Touareg :: Oil Is Leaking Into Cylinder While The Engine Is Off
Mar 10, 2004
I've had a problem since day one where I see a sizable puff of smoke from the exhaust right after starting the engine. This has been ongoing since I took delivery in August, but wasn't till this last visit to the dealer that they were able to duplicate the problem. Upon further inspection by a regional rep, it turns out the there is a crack in the head near the #1 plug and oil is leaking into the cylinder while the engine is off.
They are ordering a new engine from Germany and don't expect to have me back in service for a couple weeks. Couple weeks for a new engine? Longer?
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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
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Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
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My car has been sitting for almost 2 years now so I decided to start it once again after fixing warped turbo and manifold flanges. Immediately after starting it we noticed a misfire on cyl 3. checked plugs, coils injector harness and all looked good. Then we realized that I lost compression on the back 3 cylinders, I did a wet compression test and nothing changed (worst being cyl 3 at 80 psi), engine warm and cold tests. Then a friend and I did a leak down test and it seems like the intake valves are leaking and the rings are good.
Before I remove the head and have tons of work done to it I wanted to check a little further so I started tearing the short runner intake manifold out and valve cover. with the valve cover out, the springs and cams etc looks all in good shape. Then the intake runners were covered with a lot of oil which is weird because I dont have my crank case vent recirculated to the intake and my turbo seals are not leaking (no oil on the inter-cooler piping), and it is not just fuel in there.
Now if my valves are leaking air out the combustion chamber could they also be leaking from the valve stem guides? I didn't notice excessive oil being burnt through the exhaust which is normal when that happens on cold starts. So I am confused on where the oil is coming from or how it is being pushed to the intake runners on the head and manifold.
I have had a bit of blow by, normal on my case, because when the low compression pistons were installed the rings were gaped a little more to account for high heat at high boost pressure.
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I have a 2009 Accent that has a wheel cylinder leaking. I don't have any flare nut wrenches. Its supposed be a 11 mm. I ran across a few WEB pages and videos that state that a 7/16" fits better? I know I could by both sets, 7/16 would be a better choice?
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My T18 tranny in my 85 F150 will not shift, first instinct was clutch but after tearing the drivetrain out of the truck to check the clutch, there is virtually no wear on it. Slave cylinder is leaking a little bit but the mechanic that took a quick look at it said it was still working. She was shifting fine when i left for school, then when i got off the highway i couldn't shift.
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I replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
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My 2003 Toyota 4 Runner with 104K miles recently started showing a brake light off and on. The brake fluid reservoir was at the minimum level and there was some residue leaking from the bottom near a silver disc. Took it to a mechanic and was told it was most likely the master cylinder leaking brake fluid. Is this normal wear and tear or is it unusual in this vintage vehicle? I do not notice any brake slippage at this point. Should I take this to the dealer and ask why this master cylinder is faulty? I thought Toyotas were long life vehicles?
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My car was shaking badly during idle and the Engine and VSC Off lights came on simultaneously. I took it to a local garage (not dealership) and they said that there is anti-freeze leaking into a cylinder. They said the only way to clean it out/fix it is to first remove the entire engine from the car so it could be worked on. It will cost a total of $2,700. My engine has 141,000 miles on it so they said this may be risky since it is so used. They said for $3,500 they could swap it with an engine that only has 31,000 miles on it (and a 6 month guarantee.) By numbers this sounds like a no brainer (I am assuming?) but I am curious if swapping the engines would be worth it seeing as the rest of the car has still traveled 141,000 miles. I have kept it in good condition and such though. I am also curious if the engine really does need to be removed to fix this sort of problem or it it could be done cheaper.
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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We now have a new problem. Motor is leaking antifreeze out of what i will call a weeping hole in the on the #5 cylinder side of the block. The hole, which is manufactured in the block. Is where the antifreeze is seeping from. The hole is located above the bottom bolt an just below the top bolt for the transmission. the hole is on the block. I think that there might be a freeze out plug on the back of the motor block where the leak is coming from. The block was not leaking before we removed the heads for valve job.
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I have a 2004 2.7 liter toyota tacoma with 135000 miles. the head cracked and was leaking coolant into the #2 cylinder. it wasn't catastrophic and was still running with just a stumbling idle at start up when cold. That said i took it apart, found the crack and I am in the process of replacing the head at home, my mechanic did all the diagnosis work.i don't remember overheating or when the head could have cracked.
Question is.....what should i check or replace while the head is off so that i don't crack my new head??there were never puddles of coolant under the truck. I just don't want to replace my head and crack a new one.
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I replaced my hydroboost unit about 10,000 miles ago. Today I noticed it was wet under the unit. Only this time, it's not red PS fluid, rather, it is brake fluid. So, I assume the master cylinder is leaking and winding up under the hydroboost unit via gravity. Or at least that's my theory.
Any way Rockauto lists 2 motorcraft master cylinders.
One is BRMC-26 for Hydroboost
The other is BRMC-27 for speed control.
I have obviously Hydroboost, but also have speed control.
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I have a 2008 Touareg 2, V8, 4.2L.
I bought it used (~95k miles) and almost immediately had an issue. #5 is misfiring. Since then, it has been in the shop 10-12 times with no resolution. Here is what I have done so far:
Put in all new plugs/coils sent the ECU to SIA electronics in Chicago for testing - no errors replaced the injector with a new injector on #5swapped #1 for #5 (plugs/coils)checked the harness (dealership said they did this, but not sure if they did or are just tired of me)
Through all this, #5 is still misfiring. The dealership is out of options, suggesting that the ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced ($1600) or they need to swap the #5 injector with #1 to see if that is the issue (~$1000+). Neither of these options sound reasonable because a) the ECU was already tested and b) the injector is brand new, yet the exact problem (#5 misfire) has persisted before and after the injector replacement.
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I have a 2005 Treg V6. I took it in last week for the 20K check up. After having the vehicle all day I was told they have found coolant in the cylinder. I have been told it is either a warped head or a head gasket issue. This sounds serious.....never had this kind of issue with my many VW's over the past 10 plus years....should I be worried about more trouble down the future? I guess I am just not keen on VW technician ripping parts of the engine apart and putting it back together..
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I got a 99 f250 v10 5 speed manual. my slave cylinder was leaking so me and a buddy replaced it. the pedal felt kinda funny at first but shifted fine. Fast forward 2 months, I moved out west and my truck will grind a little into 3rd 5th and you damn near need to be at a stop to down shift into 2nd.
If I drive like grandpa and shift slow it usually is fine but but might still grind. I am wondering if its a syncro or if we did not correctly "bleed the new clutch slave. Tempted to take it to ford and see what they say.
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Need to replace coil pack on cylinder #3. What is the firing order? 2004 - V8, 52,000
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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I'm having an issue that I think can be resolved. There are no leaks...no smells...I get roughly 12 MPG.. I drive like an old lady YET gas evaporates like boiling water in my car.
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Has this been the problem with the steering in the touaregs.No noise or anything. Just a slow leak.Will update after this Wed.Later
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