The oil pressure gauge in my 04 v8 treg doesn't move until I drive it for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?? When THE BEAST is idling it takes about 15 minutes to pass 60 on the oil pressure gauge. I find this very odd.
View 3 RepliesMy launch scanner reported a bad oil pressure switch, but I've replaced that, and when I did the oil pressure light went away, but my gauge still didn't work. Could it be a faulty switch? Or is it common for gauges to stop working on these fords seeing how there's a resistor to trick the gauge from the factory anyway? If I smack my dash the gauge will raise and lower. But I think that's normal.
View 7 RepliesTemp gauge not working stays at C doesn't move at all. And smelling anti freeze while driving. The heat still works and not wet on carpet of passenger side. Does have an oil leak I think since I've had to add more oil again. Would that have anything to do with an antifreeze smell tho? Just checking before I have it looked at it. Also the gas gauge just floats that hasn't worked in a while though.
View 5 RepliesWhen I start my TReg on a cold start it takes my oil pressure gauge about 10 to 15 minutes to even move up a little bit. My engine also has a loud clatter for about 1 minute when I start on a cold start. Is this normal, could I have a faulty gauge?
View 12 RepliesMy 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
I have a 2004 3.0 V6. The dash temperature gauge doesn't move just sits at the bottom 50C. (Canadian metric)...
I would like to locate the sender for the gauge to do a little testing. I removed a whack of plastic but nothing was obvious.
This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
I have a 2005 v6 ford mustang with 134,300 miles on it. About three weeks ago the fuel gauge started to misread and now it doesn't move at all and it dose have gas. Two days ago the check light came on so I connected to to a code scanner and it gave me the code P0460. Under the code it gave a short discretion, (Fuel level sensor A circuit). What issue might be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. The needle on the temp gauge will float up and down after about five mins. of drive time...after a short period of time, however, it will settle around 200 degrees or so. (The heater will not blow warm air while the needle is floating.) The only time the needle starts to rise is when the vehicle is stopped in traffic, but even then, it never gets into the "red." The car never overheats and I have yet to see any coolant on the driveway.
View 1 RepliesI purchase my 05 GX470 last April,
Had the timing belt and water pump replaced as part of the deal. Lately in the cooler temperatures around the freezing point I've noticed that the temp gauge does not start to rise until I've driven about five minutes, longer if I go thru a drive thru and the truck is idling in the line up and the heater fan does not come on until I've driven about 10 minutes. The temp gauge takes about 15 -20 minutes of driving till it hits normal or half way on the scale. This seems longer than what I consider normal, at least for the heat to come on.
2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
My tire pressure monitor is acting funky again in cold weather. For the past few days when the weather is around 30s i get flat tyre warning when i first start my car. then after drive for about 5 minutes, it goes away. Seems like once the tire warms up the warning disappeared.
I have standard 18" wheels... currently the tire reading from the MFI is 34 front 37 back. I remember i had them set in the summer for 37 front and 42 back. Should I put more air in? is that why?
I've been noticing recently that my oil pressure gauge has been hanging on "0" until I drive it for awhile, then it will go up to a normal level of around 180-200. It used to register the pressure quicker. The oil level is fine. In fact, I just had my 5K (at 6K) service a month ago.Again I ask, is this normal?
View 2 Replies'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
View 6 RepliesLast week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
View 16 RepliesI'm working with some family members who have a 97 Bonneville with the 3800 supercharged and approaching 300,000 miles. It already has a rebuilt engine and transmission.
Just recently when putting the car in gear it sounds like it goes in gear (the engine rpms settle down) but the car doesn't move. Under the hood I can see the arm that shifts the transmission. It moves normally and appears to engage the transmission properly, but the car just doesn't move.
It doesn't do this all the time, but it does it about 90% of the time. The other 10% it goes it gear and drives just fine.
Today while testing a little more we put it in drive and it didn't want to go, but with the RPMs up around d 3,000 the car creeped forward a couple feet and stopped.
My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
View 24 RepliesMy new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
View 24 RepliesI have this 2005 Camry since 2010 and never had any issue. Yesterday, I used wiper and the driver side moved slightly. The passenger side wiper blade went over it. So I checked and the driver side arm doesn't move at all but the passenger side is working fine. Winter is coming here and it'll be terrible without working wipers. Is it something I can tinker on?
View 9 Replies