Touareg :: Nav System Isn't Working Properly
Mar 26, 2004
I have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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Last year I literally replaced the entire A/C system in my 93 F150. (The compressor, the hoses and the evaporator were leaking and I toyed with converting it to 134A so I went ahead and replaced the condenser and all the rest of the parts. I ended up putting R12 back in it since I have a tank.)
I replaced everything, added oil, pulled a vacuum, leak tested it, and charged it back with 2.75 lbs of R12. The A/C worked then (and now) but it was not really cold. I got busy and did not have time to trouble shoot it until this weekend and the pressures and clutch cycle times were withing spec according to the repair manual - air was in the low 90's so the clutch was on constantly, low side pressure in the low 40s and high side in the 180s. The inside center vent air temperature never got below 60 after about a half hour of running on max. It eventually gets the inside temperature cool but not very quickly and certainly not enough to make me take it off high.
I thought maybe the blend door was not closing so I took the glove box apart and can hear the blend door slamming in both the full cold and full hot positions so unless the door has a hole in it or there is some other path around the heater core, I don't think this is the problem. I also double checked the orifice tube and I had used the blue one that again the repair manual calls for. What could be keeping the A/C from working???
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Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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I have purchased a new 2013 XC60 and the seat and mirror memories associated with my keyless Personal Car Communicator (PCC) system are not working properly and the dealer is apparently at a loss as to how to fix it. What is even worse, Volvo's documentation on the capability is contradictory and no one from Volvo (including National Tech Support) is able to explain how it is supposed to work.
The total problem is much too complicated to explain here in detail, but basically the driver's seat and side rear view mirrors do not respond to the PCC (key fob) in a predictable manner. One time use of a particular PCC will result in the seat and mirrors going to one location, and the next time they will go to a different location. Use of the buttons on the PCC will produce one result and use of the keyless capability with the same PCC will produce a different result.
I have determined that the settings saved in the seat memory buttons (there are 3 of them) sometimes play a part in where the seat and mirrors go when the PCC is used despite the Volvo documentation insisting that these memories are separate from each other.
Volvo Tech Support insists that they have no history of problems in this area but discussions with other customers, and even some of the Volvo sales people, make it clear that I am not the only one experiencing these issues.
Although the memory settings would normally just be considered a convenience option, I have found the issue to be a safety concern. On more than one occasion I was on the road before realizing that my rear view mirrors were pointed off in space somewhere and I could not use them to make a safe lane change or other maneuver.
A side observation is that the computer based functions in the car appear sluggish and seem many times to operate with a lag. I know that this car contains almost two dozen processor modules and maybe this topic deserves a separate thread, but it is as if the communications network is very slow or the modules are slow in waking up. I'm wondering if this is involved with the unpredictable seat and mirror memory operation.
I would like to hear from others who have had or are having similar problems.
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When i purchased the yaris ZR they had none with the Suna Audio and navigation system so they said they will ship the device in and then install it when they finally had it.... So I was driving this one around with the default device in or awhile. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listen for a while. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listening to podcasts ad audiobooks through apps on my phone. I am using the Samsung Galaxy S5 Everything has been updated and using all relevant updated software.
When they said it was finally in, i brought my car in and after a few issues and shipping the wrong parts I finally got it. (I was driving the latest Corolla in the meantime)
Bluetooth is cutting out every 2 minutes (and halfway through at about 1 minute there is a glitchy/pause/lag) .... It keeps saying something like "Connection with the mobile telephone has been disconnected" and my audio stops playing. It takes about 15 seconds to reconnect. And then i have to push the Audio power button twice to get back to listening to my media. Phone is fully charged, and plugged in. There are no distractions from anything else (The Original old device that came with it never did this). You can't play audio via USB with an android device on either this one or the old one so that option is out.
Messaging is not working - Worked fine in the old/original device on the Yaris and the Corollas I was using, when i got a text, it beeped and read it out - and i could quick reply with automated messages (if the car was not moving). Now, when I try to load them a message just stays on this screen for about 5 minutes then disappears - nothing happens. "Retrieving messages please wait....."
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My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
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Last spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
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Having some occasional issues with the key not properly releasing from the ignition when shut off.
2012 Toureg Lux
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I have used (or tried to) the rear window exactly twice over the last year or so and it has never opened easily.Is there some trick to opening the rear window? I've searched the manual and threads and have come up empty.
As reference here is what I've tried to open it:
-Using the key fob and door buttons to unlock the "trunk"
-Pushed button under the wiper blade housing then pulled the housing to open the window
-Pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
-Used the door button to unlock the trunk and immediately ran to the back of the truck to open the window
-Used the convenience function (meaning did not push any buttons)and pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
BTW, the hatch is always closed when I try to open the window.
As I said, I used some combination of the above to open the window twice after numerous attempts. Last night I tried everything and could not get the darn thing to open so I used the ski bag and rear seat pass-though to store what I needed while the front of it rested on the front passengers' armrest. I don't think anything is broken, it is likely that I just don't know how the darn thing works and the manual stinks.
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So I'm not sure if it's something I did or an actual issue. I've had my t-reg less than a week and I just noticed that for some reason the turn signals don't seem to function properly.
Here's what happens: The signals outside the car (incl. side view mirrors) will work. But I get no clicking noise and the indicators on the dash do not light up (same issue with hazzards). I turned the car on/off and the radio on/off and nothing.
So I turn around and come back home to call my VW dealer, but all of a sudden the signals just started working again after I restarted the car. Did I do something?
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I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
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Is it true I can never have different types of tires between front and rear? Even if the size is the same? I put on winter tires the other at the front. The result was a nasty noise when I would accelerate and release the pedal suddenly... I had to switch back to my old summer and (unequally) used front tires.
I wonder why that is. Furthermore, the wear on my tires is not equal between front and back.
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I have grown extremely irritated over rattling inside the Touareg and decided to listen closely in an attempt to identify the guilty panels or whatever is causing all that noise that makes the cabin of my 2004 Touareg sound like the interior of a 1994 Ford Explorer with about 200,000 miles on it.
I identified the rear seat bench as a noise generator a while ago. I wrapped electrical tape around the latch bolts, but that didn't work too well. It seems that the rear middle arm rest rattles quite a bit in itself. The rest of the rattling seems to comes from the rear seat backs, but this is old news.
I noticed that the door panels (or at least that's what I thought) on the driver's door and right rear passenger door were rattling and creating a lot of noise. However, as much as I tried to hit (lightly) the door panel with the palm of my hand on different areas of the door panel, I couldn't get it to make the same noise.
After listening closer while I drove, it sounded like the doors themselves weren't quite closed. They sounded like they rattled on their latches. Something like taking off with a door ajar, but the noise isn't as pronounced. Then I remembered that every once in a while, during a visit to my friendly local car wash, water was entering my vehicle and accumulating on the rear seatbench. Upon closer inspection, I would notice that the water was getting in easily between the rubber door seal and and the door sill.
Two days ago, I decided to check something, and low and behold, I think I found the problem. Those two problem doors don't shut as tightly as the other two silent doors. I ran my fingers along the door crack near the door handles on all four doors and discovered that the two noisy doors "stuck out" some. Just a few millimeters (maybe 1 or 2 at most). I then tested it with a flat edge and it was even more apparent. I then stood behind the vehicle (far rear left and far rear right) and looked straight down the vehicle's edge and noticed that those two doors were sticking out.
I tried to loosen the door latches on the door sills to move the latches in a little, but I found that a T-40 torx is too small and a T-45 torx is too large. In fact, the T-40 worked on the top bolt on both front door sill latch hooks, but would strip the bottom bolt on the same door sill latch hooks. Those 8 point bolts are not torx (duh). I'll have to wait till Tuesday (Monday is a holiday here) to get this rattling fixed. I really hope that this eliminates most of the noises I am hearing. I notice that the front right door doesn't make any noise, and I also notice that that is the one door in the vehicle that needs to be shut extra hard in order for it the shut the first time. If it's not shut hard, it usually takes two or three tries to get it to shut. My 2003 GTI did this as well, with the very same door.
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I had some Helix HID lights installed (opdparts). The lights all work except the driver side low beam. Here are two short vids showing problem:
The light in question also will flicker if I hit a bump. I tried to research solution but i'm ignorant on this matter.
Also The adjustments do work for the light. I can raise/lower or make beam go left or right.
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Just the other day my remote began to stop unlocking my doors at all? And the hatch button works most the time along with the lock. Locking it always sets the alarm but on occasion it doesn't actually lock the door. Am I just out a whole key..
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Heat blows warm at best and A/C isn't all that cold. I want to believe its a blend door issue and dive into it this weekend and fix it but there isn't a single piece of foam coming out of any of the vents. Of all the systems on the car HVAC isn't my cup of tea I don't know anything about it. What else could be the problem?I can live without A/C but the heat things must be fixed.
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Hey for some reason my esc light will pop on saying it's off without Mr pressing the button. What makes it do that?
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
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