Touareg :: No Turn Signals - Battery Voltage At Zero
Feb 6, 2006
I was getting in my Touareg this morning after going to the doctor. As I turned onto the freeway onramp I noticed I had no turn signals at all and my battery voltage was pegged at zero and not fluctuating at all.
Had the battery replaced about 2,000 miles ago when I got the standard System Fault message, but it has started fine since. Even started fine this morning, etc.
Drove to the dealer while I was on the cell with my service manager who knows me by name.. I get there and shut the car off. Turn the alarm on and off and re-started it. Same thing....no turn signals and as I started it the battery voltage went up to 10 and back down to zero.
We're planning to leave it for service and it clears itself. Turn it on and off about 10 times with no error again.....very weird. Dealer needed to order some other warranty parts so they are going to check for any errors when I drop it off next week.
My voltage is consistently in the 12.5 to 13.5 range. Never at 14 volts. My tech at this dealer checked my vehicle the last time when they replaced the battery and said nothing needed to be replaced. Checked all the TSB's, etc. He and his wife have a T'reg so he seems to know his stuff.
I've heard the talk about the 14 volt reading, but he said that is not true, though it does have to have a 12.5 volt or above reading at all times per what he said. Service manager said they saw something similar last week and that owner was also getting some heavy radio static. I noticed some faint radio static, but was also listening to an AM station at the time. I do have NAV.
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Has there been any definite solution to the problem of the voltmeter going to zero immediately after the Touareg starting up and loosing the blinkers, including the hazards. When the vehicle is running in this mode all the other electronics are working fine, I tried them all. The vehicle runs normally, just the volt meter at zero and no blinkers. Has happened three times in two and a half years. I would take it to the dealer but it wouldn't do it there and they would just tell me it is working fine. What can I do, or even tell them to fix it.
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2004 V8 Touareg. Was getting all the "low voltage" error messages. "workshop fault" "headlight adjust" "brake system". Then one day I used my second key and get a "Key Battery not Found" message.
Dealer says the "low voltage" error messages have to be reprogrammed out of the computer and cannot be simply cleared. FYI I have a vagcom. They say there is no fix and I can either pay for a new battery or come back in to have them reprogram when they come up again. Is this true? New battery makes no sense to me as the battery is only two yrs old. Seems like quite the hassle as any cold weather and not starting up the car for a couple of days and I got to make a trip to the dealer. Is there a fix for this?
"Key Battery not Found"- Never saw this message until I used my second key. It obviously has a key battery since it opens the doors. Dealer is stumped and they wanted me to pick up the vehicle telling me that it was fine and the message didn't mean anything.
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A month ago, I needed my horn. No workie. Blown fuse. Yesterday, drove all morning, everything fine. Parked, came back to car, no signal lights on either side, no emergency flasher. Pulled fuse covers, no blown fuses. Restarted car, signals working again. Another change also: Ever since I found out how to view total consumption, miles since fillup, etc on the MFI, I have been unable to change it to current stats. I've pushed the roller wheel over and over again, held it in, etc. Now that this electrical gremlin has reared its ugly head, my trip computer has, on its own, reverted to current readings.
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About 30 days after having my towing hitch installed at the dealer (and having driven 1,500 miles with no problems), my turn signals mysteriously stopped functioning while driving down the freeway. I took it into my dealer and they determined that there was a software patch that needed to be installed. It resolved my signal issues and the "canbus error"....
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I love this car, but it makes me crazy at times. Was driving home from work last night and decided to stop at a sports bar for supper. Used turn signal to indicate right turn, looked at the dash, no indicator lighted on the dash, no 'tick, tick' sound.
Looked at the mirror housing, the turn arrow was flashing. The wife and I looked things over once we got parked, front turn signal worked (right and left), mirror housing worked and rear turn signal worked, but no dash indicators. As further information, brake lights worked, too.
Decided to 'reboot' the car. Shut it off, turn it on, no indicators. Went into the sports bar. Returned two hours later. Turned on car, used turn signal to indicate as we were leaving the parking lot, everything worked just fine...
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When I towed with my 2005 V-8 Touareg, the speedo displayed an indicator (like this - ) when the turn signals were actuated. I now have a 2009 TDI. The brake controller has just been installed and the turn signals work fine but no display.
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Finally I'm having my first issue with my Touareg! Coming to work today i noticed that even though i had flipped on my signal via the stalk, there was no mention of it on the dash and no clicking noise. I look off the reflection of the car in front of me and indeed me exterior turn signals work just fine. I get to work, shut off the car and turn it back on. Flip on the turn signal and the inside signal flashes once then goes off again. I again turn off and on the car and get the same result.
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I have noticed when I hook-up my camper that when driving and turning on the turn signals, I get a double arrow in the speedo gauge with a number 1 between the arrows. All the lights are functional on the camper.
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Volvo XC90 T6 AWD (2004) Changed my battery and now my turn signals won't work, won't show from display panel (interior) or light up (exterior), and my fog lamps are also not working. Used a memory settings save backup and checked fuses but can't figure out what's wrong. Electrical worked fine before battery change. Battery was aftermarket (non-OEM).
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How to fix or solve front turn signals that are not working? I just realized that both the front signals on my Prius doesn't light or flash when making a turn, the rear are working fine. Is this an easy fix or should I bring it to the dealer?
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I have a 99 gmc jimmy. Head lights and tails lights work. But not the Hazard and or turn signals. I checked fuses. I'm thinking it might be the plug under the ash tray. But I don't want to pull off the dash to find out it isn't that.
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i have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
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We have a 2013 Prius V. We found our car out of battery on Friday - the 12V battery was very undercharged - the AAA tech read the numbers but I forget now exactly.
Clearly, we don't drive the car frequently enough. Two years and we haven't hit the 10,000miles mark yet. We did get back from a 500 mile road trip though on Sunday and drove the car twice (within a 5-10 mile radius - city driving). Yesterday & today I did an average of 60 odd miles but was often stuck in traffic so the battery indicator in the display doesn't show full either.
We have also kept the same "lifestyle" the last two years and never had an issue. I did check if any lights were left on but nothing was in the "on" position.
We were recommended both by AAA & the Toyota shop to keep a battery maintainer or just drive 200 odd miles a week! The AAA mechanic said, maybe the battery is conked out but the Toyota folks didn't say anything about it.
Our issue is that our car is parked in the basement of an apartment building and find no plug points nearby or even within a range we could try to get an extension cord. And even if we did talk to management and find a hook up, how would the logistics of it work? We are in an urban area and can't really leave a car unlocked.
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As our Pri age, sooner or later the 12 v battery will fail and at exactly the wrong time. So perhaps preventive maintenance means replacing it just before failure. What has been the experience of other owners of 2010's as far as failure goes?
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The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
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I just got a 2000 F350 cc drw 7.3l.
I did search but have had no luck. My turn signals do not work, unless my foot is on the brake pedal my green arrow indicator wont even turn on. When they do my bulbs work but don't cycle so I know all the bulbs are good as I had my wife check all four corners when I got them to come on for a split second. I have tried replacing the MFS and the turn signal relay under the radio in the dash.... When I do turn on my blinkers I can hear the relay click once but that is it, no more.
I tried checking the wiring in the column and tilting the column to its extremes while trying to engage the turn signals. Also, if I unplug the brake light switch then I do not get an arrow on the IC to light up so I am guessing the power flows through that switch. I don't have a chilton manual yet and the owners manual was not in the truck. I did check fuse 23 ?
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I think the 12v agm battery is starting to go on our 03 prius. It wouldn't start after 4 days no use but did after 2. What is a healthy resetting voltage (with nothing turned on) for this agm battery as I'll check it with a multimeter? What is considered an unhealthy voltage?
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Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
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1999 Ford E350 Triton V8 ... I'm having an issue with battery voltage, and it only happens once in a while.
Sometimes, while on the highway, my voltage will drop suddenly, the battery light flickers then after a couple seconds... ding! The voltmeter jumps back up to it's normal operating voltage.
It may only happen once, or maybe 3 times in a row, or never. I cannot get it to reproduce.
I had the battery checked, that's fine. I'm doubting the alternator is the issue. What other factors could I consider?
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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