue, although no warning lights are coming up on the dash at all. The next day when driving it, it gradually lost more and more power as the drive went on, but didn't seem as bad as the first day. And again turning the engine off and on again seems to resolve the problem short term. My only thoughts are possibly the maf sensor or the trp sensor. But I'm not really sure.
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I had my car in a garage for 5 days and it started up and drove fine. I went to the store got back in my car and now if feels like the car is working harder to move and the initial electric motion feels impeded.
Tires at 29-33psi. Oil was at low line. Filled it up....test drove and it feels the same sluggishness
The gas engine even sounds like it is working harder to move.
My car has over 200,000 miles.
I think I need a new cat converter....but I have been trying to find one...
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2001 F250 7.3L 280k... On a 50 ish degree day or if the truck is cool on a warmer day I'm getting an inconsistent idle lowest end 450rpm high end maybe 750. Wondering now what the possible causes may be, truck seems to run fine and idle ok once warmed up but still cycles the revs a little, AC is off.
Second question is about an oil leak, doesn't seem to be massive but it leaves a small pool, especially if she's plugged in. It seems to be coming from underneath the truck driver side large metal tube system running front to back on the engine, just under the manifold I think.
I checked HPOP connections and they are solid no leaking but here's a pic from under the truck, can't see any of this from the top. Is it an easy fix??
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Previously, I would sometimes experience sluggishness and hesitation when attempting to accelerate. Now, the problem has become worse. Also, previously the issue occurred when I suddenly needed to accelerate to pass another vehicle. Now, I can feel it from take off, you really hear the engine struggling(the kind of sound you hear on an old 4 cylinder vehicle trying to go uphill). Sometimes, I feel the engine is struggling to keep the vehicle at a constant speed on a level road. Tried fuel injector cleaners like BG44K. While these injector cleaners are in the gas tank, the car runs smooth and has decent acceleration. Later, I return back to square one.
It is not that I have high expectations and am a power freak. I used to own a 2004 RX330 with 150K miles and that car ran better at 150K without any tune up then my GX460 with 60K miles. So, you can imagine my frustrations.
One more thing I noticed, it runs better when I just gas it up. One theory, could be the fuel filter is clogged. When I am suppose to change the fuel filter on the GX460?
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I'm noticing some odd behavior from my Brand New (50 miles) Chevy Sonic. When I get to about 40-45 mph steady, the car seems to apply a small amount of braking every few seconds. The effect is strong enough that my head bobs forward somewhat.
On a long drive, I could see it getting VERY annoying. It really "feels' like braking and not like engine sluggishness, but I"m not 100% sure. I was thinking traction control. I'm going to the shop next week but would be nice to be pre-loaded with some ideas, maybe even some things I could look into myself.
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Is it somehow possible to change the (standard 50/50) Front/Rear Power Ration of the 4x4 Transmission? I know the Porsche Cayenne uses something like 40/60 (as well as the BMW X5) and as the Touareg and Cayenne are supposed to share the same hardware I figure it must be possible to adopt the Cayenne settings.
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My 2005 Camry XLE 3.0 V6 is exhibiting engine jerkiness over 55MPH. The OBD II reader shows a group of codes:
0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire detected
0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire detected
0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
2195 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank 1 sensor 1
From what I can find in the forum I cant quite tell whether I should be looking at bad gas, overfill of oil, vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor (the expensive one before the cat).
Changing the gas or checking the oil is easy enough. where would one look for the vacuum leak that would cause this type of problem? Is getting the O2 sensor out of the upper bank as much of a beast as it sounds in some of the threads (better left to a "real" mechanic?).
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Started my car yesterday and as I was accelerating, it made a very loud noise. It sounds like normal engine acceleration noise, only ten times louder. It was present whenever I accelerated, but not when I was coasting or idling, and not when the car was in neutral. (It's a stick shift.) During acceleration, there was a little hesitation and a little jerkiness, but not horrible. The problem came on suddenly - no problems with the car before yesterday.
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Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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I recently bought a 2013 gx and noticed a few things.
1. At high speeds 50+ mph the car downshifts quite often during rapid deceleration.
2. When coming to a near stop but not completely, and accelerate moderately to fast, lot of times there is a jerkiness when stepping on pedal initially. Is this normal or could it be something with the differential gearbox?
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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I have a 2012 Ford Fusion with a V6 and record my mileage & fuel info every time I fill up. For the first 45,000 miles I was getting 26mpg consistently every time I filled up, around 45,00 miles it started hopping around. Some fills I get as low as 20mpg others I get up to 33mpg. Over several fill-ups it is averaging close to 27mpg for the past year, but the volatility concerns me. I haven't seen something like this on past vehicles and not sure what it could be.
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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