When I start my TReg on a cold start it takes my oil pressure gauge about 10 to 15 minutes to even move up a little bit. My engine also has a loud clatter for about 1 minute when I start on a cold start. Is this normal, could I have a faulty gauge?
View 12 RepliesThe oil pressure gauge in my 04 v8 treg doesn't move until I drive it for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?? When THE BEAST is idling it takes about 15 minutes to pass 60 on the oil pressure gauge. I find this very odd.
View 3 RepliesI wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
My launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
View 7 RepliesTemp gauge not working stays at C doesn't move at all. And smelling anti freeze while driving. The heat still works and not wet on carpet of passenger side. Does have an oil leak I think since I've had to add more oil again. Would that have anything to do with an antifreeze smell tho? Just checking before I have it looked at it. Also the gas gauge just floats that hasn't worked in a while though.
View 5 RepliesWhen I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
Occasionally my 2003 f150 takes longer to start than Id like. Lets say 2-3 seconds before it fires. It turns over plenty fast so Its not a battery crapping out. Runs great once it lights. I replaced the spark plugs but that didn't change it. Once again this just happens every now and then. 120k on the clock. Should I suspect a fuel pump showing its age? Oh, I should also note I changed the fuel filter a few months back.
View 6 RepliesWhy when I am in hot weather it takes a long time for the a/c to start cooling off the car...
View 19 RepliesI've been noticing recently that my oil pressure gauge has been hanging on "0" until I drive it for awhile, then it will go up to a normal level of around 180-200. It used to register the pressure quicker. The oil level is fine. In fact, I just had my 5K (at 6K) service a month ago.Again I ask, is this normal?
View 2 RepliesThe Tire Pressure Warning went off every time I started the car. Checked pressure, no problems. I told the dealer, and he said that if you park next to another Treg, it can cause problems. I guess that the tire sensors are wireless and the interfere w/ each other.
View 4 RepliesHaving issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
View 14 RepliesRevo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
View 3 RepliesI've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
View 5 RepliesMy car had some minor front end damage repaired by a body shop. Since I got it back the a/c takes longer to start blowing cold air. If I drive it daily the a/c starts up normally. But if the car sits for a few days, it may take anywhere from 3-5 minutes before it blows cold. I've taken it back to the body shop who has in turn taken it to a dealer and nothing was found.
View 2 RepliesIt seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 Replies02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
View 6 Replies