My oil smells like gas, and the truck isn't running right. Sounds like a cylinder isn't firing...but no error message in the MFI. Crap. This is not going to be pretty. Should I have her towed to the dealer or just drive it?
View 7 RepliesThis is a 2005 GX470 with 125k miles. We've had this truck for 3+ years and this is the first time we're experiencing this issue.
2 days ago, i noticed that there is a strange moldy smell inside the cabin when i drove the car around town. Not too strong, but definitely noticeable. It was not the usual musty/humid smell that all cars have after you drive them with the AC on for awhile and then you turn it off. This usual smell is common in a lot of cars, i've had it in the Lexus too, and it usually goes away after 10 mins or so.
What i have in our car is a different smell. It smells like there is a piece of old moldy wood or moldy piece of cloth left under the seat for a long time. The smell does not go away. I am 95% sure it comes from the vents on the dashboard.
Today i checked the entire cabin and all floors for leftover food, wet clothes, stains, spills and i found nothing. The car is clean. Carpet appears dry and very clean for a 10yr old car. No strange stains. Nothing inside the car smells like mold, especially when it is not running.
When i start the engine, the smell creeps up. It appears to be coming from the vents. I checked the cabin air filter. It is not brand new, about a year old, but it DOES NOT smell like mold at all. I ordered a new filter but i doubt this will fix the issue. The current filter is not wet or smelly. It's not the source. What else should i check?
There must be an AC condenser drain hole somewhere under the car. Not sure if this is obstructed or not. Where is the AC drain located exactly? Any pointers will be useful.
So my gf and I have noticed that AC in my car smells stale. The smell is most comparable to when you run AC without the engine on. What could be the problem?
View 24 RepliesI've had the car for 130k/2 yrs, and been very happy with it. Will definitely buy another. That said, I'm puzzled. Yesterday and today, after it had run for 10-20 minutes at surface-street speeds (so was warmed up), I got stuck at a lengthy traffic light and noticed a distinct smell of gasoline - not other cars' exhaust, but a fuel smell coming in on the blown air in the cabin. I have done no mechanical work on the car, or spilled gas into the glove box.
View 6 Replies1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
View 5 RepliesFor the past several months I have been noticing a mildew smell in my truck. Today it seems much more noticeable than ever. I have no leaks that I know of. Back in the first part of the summer we had very heavy rains and flooding here and I was in the middle of it, stuck in my truck overnight due to flooding. During that time I never noticed any leaks.
A couple of months ago I saw that there was about a half inch of water in the bottom of my glove compartment. (It's dry today.) I didn't find any wet spots in the carpet underneath. I thought maybe that some AC condensation had gotten in there somehow.
This morning as I was leaving for work, the smell was very noticeable and when I turned on the defroster I could definitely smell it coming out of the vents. What could be the cause?
I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
View 3 Replies2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
I recently installed a rebuilt engine on a 1997 Chev. s10, 5 speed. Decided to replace the clutch & pressure plate also. After bleeding the save cylinder several times, I could not get the transmissions to go into gear while the truck was running, although it would shift in all gears with truck engine off. I took transmission out again and replace the slave cylinder/throw out bearing. After bleeding 3 times I now have a full clutch, best ever, but still will not go into gear with engine running. It worked perfectly before replacing the engine.
View 5 RepliesDrove the truck one week ago today and it ran perfectly fine. Drove it last night for about 20 minutes - ran fine. Drove it again today just 1 minute up the road - ran fine. Started it again this evening and drove it 5 minutes down the road - ran fine. Stopped and put gas in it - now it's not fine. After putting gas in it it refused to start but will turn over. Put a booster pack on it and it will start but would only stay running with the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor, as soon as you took it off it dies. Now it will not stay running even with the gas pushed all the way down.
View 5 Replies2011-2012 Touareg had issues where the truck does not release the key after you shut off the ignition? We're having this problem about every ~5 or so times we shut down the truck.
I have to restart the engine and turn it back off before it releases.
Am I doing something wrong with my touch, or is it a known problem where I should take it to my dealer.
I was driving along as happy as could be, and suddenly lost power. 2000-2001 Ranger, 5 speed. After I got it home, I plugged in a charger, tried jumping it and all. I was getting a few turnovers, now I only get a click. Wipers, Lights and fans all work so there is some power at least.
I finally found my Ohm Multimeter and checked the current from battery to power box.
battery + to - 12.96
battery - to power - 0.00
battery - to power + 12.96
battery + to power - 0.00
battery + to power + 0.00
Now that just seems insanely odd to me.
My Dad has a 1992 Toyota Pick-up with a 22RE engine it is a 2 wheel drive automatic. The truck stopped running while idling, he did code tests on it and they came up clear. He can get it to run on propane but not on gas. He did change all the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plug wires.
View 13 RepliesI have noticed a loud humming sound coming from the truck when I have the AC on. Also you can feel the vibration as well. I turn off the AC and it goes away. All this happens on an infrequent behavior but does happen daily. what gives?
View 2 RepliesAm back to VW. This time with a 05 Touareg. The truck was sitting for more than 3 days with dead battery and now the NAV will not turn on.
View 3 Replieswhy my truck is running rough the problem I am having is when you push the gas peddle more than a 1/4 of an inch it shudders and has no get up and go and also if say I'm doing 40 MPH and hit the gas you can hear the engine rev up but I will lose all power and actually lose speed I thought maybe the cats were bad and I changed the plugs for good measure but I can't seem to figure it out also I had the fuel pressure checked and its pulling pressure is great/
View 6 RepliesHave a 2007 and everything was running fine all day today. Stopped at home for a few hours and went back out to run a few more errands and my truck started running poorly, dashboard lights were dimming, and the ESC OFF & ABS dummy lights came on as well as the red battery light. Managed to turn around and make it back home. Sounds like my battery needs replacing? Hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator.
View 22 RepliesAlthough my lil' truck (2006 Ranger XLT, 2WD,with 4-cyl / 5spd, and 115K miles) has been running just fine since I bought it about a year & 5K miles ago, I suspected it still had its original spark plugs and I figured I should change them before problems arrived.
As I suspected, the plugs that I took out looked to be original. I measured their gap and they all had excessive plug gaps - around 0.052" gap. I installed the four new AUTOLITE APP104 (double platinum) and checked their gap, and they were a bit tight at 0.042". My book says they should be at 0.044" gap. But I installed them at 0.042 anyway, figuring they'll burn wider in time.
One by one, I smeared a small bit of never-seize on the plug threads & at the plug-to-cyl head tapered edge. I smeared a dab of Dielectric Grease around at the top of the plug to ease the plug wire re-install and hopefully calm any possible arching. The plug wires came off the plugs easy enough and went back on just as easy.
I hit the key and the engine fired right up. It idled rough as expected. However, it continued to idle rough and if I raised the RPM level, it would respond, but still ran rough. It is throwing a 'Check Engine Light' on the dash cluster now - whereas it wasn't prior to the new plugs.
My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
View 2 RepliesMY 2000 Ford F150 4.2L v6 is running cold. I bought it this summer and it ran a hair above the cold line on the temp gauge. Now that it is cooling off it doesn't come off the cold line. I have drove it for an hour and it never move. The heat is barely warm. I thought it may have been a stuck open thermostat so I changed it out with a 195 and it did not work. I can let the truck run parked for 15 minutes and still be able to grab the hose leading down to the thermo. What is wrong? The guy I bought it from used it to pull a small boat. He said it started running hot when he would pull with it so he had a new radiator, thermo and clutch fan installed. Then he said the truck ran on the colder side. Now the thing just runs plain cold!
View 1 RepliesFinally, you can get EGT's with the Torque app!
I had to reinstall Torque on my new phone and EGT1 was in the predefined set of PID's for Ford. Launch Torque, the go to Settings, Manage extra PIDs/Sensors, Menu, Add perdifined set, select "Ford (Incl PowerStroke)". I believe it's getting data from EGT11 that is between the turbo and the DOC.
I included a graph that shows the truck running empty at 50-55 MPH, ambient air temp. ~50F and the EGT's are around 430F, at 60-65. They are 480-500F. If one of guys/gals with the Edge Insight/H&S/other tuner would be kind enough to confirm those numbers are correct.
This was on a 2 lane highway following a couple of old rock haulers, then I passed 'em.