Touareg :: Rear Window Sun Shade Stuck In Open Position
Aug 6, 2004
My darling wife just called me and told me that one of the people that she was transporting in our egg this afternoon pulled up the passenger-side rear sunshade and hooked it on the clips at the top. Then apparently he just rested his arm on the ledge and they heard some sort of "pop" noise. Then, when he unhooked the sun shade to retract it back into the door it wouldn't pull back and retract so it's stuck in the "open" position. I'm guessing it's a simple matter of popping off the door skin and resetting something that's popped/snapped off.
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My September 2003 Touareg did not come with child window shades. Is there anything I can do to install one? My wife is disappointed as it is an exception option with children?????
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I flipped my center arm rest open (2-button version in a V8) and it just is stuck in the open position now.
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So my sunroof is stuck open and the shade is all the way forward. When I try to close it the glass touches the shade and then goes back to the open position..
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My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
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2011 Santa Fe limited fwd
Bought as 6 month old demo in 2011 and from day one rear driver side power window has gone up and down slower than other three windows. Going up decidedly worse. My fault for not having it looked at while still under warranty.
Behavior the same using either driver's switch or the rear switch.
Well, now it occasionally gets stuck in down position. Neither switch works. But, if I press switch and pull up on window I can eventually get it to close.
I looked at other posts and saw no clear solution for this intermittent problem.
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Well I have had my T-Reg for 24 hours and only have one issue. The rear window on the hatch will not open. We read the manual multiple times and it states you just unlock the hatch and than hold the button underneath the wiper and it should open. No luck. Looks like it could be some electrical thing.
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I have used (or tried to) the rear window exactly twice over the last year or so and it has never opened easily.Is there some trick to opening the rear window? I've searched the manual and threads and have come up empty.
As reference here is what I've tried to open it:
-Using the key fob and door buttons to unlock the "trunk"
-Pushed button under the wiper blade housing then pulled the housing to open the window
-Pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
-Used the door button to unlock the trunk and immediately ran to the back of the truck to open the window
-Used the convenience function (meaning did not push any buttons)and pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
BTW, the hatch is always closed when I try to open the window.
As I said, I used some combination of the above to open the window twice after numerous attempts. Last night I tried everything and could not get the darn thing to open so I used the ski bag and rear seat pass-though to store what I needed while the front of it rested on the front passengers' armrest. I don't think anything is broken, it is likely that I just don't know how the darn thing works and the manual stinks.
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Just purchased a 2013 Lexus GS 350 Luxury with 22,000 miles. I took it to Lexus service for a recall and the rear window shade was not closing on one side. Service declined to cover it under warranty because they claim it was broke by a child or person. I purchased the GS 350 at Manheim using me dealer friends incense. The inoperable rear window shade was in the condition report but I never thought Lexus would not repair it under warranty....
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My wife or my daughter (neither will take the blame) pulled the Sun Screen up/out to far and now it won't retract back into the door. How to get it to retract again, without taking the door apart?
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Every so often when I open the rear window, my MFI will report it "open" even when it's not. Thus far the only solution I have found is that I have to exit the vehicle re-open and re-close the rear window. I have checked the rear window to see if it was open or loose - but it's been secured each time.
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Is it easy to replace the retractable rear window shade? My wife stuck something in the back and when it moved up, it tore the screen.
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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Ok , so now my sun shade is broken and set at 80% open. It will not move at all. 07 GS350. It was fun while it lasted.
Oh wait and my rear-view mirror has a bunch of black inside the mirror.
I will probably have a bunch of stuff for sale soon. BC-R coils with Swift springs , AC front lip, Rear ISF difuser, Lexus Japan Visors and some mods.
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This morning i realized that my rear shade did not completely extend. Is this an easy fix or do i have to go to the dealer?
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The drivers side rear door on our 2004 T'reg is stuck shut. Neither the interior or exterior door handle will open the door. I tried locking/unlocking it a few times, both with the remote and with the interior button. Is this a simple fix, or is it off to the dealership with me?
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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Toyota camry SE 2012. The sunroof is stuck on the open position. It is fully open and the motor does not make any noise. The fuse is ok. Nothing seems stuck on the track just from a quick glance. I am hoping to find a way to manually close it if it is possible.
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The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
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My driver's side air vent is stuck in the open position. I can coax it down with a piece of wire, and it will then (sort of) engage with the motor and move up automatically when activated (again with a bit of coaxing), but then gets stuck again... Not sure if it's the motor or gears/teeth on the vent itself...? Looking for instructions for removing the motor? Apparently it's straight-forward...?
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In May the driver's side window mechanism (motor + "window regulator" are the primary parts) self destructed on my 2002 Hyundai Accent and left the window stuck in the down position. Since the car only has 35,000 miles on it, and since I live in a cold climate and didn't lower the windows much, I concluded it was a manufacturing failure.
So rather than spend about $700 to have the mechanism redone, I elected for 1/10 as much money to have a body shop remove the mechanism and wedge up the window in the up position permanently with blocks and screws. Since I was told by a couple of mechanics that this type of failure occurs in other vehicles, I was still sticking by Hyundai and planning to buy another one 3-5 years from now.
But I have been forced to change my plans. Today (in September) the passenger side window mechanism self destructed and, once again, left the window stuck in the down position! Naturally, I am going to have the same solution applied to the passenger side window now. As a result of this (and an unbelievable brake problem that I don't have time to get into) I have been forced to change my mind and can no longer support Hyundai.
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