For the past few weeks, my Treg has been misfiring while accelerating from a cold start. It only does it when the engine is first started and only the first time you accelerate. Also blows blue smoke out the tailpipes while this is happening. Car is at the dealership right now with a tech and Service Manager scratching their heads. I already did a search for my problem, nothing matched it.
View 9 RepliesFor last 3 months I have faced to a problem. My 2009 2.0 TSI, misfiring in cold start (in Summer!). When engine is cold (particularly in the mornings) in FIRST start, RPM goes to 1100 and engine works hard and car badly shakes. If I continue, engine light flashes. But if I just after first start, turn off the engine and restart it again, RPM comes back below 1000 and engine works well!!.
During first start a strange noise comes from the below of the car (Check...check...check...) but in second start everything is OK.
KM is 100k. I red the code and it usually shows P0302 (Misfire in cyl 2) and sometimes P0301 and P0300. I recently change all spark plugs (ngk) but problem had started before sparks change.
I switched the coils to see if misfiring follows the coil but negative.
I know it can have different reasons, PCV, carbon build up, EGR,..... but as it goes just after SECOND start I think it should be an electrical problem.
I have a 2009 Camry LE with ~65k miles on it and I've had it for a month. I notice that every time I start the car when the engine is cold and accelerate for the first time, there's this little clicking noise. It's very subtle and in the beginning, I hardly noticed it- but now I notice it and I'm freaking out a little.
It only happens on a cold start and it happens once for the entire trip...just when I'm increasing speed that first time.
Dealer over filled the oil and now during cold start ups I am getting a bad noise form the engine that sounds like bad tappets or clanking metal. this does go away after a few seconds. Should I be alarmed?
View 8 RepliesMy engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
About a week ago, my wife's Malibu (~130,000 mi) started exhibiting symptoms I would associate with a problem with the ignition system. It was idling rough, it felt like it was misfiring, and the check engine light started blinking when I was accelerating from stop up to 30-40 mph.
The timing was all weird because of the holiday, and so I didn't take it to get the engine codes pulled right away because I figured Id take care of it this week (we were traveling over the weekend).
My wife just called and said her car won't start at all. The car will try to turn over and she didn't describe anything consistent with a dead battery.
If I can't get it somewhere to get the codes pulled, what might be wrong? To summarize, it started idling roughly and maybe misfiring about a week ago, it sat for four or five days, and now it won't start.
2008 VR6 Touareg with 71,000 miles. When he starts it cold the idle jumps around and is very rough. After 30 seconds or so it calms down, but you can tell it's still just not right. It also makes this puffing sound especially around the exhaust. At least puffing is how I'd describe it, maybe I can take a video of it at some point. No visible issues anywhere in the engine bay or anything that looks out of place. I ran an auto scan with VAG-COM and I pulled absolutely no faults. I found that puzzling.
View 2 RepliesWhen I start my TReg on a cold start it takes my oil pressure gauge about 10 to 15 minutes to even move up a little bit. My engine also has a loud clatter for about 1 minute when I start on a cold start. Is this normal, could I have a faulty gauge?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 Touareg 2, V8, 4.2L.
I bought it used (~95k miles) and almost immediately had an issue. #5 is misfiring. Since then, it has been in the shop 10-12 times with no resolution. Here is what I have done so far:
Put in all new plugs/coils sent the ECU to SIA electronics in Chicago for testing - no errors replaced the injector with a new injector on #5swapped #1 for #5 (plugs/coils)checked the harness (dealership said they did this, but not sure if they did or are just tired of me)
Through all this, #5 is still misfiring. The dealership is out of options, suggesting that the ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced ($1600) or they need to swap the #5 injector with #1 to see if that is the issue (~$1000+). Neither of these options sound reasonable because a) the ECU was already tested and b) the injector is brand new, yet the exact problem (#5 misfire) has persisted before and after the injector replacement.
I've got a 2000 Ford Ranger, manual 4 cyl. When cold, she's been stalling out. It happens very reliably when I come to a stop and put it in neutral (or put the clutch in). Only when she gets warmed up does it stop. Check engine light has been on (for a long time) saying the TPS sensor is out and the 4 cyl. is misfiring. I replaced the TPS sensor and it had no effect on the problem. A friend recommended changing the oxygen sensor.
View 5 RepliesFirstly, my car is a 2001 with a 1.8T, 5 speed manual. It has APR's 93 with the mode-switching software, a FMIC, a short ram air intake, the SAI delete and the original DV (used to be a Forge 007). I bought the car in 2008 and it didn't have this problem until the following winter, sold it in 2012 and recently bought it back from the guy I sold it to.
My car will start and idle great, and accelerate through first gear without problem. In second and third gear, when it hits around 3000 RPM, it just suddenly starts to sputter and run like crap and not get any kind of boost. Fourth and fifth gear, I can run it until it peaks and it'll never miss a beat. It only does this when it gets cold outside (sub-30 degrees) and is perfectly fine the other nine months out of the year. I usually don't drive it in the winter if it's avoidable, but I have to travel a lot this year and would like to drive it instead of my truck.
In the past few years/15K miles, I've replaced:
- All four coilpacks
- All new spark plugs
- New coilpack harnesses
- Catalytic Converter
- Throttle body (twice)
- Diverter valve (back to stock, other owner did it)
- SAI delete (other owner did it)
- Fuel Filter
- O2 sensor
- ECU (the factory one got shorted and had to be replaced back in '08)
I've also gone through and checked every vacuum line and can't find any leaks (including spray testing). My CEL is on due to the SAI delete. I've tried it in both the stock and APR mode and it doesn't make a difference.
I just got this car it a 2002 jetta glx vr6 12v 5 spleed. It has a miss new plugs wires gas and used coil pack. It misses especially when cold check engine light on says cam sensor changed it and still same thing if I clear the code it comes right back.
View 1 RepliesWhen starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
I'm getting a readlly hard thump or slam from my transmission when accelerating. It only seems to happen when it shifts from 5 down to 4. This is usually when rounding an exit ramp, then excellerating back onto a highway. It's really bad and enough to make me nearly wet myself when it happens. It feels like the transmission is going to snap in half or something.
View 11 RepliesA friend of mine has an intermittent misfiring problem with his 2003 Passat 1.8T (manual). It occurs mainly at start-up when the engine is cold, and also sometimes at idle. After some research, we've found out that coil packs were a recurrent problem on some B5's, so my friend wants to take a chance and replace the coils.
View 2 RepliesSo leading up to today ive had some bucking under load which felt like misfiring to me. I borrowed my friends VCDS cable, checked MAF, checked o2 sensors, checked cat. They are all good. This problem is constant but i did get a misfire code once (random, cyl 1, 2, and 3). I cleared the code and they never came back.
Today as im driving home from work, the bucking problem was much worse. Then the CEL came on. I just checked the code, and it was system too lean. I cleared the code and now the car will not start. It cranks, shows rpm on VCDS and sputters but doesnt even come close to starting.
I've noticed that my V6 and the 2 dealer's loaners have the same subtle hesitation in 3rd and 4th when acceleration. Casual, everyday accelerating. Less noticeable if you hit it hard.
View 5 RepliesI've been experiencing a weird problem lately when accelerating from a stop and heading around a gradual curve while accelerating. Basically what happens is, I will be well into the gradual turn when suddenly the car oversteers in the direction of the turn. it's a bit scary, almost like the car is starting to slide, but it's just a quick moment of oversteer and then it corrects itself.
I figure it's something to do with the 4 motion and although I wouldn't call it unsafe it's certainly a bit of a shock to the system.
I test drove an 08 VR6 Touareg 2 this evening. Felt quite nice though I even with the upgraded V6, I found myself stomping on the gas on the freeway to overtake compared to my 05 V8.
Anyway, what I wanted to post about was a vibration type noise occuring just around 2500rpm in 2nd and 3rd (and possibly others) when accelerating. At first, I thought it might be something in the muffler, but I wound down the windows and it didn't seem to be coming from the outside.
Note that the sound was not any kind of throaty roar - it sounded like something was loose/vibrating. Hopefully this is limited to the particular example that I drove?
I have noticed a high-pitched whine coming from the front end at high speeds. Above 90-95 mph any use of the accelerator results in a high-pitched noise, unrelated to RPMs. Past 120 it starts sounding pretty bad/loud. My guess is that the fuel pump is sucking so much gas that it is having issues, or the throttle control is just unhappy in that range.
View 4 RepliesI recall some folks (with certain VIN#s) getting a TSP for correcting the lag when accelerating from a dead stop. I asked my dealer about it during routine service several months ago, but no fix at that time.
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