Touareg :: Noticeable Clatter In 1st And Second Gear
Jul 19, 2006
I'm bringing the car in for a seat belt recall and I'm having them look/listen for a heavy valve clatter under WOT. I noticed this before and mentioned it to them, but of course they couldn't find anything wrong.
BUt it's a very noticeable clatter in 1st and sometimes second, embarrassing actually. The other morning when my GF started it saw a big blue cloud of smoke and she said it ran really rough. Is there some issue with the right bank or any bank on the engine? THere's no way that this engine should sound like that. I thought maybe it was because I was running 87, but most here said they didn't notice anything, and a "knock" doesn't sound like clatter. I also tried running 91 for a few tanks and nothing changed.
We actually like the car, but the amount of problems has been a little disheartening. I think more that when I go to the dealer I feel like they don't even know how to use a wrench.
View 24 Replies
Advertisement
Our 2005 V8 makes an awful noise under acceleration. I think it sounds like a valve clatter, but I think I remember reading it was some part in the exhaust making the noise. I've tried all fuel options to see if it was related to what OCT fuel.
I brought it in for service (5 recalls, nice) and they didn't hear it (of course) until I took them for a ride. The tech said he remembered earlier models having some issue.
I don't buy that it's "Normal" because I don't hear other 4.2 V8s making that noise, and I sure has hell don't think a 45K SUV should sound like somethings broke when it revs past 4K.
View 4 Replies
We love our Treg, but I am not happy about the clatter (like not lube for a second or two) when starting in the morning. Temps are warm this time of year. Otherwise, everything OK.
View 1 Replies
I have an 04 V8 and have consistently noted a valve(?) clatter noise under moderate to hard acceleration. I mentioned it to my VW sales associate and he stated this is typical of this engine and that after warm up it should no longer occur. I hear the clatter at any time, warm or cold.
View 5 Replies
When I have the clutch depressed and start to let out as I'm either in reverse or in first gear it makes a clatter/chatter noise. It also occurs when I have the clutch depressed and just rev the engine and it's in neutral. Some days it's louder than others. It doesn't matter if the engine is cool or at normal temp.
View 7 Replies
I now have an annoying "clatter" sound coming from my supercharger cone housing ONLY when the car is in gear and at idle (i.e.,: stop light,etc.).. Had a new serpentine belt replaced 6 months ago with new water pump.114K miles, great condition otherwise.
View 1 Replies
I recently had my local VW dealership replace the alternator on my 2004 V8 under warranty. Upon picking up the Touareg, there is a noticeable increase in exhaust rumble inside the vehicle as well as a vibration coming from the front passenger's seat and footwell. It isn't any louder outside but my wife and son both agree that it is much louder inside the Touareg.
I brought this up to the service representative and he had the shop foreman take a look. The technician said he didn't find any exhaust leaks and said they dropped the motor without removing any exhaust components. He claimed they just removed the clips on the pipes and dropped the motor and exhaust together. I was left to drive away with no solution.
View 1 Replies
Phaeton 3.0 tdi ... For some time i have been noticing that the car has a slight hesitation when changing gear from 1 to 2 and barely noticeable from 2 to 3, but as the car gets warmer the hesitation becomes shorter, I don't know if it really is a hesitation , it mostly feels at light acceleration before the oil gets to operating temperature and feels like it slips for like a half second before engages second gear , but as the car warms up it gets better , the car has about 230.000 km , since i bought it i put 50.000 km and did not change the transmission fluid and i guess that before me no one changed it, VW says that the atf should not be changed and many people say that it could make it worse, what the problem is and should I change the Transmission fluid ?
View 13 Replies
Been having loads of fun with my Excursion. I've completely gone through the rear axle, new Yukon 4.30 ring and pinion and "ALL" new Timken bearings. I set the pinion at 30 inch pounds preload. Back lash is 13 thousands. But now I have a gear whine during acceleration. Slight at first but more noticeable near 50mph. Coasting or decel is quite. But just barely touch the gas pedal and it starts to whine.
I know that the backlash spec is published as 6-10 but other sources state 12-15 thousands. So that's why it's set at 13. Gear pattern looked great to me. In fact most changes I tried had little effect. So is it just normal for a gear set to whine until broken in?? Should I reset the backlash down. I only have about 40 miles on it. But would like to fix before it's wrecks something.
View 14 Replies
1998 accord 4 cyl auto, mostly on start up and when coming to a stop at a light it sounds like someone is under the floorpan hitting it with a hammer. maybe 5 or 6 hits. I've looked into the exhaust being loose and hitting but it's tight and has good clearance. could it be a broken motor mount letting the engine rock too much? next, SOMETIMES when the trans shifts down into low gear you get a very noticeable clunk and the car kind of shudders. planning on doing a trans drain and fill today. lastly the instrument cluster is a little strange. tach doesn't work at all, speedo is fine as is the gas guage but the temp is erratic. when the temp is acting up you can thump it with your finger and it will jump around.
View 9 Replies
When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
View 6 Replies
Towing the 16 foot bambi airstream this weekend for Canada day long week-end. First 7 hour leg to destination great. On return trip gear selector on dash screen was flickering and would disappear completely. Engine seemed to be stuck in 1st gear but would run at about 80-100km/hour and 3000rpm. Also could not select anything except high gear(high gear/low gear selector just kept flashing)..... Trip computer/Gps also malfunctioning. The truck seemed to be trying to correct gear issues but eventually gear display totally disappeared and was left running at 80 km so as not to over rev the engine. Taking in tomorrow. Truck had new engine at 70000km, has 97000 on now. Throttle body replaced 2000km ago due to malfunction in shifting.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Camry V6. It has about 170,000 m on it. When you start the engine, of course it starts at a high idle speed and every time. And, every time there was the ominous clatter of dry engine (probably rod bearings if i had to guess) for a few seconds until there was oil pressure. Probably not too harmful, but it was one of those things that bothers you?! I'm guessing I am not the only one with this happening so that's why I made this post.
The older the engine got the more this bothered me. It's probably "normal", and if you emailed or called Toyota I'm guessing that's what a tech would tell you, but still...to get rid of this clatter I tried every additive there is. Slick 50, Duralube, Marvel Mystery oil (In my view probably useful only for cleaning-do not use in the gas!) STP. NOT ONE of these had the slightest effect on the clatter.
Then I finally tried Lucas oil additive at an oil change. This stuff claims to stick to the metal inside the engine and protect it during a dry start. Well it DOES do what it claims to do! (This is as rare as chicken teeth in the market of automotive products). No more clatter!
View 8 Replies
I took off my muffler this weekend to see if I could make the rasp sound I get from the back disappear. I managed to make some of it go away by manipulating the heat shielding. However today its been raining all day.. and I have no noise at all.. full throttle.. nope.
Windows open and hammering the gas, even shifting I don't hear it. I remember in my 04 R when it rained the exhaust would have a completely different tone. I wonder why in the rain today in my MKV, I cant hear any engine rattle at all?? strange. Will report back if I hear it tomorrow, or when its not raining.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2006/2007 prius that on cold start up works its self up to a rattle/ vibration in p mode on charge.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a tranny (02J) and I'm about to pull mine out but I'm scared to pull it off just to find out that my clutch is fried. I was at a light, stepped on the clutch, put it in first release the clutch and gave it gas like a normal person would and a bang and clatter noise occurred, I pulled over and when I stepped back on the clutch, the noise went away, released it and the noise came right back. its like clattering metal keys every time that I release the clutch, even in neutral. So eventually I put it in second and it drove normally and then got it to my friends house down the block and now its sitting there.
1.8t 2002 golf 5 speed btw.
View 3 Replies
My 2007 V6 Sonata Has a very loud clatter when I start it. It will last anywhere from 2-5 seconds then it usually goes away. It almost sounds like a baseball card hitting the spokes of a bicycle. It's within warranty and last time I took it to the dealer they first claimed they couldn't hear it. Then they changed their story and said that it was the belts warming up, and they said this is a perfectly normal sound for Hyundais to make. My fiance's family has owned 3 Hyundais and they have never had such noise come from any of there vehicles. Both of my other cars never sound like this.
View 17 Replies
Video of Noise: [URL] .....
I am getting the above noise on startup, it goes away after 5ish minutes. It isn't exactly cold out. So I don't think its the oil viscosity. Its not a bad oil filter flow back valve, and its way longer than the oil lifters should make noises. I don't think it is a cracked manifold, I think the noise would be different.
Jeep wrangler 2005. 4.0L, ~99k Miles
View 9 Replies
2003 passat gl; 1.8t w/all new front control arms, replaced to cure suspension noise, now metallic clatter persists, but any (even) light application of brake pedal and noise stops.. it is most apparent over sharp bumps...
View 3 Replies
I've got a 1997 Honda CRV. Recently when you start it up in the morning there is a terrible clatter coming from the engine. Yet, once the car warms up, the clatter totally subsides and the car runs and drives normally. Turn the car off and then start it again, the clatter comes back - but then in a minute or so the clatter is gone and all is well. I've checked the fan area and belts - nothing is caught in there. Seems like the sound is coming more from the engine. Can't figure it out. By the way - did I mention that the car now has 338,000 miles on the odometer? Other than that, the car runs fine. Is it time to give up the ghost?
View 2 Replies
I know I am stating the obvious but a clutch job on a 2010 Santa Fe CM (diesel) takes a lot of time.
My brides Santa Fe has over 280,000 km (175000miles) and has had the loud clatter from the flywheel (dual mass) for quite some time and more recently the pedal started to remain on the floor and the 'fix' of bleeding and flushing new fluid through the system stopped being effective. When a leak from the slave developed I was forced to accept that I would have to either fix or sell the vehicle.
By far the biggest obstacle I found was the non availability of a workshop manual to guide the task as it would no doubt speed the process massively for a number of reasons, some of which are listed below:
* Having a structured step by step procedure to follow, showing hidden bolt placement, torque settings, specific tools required and little tricks.
* By allowing one to assess the extent of the task and determine if one has the time/skillset/tools to deal with it would be great.
* Taking the guesswork away and thereby preventing unneeded parts removal.
* Having actual parts numbers to confirm parts suppliers supply correct parts.
Finally, of note is the way in which vehicle manufacturers assemble cars on the production line by using subframe cradles etc places massive extra difficulty with a task such as this as the clearances for tools, hands, arms and body are very very tight indeed.
I don't intend to outline a step by step process as others are far more qualified to do so, however I will point out some tricky things I have learned during the experience which may assist others. I will list them in no apparent order and will add others when I think of them.
1. The flywheel bolts are Torx T60.
2. The flywheel bolt access aperture had blocked access to the head of two of the bolts that required the use of a die grinder to remove some flywheel material. Not sure as to why this occurred or how.
3. Initially, I intended to remove the gearbox from the bell housing and remove both separately to make it easier but after removing the available bolts and prying the two apart (unsuccessfully) I removed the unit as a whole. Once on the bench I saw there were 4 bolts going into the gearbox from within the bell housing. So this unnecessary attempt needed me to split the two on the bench, scrape and clean old gasket material away and rejoin them together with new gasket silastic.
4. I supported the gearbox and bell housing from the top with an engine hoist and lowered it to be wrestled out.
5. I only dropped one side of the cradle but would remove it entirely if doing it again.
Probably enough for now i guess
View 2 Replies
