Touareg :: Jolt While Slowing Down - Brakes Jam Or Transmission Really Abrupt
Dec 26, 2003
when i bought the t-reg the next day we drove 12 hours to NC, and every time we were on the pike for a while then pulled into a service plaza to refuel or take a break the treg would all of a sudden either jam the brakes or lug the transmission really abrupt just for a instant [URL]....................... it is hard to tell which it is. Kind of like not pulling in the clutch when coming to a stop..
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Whilst driving unloaded, I mean the car is not under load, in say 5th gear , if I go to increase acceleration I often get a sudden unsmooth change to 4th. The change is not the normal smooth change down but a very abrupt clunk back to the lower gear. This is intermittent and hard to demonstrate to the dealer for repair.
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My 2009 Santa-Fe AWD Limited is sick! Starting from a stop, the vehicle has abrupt shifts with the transmission slipping (RPM revving). Seems worse when cold. Checked the fluids, and found ATF fluid in the engine oil and engine oil in the ATF fluid. Quick internet check suggest a leaky vacuum modulator valve. (There is no way the fluids went in the wrong holes, the vehicle only has 69k kilometers on it, so it still has original ATF fluid, and I recently changed the engine oil myself.) So, do you think this is the correct diagnosis? How hard is it to change the modulator, and where is it located?
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Starting to develop an issue where the trans will exhibit an extremely hard and abrupt shift every now and then - most only during the first couple hundred yards of driving and I think its the 1-2 shift. Only will happen once and only rarely but its becoming more frequent. I have an '11 5.0L supercab auto 4x4, but my father has a similar truck but with the ecoboost which does the same thing on a MUCH more frequent basis. He has been in numerous times with no resolution so I am loathe to expend the energy on "dealing" with them.
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I just purchased this car & thought there may be a learning curve to dealing with the brakes, but I think it may be abnormal.
When braking, I apply more & more pressure smoothly down on the brakes, but no matter how evenly, slowly, and smoothly I try to remain when braking, there is a point when it abruptly brakes to jolt the passengers forward and make me look like a terrible driver, lol. It provides for a smooth decline in speed until I'm almost stopped, then it does it. Jerks us to a stop. So I've learned to apply even pressure and right before that is about to occur, lift up on the brakes and restart that slow pressure to avoid it happening.
I can deal with this because it's not that big of an inconvenience once I've gotten used to it, but I am just worried it may turn into something more or who knows, could be an easy fix. I had the car inspected by a Toyota dealership before I purchased it, and they said that everything was in great condition aside from windshield wipers. It has 81,000 miles, one owner, clean carfax.
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I'm a new Touraeg owner, a 2004 V6. When I get in it after it's been parked I sometimes hear a weird thump that sounds like a speaker getting a quick jolt. I've heard it a few times.
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This has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe 3.5l FWD 155k miles. Car has been incredibly trouble free until now. When the transmission up-shifts from 2nd to 3rd there is a hard jolt. All other up-shift and down-shift points work smooth. Occasionally will shift smooth just after I start the car or if I am accelerating hard. The rough shift happens whether I am in D or use the "manual" shift control. This coincidentally(?) started just about the time I had a battery die hard and an O2 sensor fail. Both have been replaced. Changed the AT fluid and no difference. No engine codes, but I think the AT codes don't show there? What might be going on? Any chance the battery failure had anything to do with this? Seems odd that battery, O2 sensor and transmission all start acting up at the same time.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Elantra GLS... Few months back I refueled my tank with degraded fuel (of course i did not know about it and some refueling stations in our country mix oils) and the problems started to arise with my car.. initially it all started with jerks and cracking sounds from the engine.. I then took it to the dealership and cleaned everything except the injectors but the jerking and cracking problem was solved.. but it still had a pickup problem.. whenever i tried to accelerate from 40km/h to above, the transmission seems to give a jolt make a clicking sound when downshifting.. and the acceleration compared to before has degraded.. I took it to the dealership again and their answer was drive it for 300 km more everything will b fine.. but i have driven the car for 1000 km more but the problem is not solving.. I don't know.. my warranty period is over.. in our country they only provide for 12000 km or 1 yr warranty.. now i have checked online and it seems Elantra transmission has bugged a lot of ppl..
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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Change rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
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Just got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
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I am getting a ticking sound when i am slowing down (applying my brakes) at say 35/30mph. The sound stops when I stop. This problem starts after my car warms up; doesn't do it when I first start up.
I've taken the car to 2 Hyundai dealerships and a certified mechanic and the problem continues. I first noticed this about a month ago.
So far no one seems to be able to find the problem. The mechanic did try by replacing the front brake pads. He said something about a "shims piece " and thought if we replace the front pads that would take care of the problem. The rear brakes or ok.
I'm still having the problem and I wonder if it's the rear brakes after all. I don't know what I can try now. Someone suggested going to Brake Check. I have about 1000 miles left on the original warranty.
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Are the mounts on the engine not tight enough? It feels rather strange. My dad's Ford Explorer doesn't do that. I feel like I'm driving a car with a manual transmission that needs to have dogbone bushings and mounts upgraded. How do I bring this to dealership's attention without appear like a complete loony? They like to give the "Could not duplicate" response when there is an obvious symptom.
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When I am slowing down and lightly pressing on the brakes and around 18mph or lower i hear a tick-tick-tick-tick noise , sounds like a roulette wheel from a casino war game in vegas coming to a stop, from the left front side..what could this be? .
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I have a 1984 Ford F150, has about 110,000 miles on it, been a outstanding vehicle. Recently, after I drive if for about 15 minutes, the vehicle feels like it's dragging something, like the brakes are slowing and steadily engaging without depressing them. And, along with this, a chemical odor is present. And if it is the master cylinder, does it make sense to repair considering the age of the vehicle and worth?
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Me and a friend changed just the front brake pads on my hyundai sonata 2012 limited turbo (about 55$ ceramic Wagner thermo-quiets)about a week ago . This was the first ever brake job done for the car so I assumed the rotors were fine . We made sure it was greased up everywhere it was supposed to (Didn't replace or turn them) since then my front brakes have been squealing only when I lightly apply pressure on the brakes slowing down , and goes away completely when pressed down harder. I realized I should have probably changed or turned my rotors after I already drove with the new pads on the old rotors for about a week so it's probably too late now. I am just wondering whether this noise go away eventually (what I initially figured it would) from the pads perhaps wearing back into the old rotors ? Or am I better off not waiting for this because the noise won't to away and I should just change the pads again along with the rotors!?
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Have an 02 Explorer XLT that recently had its' ABS light intermittently come on. As well when the ABS light is off the brakes will pulsate when slowing.
Took to dealer they noted the following:
Rear sensor out .... ABS Control unit is out. Was shorted out due to Hydraulic Control Unit going out. Hydraulic control unit is obsolete at Ford.
Questions:
With all of this going on, how was I able to brake although not adequately?
Does the HCU control normal breaking too (without ABS)?
Immediately he says he would not put the money into it and wants to get me to someone to trade it in on another vehicle? While I understand the logic somewhat I do not being approached like this.
Can I get a better quote going to a mom and pop mechanic and getting second hand parts?
Is there a possibility to bypass/disconnect the ABS system and would it be recommended?
How to deal with? Vehicle is in great shape aside from mechanical issues creeping up and don't want to lay out the dough for a new vehicle.
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2005 F-250 6.0 4x4. After about 50,000 miles on my original brakes, they started to make a squealing noise when applying moderate brake pressure and slowing down around 30mph-0mph. It only happens after Ive driven the truck about 30 mins. It must be warmed up. After 100,000 I decided to change the brakes.....they had plenty of life left on them, but I changed them anyway. I put on new rotors and pads and calipers in the front because one was hanging.
After about 10,000 miles, the exact same squeal has returned. With the windows down, its loud enough to physically hurt your ears if you are next to a car and the sound can bounce back into the cab. It sounds terrible. I thought it was the front brakes, so I took them apart this weekend to put in some Disc Brake Quiet. They pads look great, plenty left, the rotors look great, no grooves. Everything is tight. I relubed pins and brackets and clips. Today...same squeal still. I am at a complete loss here. It is some sort of harmonic squeal and the only thing I can figure is that the rears are the culprit. I have a drivers rear caliper that will hang and stick if you drive it really hard, so I am considering replacing the rear calipers too and do the disc brake quiet treatment there as well. Im not confident this will solve the problem.
Like I said, its so loud you can't drive with the windows down. Its a piercing squeal. Is there anything else that I can check? I can't imagine others don't do this. Its so loud and pronounced that it must be some sort of design flaw or something.
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I am getting to the point with this car that I can't stand driving it This thing where the transmission downshifts as I slow down and come to a red light is the most obnoxious feeling I've ever experienced in a car. What's worse, is when I go to speed up again and it's in the middle of one of its downshifts and hick up so bad it feels like it's can fall out of the bottom of the car. I'm done trying to deal with Toyota dealerships, all they do is tell me that Toyotas don't have transmission problems and that my car is fine unless it kicks on a light.
I feel like if this transmission was reprogrammed to act more like a normal transmission Like the electronically controlled transmission that was in the 1995 Alexis that I sold a few months ago, or my wife's 2006 solara or the 2008 I asked to 50 I used to have, the car would be fine. But this thing is neurotic, jerky, and unpredictable.
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My transmission slips when I'm slowing down and I take my foot of the brake. It doesn't always do this but it's still a concern . I have about 42k 12 i4i4 ....
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