When I make low speed sharp turns, (like trying to make a U or K turn) the Treg kind of "lurches". Is this common? Is there a fix?
My Treg is a V8 PPS and is one of the first here in the US (took delivery 7/7/03).
I have noticed that when I turn my wheel on my Touareg, mostly sharp turn, I get a slipping/almost grinding noise. I am planning on driving cross country next week and this has me worried.
View 13 Replies2013 SF Limited AWD = long base, 41K miles
Slow speed sharp turns left and right taking off from a stop I hear a thumping/light popping in the driveline. Seems like it could be a differential issue?
I also hear an unusual noise while accelerating in a straight line.....under throttle from a stop, it sounds like a rapid chirp on and off, every other second. Almost like a valve tick. The noise is heard under acceleration in gear, not when cruising at light throttle. I put the transmission in neutral while rolling, revved up the engine and the noise is not heard. Only happens when in gear and accelerating.
I have a 2002 Subaru legacy wagon, 185k miles, 5 speed manual, thumping noise when making sharp turns at slow speed, happens only after I drive over about 10 miles, does not happen after the car sits for any length of time.
View 5 RepliesI have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
View 3 RepliesAfter driving for about 15 minutes the car starts to lurch. regardless of the speed. it gets worse if and when i accelerate. If i rev up the engine, it feels like a lose in power and also like something in the engine is skipping. I changed fuel filter under the hood and the strainer on the fuel pump (not the fuel pump) thinking they might have been clogged up and the engine wasn't getting enough fuel.
View 2 RepliesI still drive the '88 Wrangler I bought in Oct '87. She has 171,000 miles. Recently I had a rebuilt motor,transmission, etc... installed. I had the existing carb rebuilt. This summer, while driving at any speed, the tach would drop to zero and the whole car would lurch. Sometimes so violently my seatbelt would lock up. After a couple miles of lurching it would backfire several times. This is very scary.
Here's the really bizare issue - now that the weather is cold, the issue has substantially (not completely) diminished. On a warm day in the 50's it will act up again. I live in Watkins Glen, NY. Yes, I'm a (Indy Car) racing fan. What can I do?
VERY interested in the 2.0T but when I test drove it this weekend, the transmission seemed to lurch when I was gradually gaining speed from a stop. I wasn't trying to press the accelerator hard. Just driving it like I would my car and gradually gain speed while driving economically. The 2.4 seemed to do this less, but it also did it.
For those who own 2.0Ts, could y'all tell me if this is normal? I plan on test driving other 2.0T in the event the one I drove was an exception, but just curious.
Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...
Not quite a U turn but more like 3 point turn without the backing up, for a wide/sharp U turn to go full circle, turning the steering wheel to the max. It's typically a left turn in this case as seldom turn wide & around the other way.
Doesn't happen all the time, might depend on the road surface (level or not, etc.) but when it happens, I hear a faint hissing sound like air leaking or running water in a pipe. What might this indicate? I don't suppose it's normal?
Two issues are bugging my 04 Gen 2. The check engine light came on a while back, and the code I'm getting when I have it checked is 505, and I'm told it's the idle control system.But then I've been told that the Prius doesn't have an idle control system. At first it came on intermittently, and I noticed that when it was on the ICE did not turn off when sitting at a light or at low speeds, etc. It made sense to me that it might be something with the idle control, but I'm not an engine person. Now the light is on all the time. I haven't had the time to get to the dealer yet, but I suspect that's about to change, due to the next issue:
When making sharp left turns, I'm getting a very brief red triangle/beep/warning on the MFD that says "problem!". Sometimes it is so fast I don't even see the MFD warning.
In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
View 1 RepliesCar is 2000 Corolla with 58k miles. My front left CV axle was leaking last year so I decided to replace both front CV axles with some generic brand from advanced auto parts (I think the brand was called ToughOne and it was new CV axles..not remanufactured). This was about 5000 miles ago. Before replacing the CV axles, this issue mentioned below never occurred.
The issue is that sometimes, when making slow sharp turns (more evident in right turns) and then immediately coming to a stop, sometimes the CV axles gets "stuck". If I let go of the brakes at the stop...the car rolls backwards (it feels like something is loose and the wheels "freeroll")! During this time, the engine is at 900-1000rpm (it should be 650 at idle). It's like the CV axles get disconnected from the transmission.Then, if I press down the gas pedal a little bit...the engine hits around 1400rpm and the CV axles "connect" again and there is a slight jolt and everything is alright.
This also happens at sudden stops (braking hard). Also a related issue: When making a quick sharp turn at normal speed, as soon as the steering wheel comes back to the center...the engine immediately hits 2300 rpm and then comes back down to 1600rpm. Its like the CV axles are disconnecting (transmission is still engaged and computer detects loss of power and raises engine rpm) and then reconnecting (computer detects power to the wheels are restored...and the engine rpm drops to normal levels).
The transmission fluid is fine, transmission shifts smoothly. Do you think the new CV axles are bad? The mechanic had trouble disconnecting the old axles...so he used a hammer...maybe he bent something?
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. This is a 4X4. This Jeep runs great in all other ways, but only when it's hot out--hot enough to create heat on the front suspension, this problem occurs. The CV Joints have ben changed. Short Trips, it will not happen, only after warming up. It's never happened in cold weather. Been Greased. Three mechanics have looked at this and have found no reason for the problem. . .only to say, yep, it's a problem.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
View 3 RepliesPicked up an '03 Eddie Bauer v8 with the full time AWD knowing that the transfer case needed to be replaced, I got a good deal so it was worth it. It's still driveable but it binds in sharps turns and I get the occasional knock. I have two questions really, what is the correct PN for the single speed transfer case for this year model?
All the online ford parts store will give me is 7A195... well yeah, there's like a hundred different variations on that part number. And what year Mountaineers and Aviators will cross over to the Explorer? I've been searching ebay but their info is all over the place, no consistency. As an after thought, how difficult would it be to convert this to a 2 speed part time 4x4?
I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesI own a Canadian 2013 Santa Fe sport AWD 2.0l turbo. Back in June/ July 2015 I noticed a poping / grinding noise coming from the rear of the vehicle when ever I made sharp turns under moderate acceleration. I brought my car into the dealer as it was still under warranty. They diagnosed the problem to be my viscous coupler apparently it was defective.
The part was ordered and replaced about 3 weeks later. After the warranty work was completed in still noticed a noise coming from the back end. I took my car back to the dealer. They found that the rear tires were "cupped" they recommended to get a 4 wheel alignment to solve the cupping issue.
In my past experiences tire cupping is usually caused by a worn out suspension component such as bad shocks. So to avoid conflict of interest I took my car to Canadian Tire to get the alignment checked and adjusted.
Sure enough the front wheels only were slightly out of alignment and a minor adjustment was made. No adjustments made to the rear. The technician advised me that due to the minor adjustment, the alignment would not cause my rear wheels to cup. The complete suspension was checked and no problems were found.
So...would a bad viscous coupler cause wheel cupping???
My Santa Fe had 48000kms at the time of the original noise was detected.
I do not tow a trailer or haul overloaded loads.
The majority of kilometres made Is done on highway.
The rear tires have now been rotated to the front.
98 Ranger Front brake lines Too short! they kink in sharp turns and wear out then start to seep then eventually leak and need replacement. Checked parts references and the lines have been considered stock. Not sure if I have a 1/2 year model.
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