Whilst driving unloaded, I mean the car is not under load, in say 5th gear , if I go to increase acceleration I often get a sudden unsmooth change to 4th. The change is not the normal smooth change down but a very abrupt clunk back to the lower gear. This is intermittent and hard to demonstrate to the dealer for repair.
View 4 RepliesI have been fixing up my 77 F150 since I got it in January and it's really starting to look nice! I love this truck, but I have noticed a clunk sound when I put it in reverse and also a same if not similar sound when I'm driving and slow down. It makes a clunk sound when it shifts to a lower gear, (automatic). Now, I was thinking it was a U joint at some point and crawled under there and started to grab them and see if there was any play in any of the spots but found no play. I checked it a few times, thinking well it could be just the point the U joint stopped and that would explain no play but after a few times of crawling under I still never found any.
View 8 RepliesI have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
Seems like the problems just keep building up. Today leaving work T-reg shifts fine untill it got to 5th gear. It was around 35 mph. Went to give it more gas and it never shifted out of 5th to a lower gear. It did accelerate but even with pedal to the floor it never downshifted. Whats going on. It has done it twice in the past two days. After only having it on the road for less than 5 min each time.
View 6 RepliesToday (not 2 days after taking delivery) I was travelling on the highway. stopped for fuel and as I am decelerating on the offramp when the truck shifted from 5th to 4th it went CLUNK, It did this twice, in the same circumstance. I can't make it replicate the noise every time. But 2 times in 24 hours is enough.
View 10 RepliesTurns out the brains of the transmission are not working. Valve body to be replaced under warranty. We were getting severe Clunk between 4and 5 gear and 5/6. It was more pronounced going up hill and when towing. Actually scared me a few times with severity of the noise and shudder of the vehicle. Will take a week for parts and warranty work to be done. I assume it is a very expensive undertaking.
View 2 Replieswhen i bought the t-reg the next day we drove 12 hours to NC, and every time we were on the pike for a while then pulled into a service plaza to refuel or take a break the treg would all of a sudden either jam the brakes or lug the transmission really abrupt just for a instant [URL]....................... it is hard to tell which it is. Kind of like not pulling in the clutch when coming to a stop..
View 4 RepliesThis is the not about the plagued 2007/2008 ES350 with the tranmission issue. This is more of a generic issue. My car is a 2009 Lexus ES350 Premium line and was bought as a CPO from a Lexus dealership in Feb 2013. Currently mileage is ~98k KM
Issue: From a cold start and driving the car coming to a complete stop, I've noticed that the shifting from higher gear (2 or 3) down to the first gear at around 15-20 km/h is very abrupt. This is a little bit noticeable during the warm summer months and more pronounced during the winter cold months.
Changes: 1) Flushed transmission fluid last summer at Lexus dealership when the car was at ~78k KM, the issue is still present in the summer but a little less obvious.
What I know about the car is that:Cold start of car, the engine's RPM runs higher until car switches from open to closed loop operation (or was it from close to open loop?) When engine runs at higher RPM, car would want to lunge forward a bit. This is normal and expected. Anyway to assist the engine warm-up faster? (Coolant change? Thermostat change?)
Once the car starts to warms-up (i.e. thermostat shows at about 1/4 of the entire gauge range). This is no longer an issue. When car is fully warmed-up the gauge is at about 1/2 marking as a reference point. So when car is starting to warm-up, is the transmission fluid warming up faster than the engine due to the shifting? Or is the fluid warming up due to the warmth from the engine bay?
Desired Final Results: We all know that Lexus are well known for a smooth and comfortable ride. And from a cold start, the shift characteristics isn't smooth. What can be done to solve this issue?
I have a '99 F250 SuperDuty Diesel with an Automatic Transmission. There is a button on the end of the gear shift which allows you to turn off overdrive -- in other words the transmission won't shift into overdrive once you press the button.
Here's my problem. I start off driving normally. I've not done nothing to the overdrive button and the truck shifts normally into overdrive. 10-15 minutes down the road, the overdrive light (which indicates the state of the overdrive button) is FLASHING. Pressing the button doesn't stop the flashing. Once this flashing starts, the only thing I notice is a much more abrupt shift from 1 -> 2 gear.
I am new to the all wheel drive breed. When I turn the all wheel drive knob one click over to the right (4x4 low I believe) how much rougher should the shifting be. I notice it starts in 2nd gear, but 2-3 shift jolts the car to the point it almost snaps your neck(not WOT just normal accelaration). Each subsequent shift is a little smoother, but still very noticably rough. Is this normal? Even in the regular high mode, sometimes my regular around town low throttle shifts are pretty jolting.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 Elantra (54,000 miles) shifts really, really hard when it's not cold and passes through the 35 mph range -- hard enough to make you glad you've got your seatbelt on. I've taken it to my regular mechanic and now it's in an automatic transmission shop.
My mechanic changed the fluid (twice), and took it through a "learning sequence". The fluid didn't look that bad and he reported that there were no codes to work with. He thinks I'm going to have to get a new transmission.
The AT shop has confirmed that there are no codes to work with and that the problem begins at 143 degrees. They tell me that the transmission is shifting into a higher gear without releasing the lower gear. They tried replacing a couple of solenoids, but that yielded no change in behavior. Now, they're telling me they "think" I need a new computer. I'm just afraid the trial & error approach is going to cost me a boat-load.
Driving home today I was cruising along hwy about 50mph. I threw the shifter over to the manual mode and noticed immediately that it must put it into a lower gear than I was in when I was in automatic bc the rpm jumped up a little higher. I think it put me in 4th or 5th?? I put it back in auto mode and rpms went back to normal. I'm guessing it's the normal way it operates?
View 4 RepliesI have a clunking sound coming from the back end. It is most noticeable at lower speeds going over bumps. I can also make the clunk happen by grabbing the top of the right rear tire and rocking it. I can feel something moving while I am doing this, but I can't pinpoint it. The bushings seem to be in good condition. The left rear wheel bearing was replaced recently. I also have an intermittent brake pulsation which feels like a warped rotor. I don't think it is actually the rotor, because it doesn't happen every time I apply the brakes. I believe that these two things are related. Is it possible for the rear struts to cause these issues?
View 13 RepliesI went to the local dealer at about 6K miles to get the free 5K service. The invoice said synthetic service, so it should be the 0W-20. Now the average mileage since the last fill-up is lower by at least 3-4 MPG. My driving habits haven't changed. I inflated the tires to above 40 PSI. I looked at the oil. It is medium amber colored. (I forgot to look at it before the oil change. )
View 19 RepliesExperienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
Just had my 20,000 mile service yesterday on my Prius Plug In and got 10-15mpg loss in gas mileage today. It seems like ECO mode isn't even working anymore because MPG just drops to 15 MPG when you accelerate pass the half way point.
I'll take it back to dealership tomorrow? It should have only been a oil change and oil filter change. Reading some old threads makes me thing they put in the wrong oil?? It says 0W20 on service contract but not sure if correct.
I have a 7.3 2003 Excursion. Should I change the gearing in the rear differential to make the truck go faster at lower RPMs? I know that will decrease my towing capability.
View 12 RepliesMy friends and family think I'm crazy, since three weeks ago, we went out and bought an '11 CC Sport for my wife . . . but I digress.
I've got a 2004 V6 Touareg. Frankly, it's been doing very well for the last 30K miles (I'm at 93K right now) -- knock on wood. However, just today, I noticed and confirmed that there is NO air coming from the lower vents. I've got a two zone system and when I change the settings to force air to come just out of those vents nothing. You can feel air coming from both the windshield vent and dash vents -- and what I think is that I have a damper that's not moving anymore.
The whole reason I even tried to do this, is over the last couple of months, I've noticed two things coming from the dash -- one, a cricket sound (kinda like a bearing squeaking), and two, a light clicking sound that can best be described as a damper seeking a setting. It occurred to me a damper isn't working right.
2004 CD Navigation. The issue is that I can't get the damn navigation volume to go any lower. The navigation volume is a touch too loud relative to the music volume. When I try to lower the navigation volume, it's already at the lowest mark on the scale.
(Yes I set the navigation volume while it's speaking). Maybe there is some way to reset the mid-point in volume and then I can lower it?
One of my reflectors is cracked in the lower front valence. The part is $30 but labor to replace it is $50-60. How easy it is too do. I am fairly mechanically inclined as long as I don't have the take the bumper off...
View 4 RepliesMy 06 sonata ran fine for about 3 miles today and then started to sputter at stop signs until I got up to speed. Upon restarting it at work the check engine light came on. Took it to a parts store and put the tester on it.
Error codes p0300 (random misfire), p0022 (Intake camshaft position), p0018 Crankshaft position Bank 2 sensor A, and p0304,306 (misfires on cylinder 4 and 6). Taking it to a Hyundai dealer tomorrow? Is my motor turning into a brick?
Had a recent oil changes and have driven it a thousand miles or so since. Hoping my wife didn't put E85 in it or something when she filled it up but that was about 100 miles ago so I doubt it would be running fine that long.