Touareg :: Throbbing Motions When Sitting At Stop Light
Dec 14, 2004
Or more like "chug...chug...chug...chug" or "whah...whah...whah...whah". My Twarg now makes little throbbing motions (not noise) like this when sitting at a stop light. More the kind of motion you would expect from a diesel truck or a 1-cylinder lawnmower at very low throttle. Maybe I am going insane, but I swear that it didn't use to do this until a recent service. I thought maybe I had bad gas, but after several fillings, it still does this. Very subtle but still annoying. I want Smooth.
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
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1997 expedition 4.6 .... Figured its the same motor. I bought it for cheap with a bad miss fire not sure what cylinders just did a tune up. I forget but I think they were motorcraft spark plugs I put in. But after that it ran grate so I thought. It would be intermiten but would all of a sudden while accelerating get a boost of power. That would last untell its next shift point and would always happen around 2-2500 rpm. Kinda like VTEC in a honda. Or it gained 2 cylinders. And would also start stumbling while sitting at a stop light for two long with it in gear and break on only after its warm. Never happens when cold. I hooked up tourqe and saw when it does it its misfiring on 5-6-7-8 randomly. Its missing on cylinder 4 all the time now which I believe is a plug, wire, or water-antifreez in plug hole.
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IF I go and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left up to the lock it will throb when I put the car in reverse. only sometimes when I put the car in 1st. I know its not good to put it up against the lock Just wondering what could be doing this.
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A loud throbbing noise suddenly started last night in the rear speaker of my 2010 Santa Fe. I think the speaker is blown. Can I pull the fuse until I can get this to the dealer? Which fuse? I can not locate a fuse map. I tried #13 and #31 based on an old fuse map online but the noise continued.
The noise is loud and I can't drive with my toddler in the car.
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Strangest thing! Yesterday on my way home was coming up to a stop on this back county hwy. My car started to buck or hesitate of some kind as i stopped. It was bucking while I sat at the stop sign. Then I released the brake a little to roll forward, and it stopped.
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Am back to VW. This time with a 05 Touareg. The truck was sitting for more than 3 days with dead battery and now the NAV will not turn on.
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Our 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T
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I just purchased a 2008 passat, 2.0T 6spd manual last night and I noticed today, when sitting at a stop sign it has slight idle issues, (goes up about 200-400rpms) then back down to normal idle. Doesn't seem to be causing any issues, its just pretty annoying, and everyone next to me thinks I'm trying to race them.
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My 4 cylinder Sonata was so smooth at idle when I first got it that I couldn't tell the engine was running. Now there is some vibration noticable while sitting at stop lights (82,000 miles) .... Its gotten gradually worse but still isn't a big problem.
Is there anything typical that might cause this that I could fix? Its not extreme but there is a definite vibration that wasn't there when the car was new. My first thought was that one of the spark plugs is slightly fouled.
I usually change plugs at 75K miles so I need to do the plugs anyway. My thoughts are if its an engine mount the vibration would be much worse. Maybe its a vacuum leak somewhere ... don't know.
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Once warmed up, while sitting at a stop in Drive, there is what feels like an engine stumble every so often. Good guess is every 45-60 seconds, so it only happens once, maybe twice at long stops. There is a sudden change in pitch the engine, and the car - for lack of a better term - shudders. The thing I have noticed is that when it does this there is no indication anything has happened with the tachometer - RPMs hold perfectly steady. Additionally, there is no shudder when sitting in park or neutral, only drive.
I initially thought it might be an ignition fault, so when I replaced the balance shaft belt I also replaced the crank sensor. No change in behavior. I did some googling, which suggested the issue might be related to the EGR not closing properly. I changed all the vacuum hoses and removed the switching solenoid to test - it seems to be doing its job. I have not removed or inspected the EGR valve itself. However, because there is no symptom in engine speed and the sensation doesn't happen in park or neutral and only happens when warm, I am starting to suspect the transmission itself is the culprit - I can imagine if the torque converter quickly engaged and disengaged - and a little power made it to the wheels - the same result would happen.
There is nothing else odd about the engine or transmission. No codes. Runs like a top. Transmission always shifts perfectly. Fluid was changed two years ago, about 15,000 miles. What came out looked good as well. I'm okay with replacing EGR components, but I don't want to throw money at the problem unnecessarily. Maybe try driving around with the EGR vacuum hose pinched off or disconnected?
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By way of brief background, I have a 2004 Touareg with 180,000 miles. I recently noticed that the front left air suspension was sitting lower than normal after the truck had been sitting. I discovered that the shock was leaking air and in the subsequent days began getting "Running Gear Workshop" warnings on the MFI. I got both the orange ones and a red one that instructs you to stop immediately. It reset after parking, and restarting. In summary, I knew I had a problem.
Today, I stopped at the dealer and they confirmed that the fitting at the top of the air shock was in deed leaking. Attached is a photograph showing the fitting. It is important that you inspect these fittings ASAP if you have air suspension. There is a TSB that references corrosion and possible failure. See TSB 43 07 01
Initially I was told that the entire air shock would have to be replaced but after doing research and with the assistance of Spockcat, I discovered that the fitting can be replaced assuming the female portion of the connection is not corroded. Replacing the entire air shock assembly is expensive. Apparently, there have been some instances where the fitting has failed during driving and bad things happen.
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I had left my car for about 30 hours without driving, which I've done before all winter with no issues. Went to start it up yesterday morning to head out and when the key FOB failed to open the door, I knew I was in trouble.
I unlocked the door manually, and put the key in to start it up and the Treg was completely dead and the key wouldn't release from the ignition. After a call to VW roadside assistance, and a jump start, it started right up and I dropped it off at the dealer for them to look at.
The service report says "diag and found low state of charge. charged battery and found passes tests. performed TSB 27-05-01 and cleaned ground point for battery. rechecked OK"
This is a V6 Touareg (there is a similar TSB I understand for V8s).
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Any spec sheet for installing the doors or aligning them. I have been having a problem with the driver's door not sitting properly at the bottom left corner along the A pillar. This causes the first part of the triple seal system [the Touareg has] to be compromised, thus letting in water if submerged.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
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I feel recently that when I am sitting at a red light with my foot on the brake, and the AC blasting, that sometimes the car begins to creep forward until I push harder on the brake. At times, the amount of pressure on the brake pedal is fine to hold the car still, but other times, it isn't.
2007 kia spectra5, 138-hp, 2.0-liter I-4 (regular gas), 4-speed automatic with OD.
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So I have this super cool little green 2001 prius with a brand spankin rebuilt battery and it's running as well as I could have hoped.
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I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
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I started noticing a strange idle when stopping or sitting at a red light. Upon stopping the car idles at around 600, then all of a sudden it jumps to around 1000-1100, and sits there as if I was giving it gas. As I drive off the car drives fine, once I stop again, the same thing repeats. This happen to me 2-3 times already within the past month, I mostly drive on the highway, so that might be a reason I don't notice it often.
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