Touareg :: Transition From Stopped To Starting Rough Sometimes?
Jan 10, 2004
Ever since I picked up my V8 Touareg I've noticed that the transition from stopped to starting can sometimes be rough, and that the shift from 1st to 2nd is often a fairly violent jerk. The worst transmission problem on my Touareg is experienced when I'm in stop-and-go traffic going around 5mpg in 1st gear then accelerate normally. The shift to 2nd is extremely rough.
I took my Touareg into the shop last week to fix this, and another problem I was having, and the car is still at the dealer. When I talked to my service advisor on Friday he said that this is a fairly common problem with later VIN cars. Evidently, they had to reprogram the transmission to meet some EPA regulation and that is causing rough shifting in the lower gears.
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Drove my wife's 4motion today after having drove it a few days ago,didn't really notice anything unusual,then ......but today going around a curve at highway speed(app.55-65mph) went over a small (low) but the length of the lane paved strip and it acted like it had a solid rear axle instead of the indi rear ,showing up as an uneven rough transition ,than the usual nice unoticable smooth ride it had for years,...what rear suspension item would create that if it were broke/failed, Didn't notice any other strange behavior or noises on straights or curves w/o bumps.
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I have had my 06 for 4 months now. I started to get a cold running problem now that the temperature is falling below 40. When I start it in the morning I wait till the idle comes down before driving. I start driving and it runs rough as if it had a choke stuck closed. I spoke with the dealer and he told me to run lower octane in the winter. That has not worked.
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Recently noticed the idle seems rough in Neutral and in Drive when stopped. When the roughness is subtle, that RPM gauge doesn't move and at other times with more pronounced surges the RPM gauge bounces around. Not sure if it is related but we just got back from a couples days in Tahoe. Tried reconnecting the gas cap with no change.
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I find that I often don't get smooth shifts; mostly to 2nd and 3rd. By this I mean I notice a gravel like transition between the gates. Doesn't happen all the time but I wonder if it's how I'm shifting versus the car. Or maybe the RPMs I shift at.
I did ask dealer to take a look and they said smooth and normal to them. I generally will shift when shift advice pops up on display. Also. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I pause the shift at the neutral point versus a single push gear to gear. Clutch is always to the floor for the entirety of the shift.
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Just wondering how many other C owners are experiencing harsh transition when the hydraulic brakes take over, just as the car comes to a stop, when it's wet outside...
There's a delicate balance just when you're coming to a stop with mild pedal pressure. MG2 regen. braking tapers off, and at the same time, the hydraulic brake system applies the brakes. Do this at a low enough speed, with little pressure, like creeping forward in traffic, and the brakes grab pretty harshly...
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I'm new to Prius V ownership. Just bought it a month ago. I do have a question regarding what I can best describe as driveline chatter. It seems that when I slow down to a point where the EV mode takes over and then speed up again, the Prius will chatter as it makes the transition from electric to gas. Is this a normal thing for a Prius to do. It goes away after the pedal is further depressed and doesn't last for long. It seems just at the transition from EV to ECO (engine) mode.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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My 1997 SL is not starting. This is not all the time, just when i need it the most, or when i've stopped for gas at midnight on the interstate 200 miles from home. Turn the key nothing happens. Have headlights, interior ,radio. tried jumping it, no luck. The first time it did it we had stopped for gas, pump was out so started it moved to other side turned it off then it wouldn't start. tried jumping it two times,no luck, turned key on at least 50 times...no luck, then the third guy who stopped to tried tightening the ground, tried it again it started. Started a dozen or so times over the next couple of days and it did it again.
Tried turning the negative terminal tighter again, tried it, it started so it must be the ground right? Well replaced the ground battery cable, tried it several times while it sat there started fine. Moved it 50 feet or so,tried it again wouldn't start. Kicked it...so much for the ground wire theory. Got up the next morning went out..it started. Drove it to advanced and had them hook it up to check battery/alternator/charging. Machine says everything is fine. Decided to give it another chance next morning, started, drove about 1/2 mile, forgot cell phone,ran back, turned it off ,ran back out, won't start.
Now ready to use it for target practice. Still keep thinking its something to do with the battery wires because every time it has started back up,with the exception of letting it sit overnight, i had just messed with the wires. Also am wondering if its a coincidence that all three times it's pulled this it had been started, ran for a short distance, and turned off. Also noticed that although i have interior ,radio etc, when it won't start the radio light does dim somewhat but I don't know if it does that all the time. I am laid off so a trip to the saturn garage is looking really expensive but i don't know what else to do.
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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Recently bought a 2010 Toyota Prius 1.8 and it was working very well. It used to display a message saying that the key battery is low. Then one day, the smart key stopped opening the door. After some reading on the forums, decided that the smart key battery might be really low, so used the mechanical key to get in and tried to start the car by placing the Toyota logo of the smart key on the power button. Since nothing happened, decided to replace the batteries anyways. After the replacement, tried again, but zip. The doors still won't unlock, and the proximity switch-on also is not working. Why? Is it an issue with the 12-v battery?
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One of my Touareg's headlamps is starting to die. The vehicle happens to be in the dealer for a recall so I asked about a headlamp. How easy/difficult is it to change a HID headlamp?
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I am concerned about a vibration I have in my steering Starting at 55 mph. The dealer had tried several thing to eliminate that vibration but no change. A technical engineer from the Volkswagen Canada office came and tried my T-reg. His statement is that it's normal that the T-reg vibrate at that speed and they all vibrate. We even tried a new truck from the dealer lot and same vibration. The only problem is that nobody told me before I bought the T-reg that it's a normal vibration and it's part of the normal specs of the vehicle. Now what I'm asking each V6 driver to try to notice if their truck vibrate between 60mph and 75 mph. It's a little shake if you take your hands off the wheel.
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I have an Acura 2000 TL. My car all of a sudden stopped starting. I called AAA and the tow truck driver did some repair like thing. The car started after this. He told me, there was a problem with the remote starter or security alarm issue. After that the car starts but the immobilizer light is completely off. It gives P1607 OBDII code. When I looked under the dash, I saw a black button and pressed on it. It gave some clicks and nothing happened. I pressed on it and turn the ignition switch on and off a couple of times and nothing happened. I pushed on the button while pressing on the brake peddle and released within 2 seconds etc. The car has a Code Alarm remote start with two button fob and it was disabled. I don't know whether the AAA driver enabled it causing the immobilizer bypass to actuate to have the P1607 code. The car starts ! What can I do to get the Code Alarm remote start to disable it?
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In the morning, my Treg won't start on the first attempt. If I just click the key to the right (to start the automatic ignition process) it just grinds and grinds then dies. The second time it will start. This has only happened the last couple of days. Also I should mention that it has gotten quite cold around here. Although the car is in a garage and my wife's Jetta fires right up.
I've also been having Insufficient Coolant problems. After one week of owning it I took it to the dealer and they topped off the coolant. A week later the Insufficient Coolant message came on again and I topped it off with about 1 quart (litre) of distilled water. It's been ok for the last day or so. I haven't seen any external leaks. I love my Touareg, but I really hope this isn't the beginning of a bunch of problems.
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My wife's Intrigue has had a hard starting/rough idle/rough start issue for a little bit now. On a hunch this weekend I decided to clean out her throttle body. Turns out it was more full of soot than a chimney in February. Nasty black carbon buildup. Took a toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner and scrubbed it out best I could. Car runs great now, very smooth and responsive. Gas pedal use to stick, even fixed that. So I'm a hero, until we realize that her car is still starting hard. Turn the key and the engine turns over no problem, starter sounds good. Once the engine is running it purrs like a kitten. But sometimes you have to crank it for several seconds before it fires up.
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
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