Touareg :: Scraping Sound Through Accelerator Pedal Immediately After Starting Engine
Aug 7, 2004
I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
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My Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
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V10 TDI doesnt give any boost when accelerator pedal is flattenned. What could be wrong.
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When I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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I have a 1995 volvo 850 t5. Basically, the engine is making a clicking sound. Immediately on start up, which continues when i drive. In saying that, I've been only doing 5 minute drives so perhaps its not running long enough to go away.
So today, i started it. Car starts ticking. The ticking is like 3 or 4 seconds apart between clicks, and the idle seems to change slightly each time it clicks.
I checked the oil and it was a little low. So i put 2 litres in, and then i ran the car (idling) to see if it would go away. Just for a few minutes. It did seem to go away, but then i gave it a little rev and it came back.
So in summary, clicks on start, idle and while driving. Idle changes slightly between clicks. And there is a few seconds between clicks.
Just checked it again. If i leave it idling the click stops but as soon as there are more revs, it comes back. And the noise is almost like the click of a switch (like when your kettle finishes boiling and the switch flicks off. Not the best comparison but similar).
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Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.
There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.
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Last night I jumped into my Treg to move it into my garage. When I pushed the brake pedal to move the gear selector out of park, I heard a whooshing sound. Like the sound of a bellows-type foot pump I use to inflate my dinghy. I could also feel a slight amount of movement in the transmission lock button on the top left side of the shifter when doing this.
Now I'm noticing this noise whenever I apply the brakes. It doesn't appear to affect braking performance, but does have me wondering. I'll have the dealer check this out when I take the Treg in for the recent recall (got my notice yesterday).
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About once or twice a month my 2000 Trailblazer dies immediately on starting. Will not start again for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes rest it always restarts. Never dies while running. Have had fuel pump replaced about five years ago. Condition has been occurring about that long though and has progressed from once each 3 or 4 months to its current rate. Can occur after setting all night or after having just run and shut down for a very short time. Natural assumption would be fuel pump but as it always restarts on second attempt after 10 minute rest is there any possibility it could be a computer malfunction that takes that long to reset?
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1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
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I have a new 2013 Ford Fiesta with less than 2000 miles on it. While I am at a stop sign, I step on the gas, and the car does not go immediately. It feels like my foot slips off the gas pedal, although I know that is not the case because my foot is still on the pedal! I have to ease off the gas pedal just a bit until the car will go into first gear and get some momentum. It only happens every once in a while, not every time I am at a stop sign.I checked with the dealer and of course he said it is the way I'm driving it. He said I don't need to step on the gas like it is a sports car. I'm not driving it like Mario Andretti. I'm just trying to get around town with a bit of efficiency. If you are familiar with Chicago city driving, you know the drivers behind you don't have time to wait for my little Ford Fiesta to eventually kick into gear. I don't have any issues with it going from 3rd to 4th or 2nd to 3rd gear.
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I have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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I got the clutch replaced on my 1993 Toyota Corolla (~160,000mi.) by a shop and immediately afterward started having really bad front end vibration problems. I took it back to the shop & they said that changing the clutch may have caused already worn out motor mount(s) to be stressed and that was causing the vibration. They want time with the car to figure out which motor mount it might be. My question is, is it reasonable that a properly performed clutch change caused the motor mount problems? Or is this the result of sloppy work? I realize the car is old, but I have always maintained it well since I bought it in 2004.
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I've taken out the 2 bolt covers, taken out the T30 bolt, and have loosened the gas pedal a bit. But I can't pry the gas pedal upwards with a flat head screwdriver. I'm pulling and yanking this pedal up and back towards the front of the car and it won't pop off! Are there any tricks to getting this pedal off?
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I have an 02' Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 (not flex fuel) .I have replaced the battery, alternator, sparkplugs/wires, fuel pump, fuel filter. All over time and now when i try to start the van it turns over strong sometimes starting then stalls out immediately. When I try to crank it sounds like metal on metal. Check engine light stays on,but i dont have an OBD reader.
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