Touareg :: Shuddering At 30 - 50 MPW With Light Application Of Power
Feb 25, 2005
My V10 is about 8 months old with 14,000 miles. Have only had a few minor problems up till now - periodic tire pressure gauge malfunctions, and a nav system that resets itself, requiring the 4 digit security code to be input. Recently though, it developed what feels like a computer assisted drivetrain problem. At 30-50 MPW with light application of power, the car "shudders" - it feels like riding over rough pavement. If I give it full throttle, it will kick down, accelerate to about 80 MPH @ 3500RPM, rumble like hell, and won't go any faster. If a let off the pedeal, it smooths out again. This has happened a couple of times, then mysteriously cures itself. It is going into the shop next week, but I don't have my hopes up that this intermittent problem will be acting up in front of the doctor.
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I bought a 99 f-250 7.3 a month or so ago and am impressed with the level of knowledge and hospitality you all show. This is my first diesel so I am completely new to a lot of the issues that occur with one and many of the diagnostic tests needed to troubleshoot.
When I purchased the truck the guy said it was very cold natured and I would have to plug in the block heater if it got chilly out. I didn't realize just how bad that problem was and have since had to keep it plugged in even on very mild nights to get a quick start. I have been very careful to let it warm up for 15-20 mins before I start driving it.
Also, I have noticed at around 40-55 MPH and light pressure on the gas I get a shudder, it was worse before I added a friction modifier to the oil but it is still there constant in overdrive.
As I was driving two or three days ago in a light rain (the first since I bought the truck) I noticed the SES pop on and stay on. Being new to the diesel world I immediately pulled into Autozone and tried to get a code, but with no luck. The truck has been running a bit rougher since the light came on and I am noticing a marginal power loss.
So my questions are: Where can I get the codes pulled off? I have been looking at buying a scan tool but the AE is out of my price range and the other options seem to have mixed results. Also, do any of the problems seem to be related or could it just be a few different issues that need to be ferreted out? From what I've read it seems possible for the UVCH to be the issue here, is that correct?
Again, I am really new to diesels so I may have been having loss of power even before this and not known it due to my inexperience.
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I have a problem with my VW Touareg 05 plate. When I turn the steering wheel full lock left or right in tight places the car shudders. It doesn't do it all the time but does appear to be getting worse as time goes on. I have been told that it may well be the Stepper motor.
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
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Brakes are too agressive on the Passat 3.6L 4Motion? Seems like the initial application, especially at slower speeds is too jerky. You have to be very soft on the pedal so as to not get your passengers hit the dash...
While you do want brakes that grab, I think that the modulation needed is beyond most drivers talent in order to execute a smooth stop without jerking.
I track my other car, so I'm familiar with brake modulation and race pads but again for a normal driver, this does not seem normal. The Audi A6 Bi-turbo is much smoother.
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The last few days, my neck of the woods has seen the first taste of winter. Had to make a 4 hour highway trip today, of which the last 2 hours involved driving over ice-packed and slushy roads, mixed with salt and sand. Needless to say, the body and undercarriage are a real mess.
When I made it to my destination, I noticed a clunking from the rear brakes with every pedal application. As my thread title indicates, the car has only 6,000 km. Also, I am very gentle on brakes. I'm not the type of driver who speeds up to a traffic light or stop sign, then slams on the brakes.
I'm thinking (hoping) the cause of the clunking is some wintery road crap has found it's way into the brakes. I guess I'll find out after a trip to the car wash.
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I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
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05 Camry, 2.4L, 47K. Replaced the front brake pads two months ago. I put in Akebono pads and did nothing with the rotors as the original pads were not completely worn out and there is no vibration whatsoever in the pedal.
The pads have recently started making noise on brake application. I'm getting ready to take them back apart and re-lube everything. Should I take some sandpaper to the pads & rotors to knock off any glazing? Do I hit it with a course or fine grit? I have not had this problem happen in the past and was thinking that maybe it is the quality of the pads but I believe these are oem...
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A few weeks ago on a short drive, my car (2000 Toyota Corolla) started shuddering/pulsating when I was stopped at a red light (and it kept doing that intermittently as I drove the few blocks home.) Next time I tried to start it, it turned over but then died. Towed it to the mechanic, he said it was a dead ignition coil, he replaced the coil and it was able to start again.
Less than a week (and not much driving - 50 miles tops) later, on the highway, it starts shuddering again, feels way underpowered, and the check engine flashes. It's pretty scary. I pull over and have it towed to the mechanic. (It still starts up but doesn't feel safe to drive, plus the check engine light is flashing.) First he says one of the fuel injectors needs to be replaced, then he says that on further testing it was actually another dead ignition coil. He replaces the ignition coil (he didn't end up replacing the fuel injector) and I pick up the car.
It's fine on the drive home (which is about 3 city miles, no highway driving) and on another neighborhood errand, and the check engine light isn't on, but now it's sort of shuddering again. I don't want to keep driving it and/or try it on the highway to wait for it to get worse.
I guess I'll take it in again tomorrow, but does this seem odd at all? I know some people replace all 4 ignition coils at once pre-emptively, but it would seem strange for 3 to fail within ~150 miles (assuming this is yet another ignition coil.) What else might be going on? I had the spark plugs changed last year so those should be fine. The car has pretty low miles on it (about 100k) for the age.
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.
I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position easy to be towed. So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.
I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.
For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.
I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder. As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System.
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My Ford Escape was just serviced at 120K Miles. After about two weeks it started shuddering between 40 and 55 miles an hour. It got worse and after about 4 weeks the Check engine light came on. I took it back to my mechanic and the read out said it had a misfiring piston. What does this mean exactly? How does one fix it, prevent it from happening again?
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I’m facing what might be a major issue with my 2007 Prius, 80k miles, very well cared for with no major issues or accidents. The problem started a few days ago, when I drove my car for the first time in a week, so it had been sitting for awhile. This was after a month-long cold spell in which temps were often close to 0, with lots of snow, and I keep my car outside, which means many days of scraping ice and snow off the car with it running (along with the defroster and heat). I only work part-time, and the car often sits for a few days or longer at a time without being driven.
The problem is this: I was on my way to work a few miles away and was stopped at a red light, and the car all of a sudden “shuddered” rather violently, with what sounded like the engine revving up, then switching back to silent mode, then revving up again, and so on. It freaked me out, but the light turned green and the car drove normally to my destination. Then, on my way home an hour later, a bunch of warning lights showed up: master warning, VSC, check engine, brake system, as well as hybrid system light on the center screen (car with ! through it). I pulled over, turned off the car, waited a bit, turned it back on, all the same lights were on. Drove it home with no problems. Turned it on the next day, same lights.
I decided to drive the car around for a bit to try and charge up the battery, in case that was the issue after all the cold weather and sitting around not being driven regularly. After driving it around, turning it off, then turning it back on, the brake system and VSC lights disappeared, but the rest remained. I continued driving the car for another day, and it did that same strong shuddering thing with weird engine noises while at one red light, but drove normally otherwise.
I then researched a bit more and found out how to check the health of the battery myself by holding down the display button, turning lights on and off three times, etc. The three voltage readings were all within the proper range. When I turned the car back on after completing the battery check, all of the warning lights were gone. I figured the issue had been the battery after all and that driving the car around had brought it back up to normal voltage, with the battery check resetting the system. BUT today the car did the same strong shuddering with weird engine noises while stopped at a red light. I continued driving and made it home just fine, without the issue occurring again, but this is the third time it’s done this in a week, and I’m a little freaked out by it.
Two notes:
*A little over a year ago I replaced the original battery (which died) with an Optima yellow top battery made for the Prius.
*Several weeks ago, after a major snow/ice storm, I was driving home from work when I went over either a deep pothole or hard ice formation, and the impact was really loud and scary—I actually screamed. But the car continued driving normally all the way home, and I examined the wheel area and surrounding parts with a flashlight and nothing seemed out of place. I drove the car a bunch of times in the following weeks with no issues, so this incident is probably unrelated to the problem I’m experiencing now, but I though it worthwhile to mention.
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E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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My truck shudders bad between 50 and 60 mph. I have about 7,000 miles on my 2013 F350 diesel. 4x4, single rear wheel automatic. My truck has had this issue since I drove it off the lot. I replaced the tires and wheels with after market 20 inch wheels and toyo mud terrain tires, added a leveling kit and installed a K&N intake at 2000 miles. When driving between 50 and 60 mph with a steady pedal my truck begins to shudder. You can hear the noise coming from the intake, which is not the problem. The boost is registering almost no boost what so ever. The problem mainly occurs in 6th gear with no load or a light load. The entire trucks shakes.
Since I put more miles on my truck each day the problem seems to be getting worse. Not to mention my mpg has drop since I first got the truck from 18-20 to an astonishing 14-15. I took it to the dealer the other day to let them figure it out. They put stock wheels,tires,intake back on the truck for testing. They determined that the shuddering happens between 1400-1700 rpms. They told me they couldn't find anything wrong with the truck and said it was my wheels. They mentioned that with the stock stuff on it was less noticeable. They also said that with stock wheels and tires it went away. Which I know is crap cause I had stock on the truck for 2,000 miles if not more. Now this is a given for anyone who puts mud terrain or all terrain tires on their truck, MPG will suffer some and there will be noise and vibration. However, this is more than a vibration from tires. I have only owned trucks all my life with bigger tires and wheels on them.
I walked out of the dealership having to pay them money because they said it was due to my wheels. My wheels are 0.4 inches off from stock and my tires are the exact same height as stock just wider. Knowing a decent amount of mechanics and how to put my pants on each morning, I was not satisfied with their conclusion. I mentioned if it was my wheels and tires why wouldn't it do it all the time. It's not like I replace my wheels when I'm driving down the road. I believe that they couldn't figure it out so they said it was my wheels and tires to charge me for the time. Just yesterday I was driving on a long trip and it was shuddering, then the cleaning exhaust filter notification came on and the shuddering stopped. I noticed this and tried to make it shudder, couldn't do it. This reinforced my theory that the dealership is less than knowledgeable.
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Have a 2001 Corolla with 150k miles on it. It isn't straight up dying, but it is shuddering when driving at slower speeds or while stopped at a stop light. Have had the air intake looked at so that shouldn't be it. Sometimes the lights on the dash will dim when this happens but not sure if it might be a battery issue or that is just happening because the car is dying.
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Just bought my 2013 Platinum 350 DRW 2 weeks ago. 9,000 miles on it. I was cruising along yesterday at around 45 mph in 6th gear going up a slight incline. Truck was fairly low rpm don't remember what exactly. As I'm going up this hill it begins to shudder quite a bit almost seemed like the turbo shuddering while lugging up the hill at a low rpm in 6th. I stepped into the throttle to get it to downshift into 5th and it stopped. I never experienced anything remotely like this in my 2011 6.7.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I was driving down the road and the car was driving great. all of the sudden I heard a clunk and the car lost power and started shuddering. I made it home and cut the car off. When I start it now, the car runs rough and stalls out. I can't get it to a place to check the codes so I am trying to self diagnose. I was thinking it might be the MAF so I took it out and cleaned it well. there is still no change in the way the car runs. it seems like the fuel isn't getting to the engine as I put my foot on the gas pedal it stalls out. I'm not too excited about buying a throttle body if it's the MAF. It could possibly be something else.
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