Touareg :: Sharp Metal Hitting Sound When Front Driver And Passenger Door Closing
Apr 23, 2006
Sometimes when closing either the front driver or passenger door, it seems as though the door is not closing properly and it sounds like the latches are striking metal against metal. The doors always close and the noise does not occur all the time, in fact it occurs on a very seldom basis. The noise is very annoying and definitely does not sound right. I can not repeat the problem at will and I fear the dealer will not be able to locaate, unless it happens just as they close the door. The doors do close tight, but the sound is awful (sharp metal hitting metal sound).
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I notice that when I close my door, it actually sounds like metal on metal. Looking closely it doesn't appear to line up well with the latch on the door.
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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
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I have been having two issues.
1.) Everytime I go to back up in my car the whole car starts shaking back in forth like someone is at the front and back rocking it.
2.) After my car has been driven around for a bit and I return to campus to look for parking spaces sometimes I have to back up because there aren't any. Whenever I go to back up, it makes this loud sound like a bat hitting a metal pole and it can be felt throughout the car. It does it all the time now.
I am beginnning to get scared to take this thing offroading. Also whenever I shift from P to R it makes this loud THUNK sound. I am going to let the dealer look at it when I take it in for the 10K service.
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My driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
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When I shut my driver's door there is a reverberating sound similar to a spring being stretched and then plucked. It closes fine, the window works, and all the functions of the door work. It closes tight. It just has this hollow spring sound right after I close the door. None of the other doors make this sound.
I was at the local Toyota Dealer today for work on the prius (check my other thread about that trip) and I found a gen II prius unlocked... so I got in and closed the door and no spring sound. It sounded just like my other 3 doors... so something must be up with my door. My car is a 2006 Prius with JBL package.
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I'm still shopping around trying to find the right ES. I test drove a very clean 2008 today save for 2 things. The interior smelled a little stale. Can't figure out if it was cleaning solvents that were used or if it's a cleaning product mixed with light smoker smell. That was the only thing I noticed initially until I got in for a quick test drive and closed the drivers door.
When I closed the drivers door it had a hollow gong-like sound, like if you hit a big empty metal barrel. A 'bung' sound. I haven't noticed this on other ES's I've checked out. You can kind of pick out the noise on the passenger door on this car, but it's very muted. The passenger door sounds like it's supposed to sound. It sounds solid, more 'chunk'. You could pick out the slight 'bung' if you were listening for it, but normally, all you hear is 'chunk'. But, there's no missing it in the drivers door. There's no rattle in the door or the car in general. Initially, I thought maybe the speaker was loose, but nothing is moving in the door, it just 'bungs' when you close it. Maybe it's out of alignment? It looked straight.
Is there sound proofing in the door that could be missing or loose from a repair?
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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I just got a call from my VW Dealer. He stated that while performing my 10k service, he noticed that there was a crack on my lower engine cover (splash guard) on my front passenger side and that the tire was worn on the inside almost to the metal. He stated that a driver must of hit a curb or a pot hole at a high speed to cause this type of damage... My wife and myself are the only ones who drive it and we are sure we have not hit any curbs or gone over any pot holes at HIGH speeds... some pot holes but nothing my old jeep couldn't handle...
My complaint is that I was hoping that the TReg would turn out to be the off road beast that VW has advertised it to be, but am disappointed that only after 10k miles I need an alignment and a tire change and have not even been off road... what should I expect in the years to come.. I am hoping to not have to treat this Truck like a car...
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4000 miles on my CW Golf R - zero problems until this morning. WILD, Loud sqealing, screeching metal on metal or maybe stone on metal sound coming from front passenger wheel. at first i was positive it was a pebble caught b/t the inside rotor and heat shield - i took the tire off and nothing there.. Also only really does it when I turn RIGHT.
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
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Last night while driving in the ice and snow storm we had in the north east my passenger side wiper started acting funny was hitting the driver side wiper and not going full cycle. I think there is something wrong with the linkage,the driver side works fine bringing it in for service Monday.
2006 V10
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It goes on and off with a buzzing sound. less so with the radio than with the satellite radio which is wired through the cd plug in the trunk..
Sometimes goes back on when you hid a bump like there's a poor connection.
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I have a 2005 Phaeton V8. 69k miles...not one issue until today when she was about to recieve her saturday bath-
I got into the car to back out into the drive- and noticed that the door didn't close all the way- I had to pull the door to get it closed. I went around assessing to see if the other doors would close- and they all do just fine. The power trunk works properly- Just this drivers door- So after she got her bath- shes been garaged and I dont want to drive her risking somethings wrong.
Is there a fuse to pull to reset the pump? Do I dare disconnect the battery (I've never had to do that on this car yet). Just wanting to avoid a trip to the dealer-
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So, I go out to my car, unlock, open the driver side door... zzzzzzzz (not a hisssssssss) comes from under the car towards the rear suspension. I do not have the air suspension, so I'm guessing that the car thinks I do and probably has modules for it. One of those modules happens to be thinking I do and is trying to lower the car for my entry?
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1400 miles now and loving it. When I open the driver's side door, I hear a motor sound not too dissimilar to the sound the seat makes when I insert the key. The sound lasts about three seconds. I was wondering what this sound is.
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I have a 2005 Touareg TDI european model, with an anoying whistling sound somewhere in the drivers door or the b-pillar. The sound is not constant, but change according to the settings to the fan. I have been to the VW dealer, but they have not found any solution to my the problem yet.
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I noticed the bottom dark grey trim on the front passenger door is sticking out. Looks like the panel/trim is prying away from the door.
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I guess the roof needs adjustment since my driver side door won't close if the window is up all the way.
Checked the roof and found there is a larger gap on the passenger side than on the driver side. That causes the unevenness of the roof, I think.
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Undercarriage rattling when closing the driver door? Sounds metal and rattles for a split second. It caught me off guard the other day and here's a video of it.
2014 IS 350 F Sport Rattle - YouTube ...
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