Touareg :: Spring Noise When First Put It In Drive And Start Moving
Jan 25, 2004
Ok, Lately my Touareg has been making a strange sound in the morning when I first put it in drive and start moving. It sounds like a spring uncoiling or something. The sound is coming from under the floor near the passenger seat as best as I can tell. It only happens for a second but is certainly noticeable. It also happens after being parked for a few hours at work. I love my Touareg but sometimes I wonder if they made it too complicated from an electrical standpoint.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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Noticed with the colder weather that when I first start moving and turning tightly, (lets say out of a parking space both backing out or pulling forward) there is a sound coming from the rear end that sounds like a heavy treaded mud tire rubbing on an inner fender. Tried to read up on it and most posts say change your Haldex fluid, but unfortunately I haven't found a thread that says whats happening. I haven't changed the fluid yet and will. (it is at 16,430 since the last change so its getting close as is). When I engage the parking break one click the noise instantly goes away. Am I hearing clutch chatter, pump going out, just dirty or low fluid?
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A week ago I swapped out my 19's (summer) for the 18's (winter). This probably has nothing to do with the swap, but now I'm hearing a squeak coming form the drive train each time I start from a dead stop. This squeak is noticeable for the first 10-15 feet, then disappears until the next time I accelerate from a stop. I have 14k on the odometer.
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I have a V6. Very happy with it...no real problems, but I do notice a fair amount of drive train gear lash noise when the vehicle is coasting and the windows are open. Is this normal? It not like it sounds really bad and hasn't gotten worse in the 2500 miles since I have my Treg...but I would like to know if it is normal.
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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This car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
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Normally I wait for the car to stop backing up before switching to drive. Today I tried switching to drive while still backing up. It coasted to a stop then went forward.
Is that safe for the traction motor?
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Initially thought I had a clicking valve but the clicking occurs only when I shift to drive and take off. Now I think it may be related to the transmission. Clicking goes away after truck warms up. Checked the spark plugs and all were light brown no black oil.
Generally speaking, is there anything in the trans that would be able to click when the truck is moving? This sound has been around now for about 6 months so I'm stumped. Also checked the ujoints etc....can't find anything wrong.
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Adding cruise control to F350 XL I just bought. I got a steering wheel with the buttons. But I am having problems with the clock spring. Mine has an 8 wire plug with only 6 pins on the big plug and all of the clock springs I have found have only a 6 wire plug for the big one. Without changing my clock spring I have no where to plug in the cruise wiring. All have been for right year model with cruise and even tried different years but none will plug in under the dash.
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Conversion from the dana 50 to the newer dana 60 with coil spring? My Dana 50 has called it quits so while my front end is already off the vehicle already why not make improvements. Ford used the 50 for 1999 to 2002 then upgraded to the 60, I'm guessing it was for a reason!
I've read this article on a similar project but the dana 60 had leaf springs as well: Dana 60 Conversion for F250 years 1986-1996 .: Articles I'd prefer coil spring, nothing more then personal preference with a bit of better ride quality. The donor vehicle is a 06 SRW F250 This is not what I'll be getting but just as an example of the parts I would get.
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I hope i don't give the impression on my very first post that I'm a total retard......but ...I can't figure out for the life of me how to get those spring line coupling apart! I've removed the clips...but it just won't pull apart. Is there a tool to release the garter spring?
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I have a 2001 RAV4 4WD. I gave the car to my sister. When she and other family members drive it, the car revs to 4K rpm without moving, hesitate, then drives. It is dangerous to merge. I know there is a bulletin on this problem for model years 2001 to 2003, and Toyota will replace the ECU and transmission, if damaged, extending the warranty to 150K miles or 10 years (the car has 108K miles, and approaching 10 years). However, no engine light and no code shows up.
We took it to 2 transmission specialists; both will not touch the transmission because they (independent of each other) feel it's the ECU. (We have used them in the past for other cars.) We then took it to 2 Toyota dealerships; Toyota won't fix it, recommends replacing the transmission. We are stuck because we can't get answers and can't get any solutions to our problem.
We called Toyota; the Toyota case worker has been useless, says he sees nothing wrong with the car and said it's safe to drive (it's not, especially when merging). Both local transmission specialists said they would not drive the car in that condition. Right now it's sitting in the driveway, totally useless.
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I've had my truck start making a nice CLUNK from the vicinity of the rear axle when starting moving from a standstill. (and it's a pretty decent thunk sometimes, you hear it AND feel it). I called and made an appt to bring it in and have it checked out (also having the first oil change done and gonna see if they can figure out why the automatic headlights are almost always on even on a bright sunny day) ...
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I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
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i am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
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While this is not for my Touraeg but my 2006 Passat, I cannot get the seat to adjust. It keeps moving back to some default position.
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I was trying to adjust the outside mirrors this morning and noticed that when I move the left mirror, it moves both of them, but if I just try to move the right, only the right one moves. Any possible causes/solutions?
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Just recently bought a 04 greg with 35000 on it one owner pretty much brand new. Its starting to get cold over here in va but I notice the temp gauge wasn't moving when warming truck up. After sitting for 25min it was still at 150 degrees. So I drove home about 10 mi away an when I got home it had just started to move up. This can't be normal.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L with 190,000 miles. My wife was driving it and the vehicle stopped moving. Sounds like the torque converter whining and will not drive in any gear or 4wd.
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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