Touareg :: Oil Is Leaking Into Cylinder While The Engine Is Off


Mar 10, 2004

I've had a problem since day one where I see a sizable puff of smoke from the exhaust right after starting the engine. This has been ongoing since I took delivery in August, but wasn't till this last visit to the dealer that they were able to duplicate the problem. Upon further inspection by a regional rep, it turns out the there is a crack in the head near the #1 plug and oil is leaking into the cylinder while the engine is off.

They are ordering a new engine from Germany and don't expect to have me back in service for a couple weeks. Couple weeks for a new engine? Longer?

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I have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:

1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?

2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?

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Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.

The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.

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Before I remove the head and have tons of work done to it I wanted to check a little further so I started tearing the short runner intake manifold out and valve cover. with the valve cover out, the springs and cams etc looks all in good shape. Then the intake runners were covered with a lot of oil which is weird because I dont have my crank case vent recirculated to the intake and my turbo seals are not leaking (no oil on the inter-cooler piping), and it is not just fuel in there.

Now if my valves are leaking air out the combustion chamber could they also be leaking from the valve stem guides? I didn't notice excessive oil being burnt through the exhaust which is normal when that happens on cold starts. So I am confused on where the oil is coming from or how it is being pushed to the intake runners on the head and manifold.

I have had a bit of blow by, normal on my case, because when the low compression pistons were installed the rings were gaped a little more to account for high heat at high boost pressure.

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My car was shaking badly during idle and the Engine and VSC Off lights came on simultaneously. I took it to a local garage (not dealership) and they said that there is anti-freeze leaking into a cylinder. They said the only way to clean it out/fix it is to first remove the entire engine from the car so it could be worked on. It will cost a total of $2,700. My engine has 141,000 miles on it so they said this may be risky since it is so used. They said for $3,500 they could swap it with an engine that only has 31,000 miles on it (and a 6 month guarantee.) By numbers this sounds like a no brainer (I am assuming?) but I am curious if swapping the engines would be worth it seeing as the rest of the car has still traveled 141,000 miles. I have kept it in good condition and such though. I am also curious if the engine really does need to be removed to fix this sort of problem or it it could be done cheaper.

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