Touareg :: Rattle Noise From The Ignition Lock
Nov 26, 2005
This rattle from the ignition lock is really annoying and comes from the ignition lock, it sounds like some friction b/w metallic objects.
View 3 RepliesThis rattle from the ignition lock is really annoying and comes from the ignition lock, it sounds like some friction b/w metallic objects.
View 3 RepliesWhen I turn my ignition off, I can hear some rattling. Took it to the dealership many times. They hear it but can't pinpoint where it comes from.
Had a VW specialist come in and took a look. Saw the VF motor mounts and said "He hears it too but the mounts could be the cause"
The head mechanic and the service advisor told me if I could figure out the noise they would still fix it under warranty.
My Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
View 4 RepliesI just noticed after I turn the car off the noise that is usually a hum is now a very high pitched noise, until that motor turns off.
View 1 RepliesWhat this might be. I have a rattle type noise coming from behind the glovebox. It is only there at low speeds and driving on poorly paved roads. It is definitely not in the glovebox. It has been driving me crazy for some time now...
View 3 RepliesI tried to search for this, so I might be alone here, had a rattling noise coming from the right rear seat / seatbelt area?
View 24 RepliesWent to pick up my Touareg tonight. Took it for a quick test drive and there was a noise and rattle coming from the steering column when you hit bumps. It sounded like metal on metal. The tech guy drove it with me and agreed something is wrong. They put it up on the rack but I left because I had been there for one hour and that was already past my mental limit for being in a car dealership. I didn't sign the paperwork. Told them to call me when they figure it out and I'll come back and buy it if the problem is not significant. Everything was going great until then.
View 2 RepliesI started my car and a chain rattle noise then the check engine light popped on. now I have two codes, p1340 and p0012 codes for camshaft issues.
View 1 RepliesI have an 2005 VW Touareg. I purchased it 1 month ago with 8919 miles on it. I love the thing! However I have a rattle coming from the part that is below the passenger dash. The good thing is it only rattles when i hit a big bump, however when u pay 30k + this is the last thing you want to hear. See Pic. How to remove this black panel so i may fix it? Dealer was no luck the typical "I didn't hear any rattles" ....
View 1 Replies2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
I have a 99 explorer and the Ignition Lock Cylinder went out. I have ordered the parts and plan on changing it out myself. i was just wonders about any do's or don'ts.
View 1 RepliesSo I am hearing a weird noise when I start up my Tig after it's been sitting at least overnight. I'm not sure when it started because if the windows are up when I start I can't hear it inside, so for all I know it's been happening since before the warm weather arrived. But anyway... It's a brief rattle, kind of high and plastic-y, like maybe a half-second long or less, when I first start up. If I turn it off and then start it again, no rattle. Don't hear it again until the Tig has sat for a while.
No CELs or anything or other signs of trouble. It's a 2014 with 24k miles, bought CPO at 19k.
My car was having the problem with key not turning and was getting worse over time. Finally decided to replace it, but didn't want two sets of keys or to replace all locks in the car or pay dealer $550 to do it for me.
I bought the new $135 lock from the dealer and swapped the tumblers out from the old unit. Here is my document on how to do it. [URL] .....
Lock cylinder needs replacing. Was stuck in the off position and would not rotate. Finally freed it up so I can remove the cylinder.
Question is, will the key that comes with the new cylinder need to be programed. If so how is this done?
Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
View 30 RepliesThis is an annoying thing. for example when i just have to step out for 3 seconds and grab my mail I don't want to shut off the entire car and restart it.
1) Is there a way to leave the ignition running and get out of the vehicle and lock it?
2) I heard we can go to the dealer to enable the remote start feature, is this true? or would we need to do a 3rd party addon?
2008 lexus es350 i have
I just bought a new 2006 prius and have an issue with the FOB (it's pretty beat up from use -- ordered a new housing for it)...
It works great for locking and unlocking the car with the key in pocket, but as soon as I sit down to turn on the car, I get the beep and key icon flashing on the dash and no activity.
Only when I insert the key into the slot will the car turn on. The Key disable button under the steering wheel is not engaged.
Again, it recognizes for locking button and unlocking when I touch the handle, but I have to physically plug it in for the car to start....
So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
I have tried all the tricks on the internet and still can't get the key unlocked, so I am ready to just replace the part. Is this something my son can do or is it very complicated?
View 1 RepliesI have an impala with a missing ignition lock cylinder. How to bypass the security with this component missing or know where to find the wiring schematic for this model. Every schematic I've found on the web aren't complete circuits.
View 5 RepliesI haven't ever read the manual for my car. But the doors automatically lock when keys are out of ignition. most of the time, that is.
View 20 Replies