Touareg :: Key Not Properly Releasing From Ignition When Shut Off
Oct 16, 2011
Having some occasional issues with the key not properly releasing from the ignition when shut off.
2012 Toureg Lux
Having some occasional issues with the key not properly releasing from the ignition when shut off.
2012 Toureg Lux
Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
2011-2012 Touareg had issues where the truck does not release the key after you shut off the ignition? We're having this problem about every ~5 or so times we shut down the truck.
I have to restart the engine and turn it back off before it releases.
Am I doing something wrong with my touch, or is it a known problem where I should take it to my dealer.
The other day I went to the store for an errand in my 1995 Nissan Sentra. When I parked my car my key seemed to be stuck; I jiggled it out a little after putting it in park and turning it off. I came back and couldn't seem to get the key in properly to turn it over, but eventually after some fidgeting I got it in. I turned it over and it started, but I couldn't take the car out of park. When I pushed down the brake, the gear shifter wouldn't move. I left it there and came back yesterday -- I was able to start the car, but had to fool around with the key a bit to get it to go in properly and the gear shifter still won't move out of park. Is this a transmission problem, an ignition problem, something else, or all of the above.
View 5 RepliesHaving problems with center console not shutting properly? A few days ago out of the blue it would not shut, almost as though something was blocking it. If I push really hard it clicks shut but when I go to open it again it takes a lot of unusual force to open.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Ex and while I was walking around to let the ole lady in I leaned on the rear passenger door and it moved back and forth like a half inch. Its the only one that does it, is there an adjustment for this, either the stryker or on the hinges?
View 2 RepliesI have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
I have used (or tried to) the rear window exactly twice over the last year or so and it has never opened easily.Is there some trick to opening the rear window? I've searched the manual and threads and have come up empty.
As reference here is what I've tried to open it:
-Using the key fob and door buttons to unlock the "trunk"
-Pushed button under the wiper blade housing then pulled the housing to open the window
-Pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
-Used the door button to unlock the trunk and immediately ran to the back of the truck to open the window
-Used the convenience function (meaning did not push any buttons)and pushed the button under the wiper blade housing while simultaneously pulling the housing up to open the window
BTW, the hatch is always closed when I try to open the window.
As I said, I used some combination of the above to open the window twice after numerous attempts. Last night I tried everything and could not get the darn thing to open so I used the ski bag and rear seat pass-though to store what I needed while the front of it rested on the front passengers' armrest. I don't think anything is broken, it is likely that I just don't know how the darn thing works and the manual stinks.
So I'm not sure if it's something I did or an actual issue. I've had my t-reg less than a week and I just noticed that for some reason the turn signals don't seem to function properly.
Here's what happens: The signals outside the car (incl. side view mirrors) will work. But I get no clicking noise and the indicators on the dash do not light up (same issue with hazzards). I turned the car on/off and the radio on/off and nothing.
So I turn around and come back home to call my VW dealer, but all of a sudden the signals just started working again after I restarted the car. Did I do something?
Is it true I can never have different types of tires between front and rear? Even if the size is the same? I put on winter tires the other at the front. The result was a nasty noise when I would accelerate and release the pedal suddenly... I had to switch back to my old summer and (unequally) used front tires.
I wonder why that is. Furthermore, the wear on my tires is not equal between front and back.
I have grown extremely irritated over rattling inside the Touareg and decided to listen closely in an attempt to identify the guilty panels or whatever is causing all that noise that makes the cabin of my 2004 Touareg sound like the interior of a 1994 Ford Explorer with about 200,000 miles on it.
I identified the rear seat bench as a noise generator a while ago. I wrapped electrical tape around the latch bolts, but that didn't work too well. It seems that the rear middle arm rest rattles quite a bit in itself. The rest of the rattling seems to comes from the rear seat backs, but this is old news.
I noticed that the door panels (or at least that's what I thought) on the driver's door and right rear passenger door were rattling and creating a lot of noise. However, as much as I tried to hit (lightly) the door panel with the palm of my hand on different areas of the door panel, I couldn't get it to make the same noise.
After listening closer while I drove, it sounded like the doors themselves weren't quite closed. They sounded like they rattled on their latches. Something like taking off with a door ajar, but the noise isn't as pronounced. Then I remembered that every once in a while, during a visit to my friendly local car wash, water was entering my vehicle and accumulating on the rear seatbench. Upon closer inspection, I would notice that the water was getting in easily between the rubber door seal and and the door sill.
Two days ago, I decided to check something, and low and behold, I think I found the problem. Those two problem doors don't shut as tightly as the other two silent doors. I ran my fingers along the door crack near the door handles on all four doors and discovered that the two noisy doors "stuck out" some. Just a few millimeters (maybe 1 or 2 at most). I then tested it with a flat edge and it was even more apparent. I then stood behind the vehicle (far rear left and far rear right) and looked straight down the vehicle's edge and noticed that those two doors were sticking out.
I tried to loosen the door latches on the door sills to move the latches in a little, but I found that a T-40 torx is too small and a T-45 torx is too large. In fact, the T-40 worked on the top bolt on both front door sill latch hooks, but would strip the bottom bolt on the same door sill latch hooks. Those 8 point bolts are not torx (duh). I'll have to wait till Tuesday (Monday is a holiday here) to get this rattling fixed. I really hope that this eliminates most of the noises I am hearing. I notice that the front right door doesn't make any noise, and I also notice that that is the one door in the vehicle that needs to be shut extra hard in order for it the shut the first time. If it's not shut hard, it usually takes two or three tries to get it to shut. My 2003 GTI did this as well, with the very same door.
2002 VW Cabrio @80K miles no major repairs 1 1/2 years ago the car died while in motion - as if the ignition switch was turned off. While "dead in the water" I tried several things, cleaning battery cables (although horn & lights were strong), letting it cool, & jumper cables to no avail. It was towed to a local garage (who have been pretty good in the past) & the starter was replaced (they were puzzeled too, but that worked!!??). Fine for many months. Then another cutoff while in motion (30-40 mph). This time it started about 15 minutes later on its own. I drove it home & turned it off. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. After pushing it into the garage once again, cables were checked, the battery charged (again horn & lights were strong, but what the heck), checked all fuses, & looked for anything possibly suspicious. No luck.
In desperation I replaced the starter again (I know, it was probably just superstition at this point) & while at it cleaned every wiring connection I could find under the hood. It worked. The car started and ran fine, but I took it back to the original shop to see if they could find anything else - to avoid mid roadway flame outs! Understandably they were skeptical of finding the problem while it was still working. They ran it, drove, checked it, for several days & it did just fine. When I went to retrieve it wouldn't start!! Now they had it while in cardiac arrest, but before anything was diagnosed it came back to life on its own. It has been running fine for many months more.
It did it again today!! This time the 15 minute wait worked & it is back in our garage and as you can imagine my wife is not crazy about driving it again. Just some side notes: - When dead, all of the electrical system is out EXCEPT the ignition circuit - not even a click from the solinoid. - Previous to these "attacks" my wife has noticed some odd electrical occurences a day or two before, but not enough to disable the car. (dash lights flickering, acceleration stumble on takeoff, the radio going to safe mode when the power was never disconnected) - The only vague possible electrical anomoly is the installation of a Sirius radio receiver under the dash to the cigarette lighter. I haven't clue at this point.
My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
Toyota verso 2001. Well the other night went out to car and noticed the inside lights were dim, battery was nearly flat. Now I had been out in car around 2 hours before. Recharged battery next day and car would not start.
Called brake down out. As he could not find anything wrong he tried to access the ecm. He could not connect to it. Later after he left, I checked every fuse and relay. Inc fuses on side of battery. All ok.
But the thing is the immobiliser LED is out even when the doors are shut and ignition off. So I suspect power to or the imobilizer ecu itself. I have checked ecm but that only shows engine ok. On computer. Other software I have only starts at 2004 so will not read immobilizer faults codes.
2000 PASSAT 1.8t. As u pull out the key out of the ignition key chamber, u should here a click sound. That I believe signals the car that the key has been pulled out of the ignition key chamber. Well I don't hear the click sound anymore when the key is pulled out of the ignition key chamber and as a result, the car thinks the key is still is the ignition chamber, alarm does not work, radio stays on after key is out, I have to manually lock and unlock car. I think the key chamber has a pin that did not set right when I pulled the key out. I think some thing is stuck . Tired spraying WD40 into the key chamber with no results.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 ford Escape and the radio won't turn off when the cars ignition is turned off. I have checked the interior lights and the windows and they turn off, so I'm assuming that the relay isn't the problem. I have asked a ford mechanic what he might think it would be and he said it could be the radio, but I don't think it is.
View 10 RepliesAny spec sheet for installing the doors or aligning them. I have been having a problem with the driver's door not sitting properly at the bottom left corner along the A pillar. This causes the first part of the triple seal system [the Touareg has] to be compromised, thus letting in water if submerged.
View 5 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
View 1 RepliesI've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
View 3 RepliesSo starting with the specs: I have a Stage III+ Golf R with about 39k Miles on it. Stage III+ was added at 17k miles and has treated me pretty good. The car is driven about 3 days a week and has the oil change interval of 3k miles.
Things that I've checked or done recently:
- Cam Follower: Wasn't too bad but seemed like the outer coating was wearing off on it so I replaced it.
- Oil change: Changed the oil about 1 week ago but hadn't driven it since then until yesterday were we did about a 50 mile road trip. (No unusual things noticed)
When we came back home and parked in the garage, I noticed the sound when I turned the ignition off. It was pretty noticeable as you will see in the video. Could I possibly have a bad throttle body on my hands?
[URL] ....
What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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