Touareg :: Humming / Vibration Noise From Secondary Pump
Dec 2, 2004
What is the solution to fix the secondary pump humming/vibration noise? I get this humming noise from my driver side center dash area and according to few other members, it's the secondary pump. Some dealer fixed it by moving it to the side a bit to stop the vibration.
My dealer told me that's false and it's normal to make that noise (never had this noise before) and if there is something wrong, VWoA will issue an TSB to fix it..
Well, they won't do anything until there is an TSB and I was wondering if it's a easy fix that i can do it myself??
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I've got a 2004 1.8T 4motion passat and when it starts cold in the morning it makes a loud noise for a minute or so then it stops and is normal again, I'vev been told by a local autoparts store that it is possibly the auxiliary/secondary air pump that needs to be changed to fix this poblem. if it is the air pump how hard is it to change and do u need any special tooling to do it or is it fairly straight forward to change?
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Our recently purchased '04 V8 Touareg is increasingly sounding like a jet turbine engine upon start-up, and especially as winter approaches. We're told it is probably the DC-powered fuel pump. Any way to reduce the aural effect?
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Pump buzzing/humming noise varies depending upon whether accelerating, coasting, or decelerating. Sound is reminiscent of a dentist drilling my teeth. Is loudest while accelerating, hardly noticeable while coasting, and somewhat noisy decelerating. Had one suggestion that the FWD torque placed on the steering rack causes the different noises. Haven't been able to do anything to quiet it.
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I have a 06 passat v6 with 34,5000 miles and with extended warranty,the car consumes about 14 mpg city and I noticed a humming noise coming from the back seat or bellow the trunk I am positive is the fuel pump, I will like to know if my poor mileage is related to the humming noise or should I take it to the dealer to have replace under warranty...
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The secondary air pump on my 2001 went out the other day. The question that I have is it bad to drive with a bad pump?
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brought my treg in for my 5k service and also got the AC humming noise fixed. not sure if everyone has the same symptoms. but for me, the humming usually starts when the AC is over 70 degrees and you hear a humming noise that sounds like it's from the left side of the dash.
turns out that it's the vibration of the secondary water heater (located on the front left fender) that's causing all the funky "humming" noise. tech fixed it by modifying and moving the bracket for the water heater to prevent further vibration. so far i haven't heard any humming noise. and I hope that's the solution for it.
[URL]
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Is it normal in these vans to here the fuel pump humming? I hear it when I turn the key on and while I am driving. It never gets quiet.
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Looks like I have an issue with the Secondary Air Pump, but I am not sure where its located, where this is on the car?
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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II had the vibration/hum for the first time when you reach 70mph and I need to know if it is safe to drive for about a week. I have looked but can't seem to find the answer.
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I have a question? I have had my car parked for about 2 1/2 months and I just started it this weekend and I've always noticed on our cars when we start them in the morning I think it's the secondary air pump that turns on, it sounds like a blow dryer.. It only stays on for about 10 seconds maybe. Cause when I started my car this weekend I didn't hear come on.
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Started with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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I have a PZEV (Partial zero emission vehicle) 2006 Focus. Recently, my car threw the check engine light. Looked at the two codes, found out it was for the secondary air system. I pulled the car apart, removed the pump, checked that the pump was indeed receiving 12v (checked with a multimeter) with ignition-on-engine-off. I couldn't feel, or hear, the pump spinning. Figuring it was the source of the problem (as opposed to a clogged hose), I replaced the relay, thinking that perhaps it was on its dying leg. That didn't work. I next replaced the pump, which also didn't work. I can't even hear or feel the new pump running with ignition-on-engine-off.
I "reset" the codes, or so I thought, by disconnecting my battery for quite a few minutes. During the first startup, the check engine light isn't on. Starting up again though later in the day, the light returns. The engine does run a bit rough when cold without the pump malfunctioning for the first few brief moments.
Is the pump supposed to be powered and running for the entire time ignition-on-engine-off (I assume so since it is receiving 12v). How loud should these guys be? I would have thought I would be able to feel the motor spinning or hear something....
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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So far I've been through 1 set of tires (after 12,000 miles), stepper motor, new cd changer, trouble with TPMS system and more Now that my stepper motor is replaced (dealer said he wasn't aware of any widespread trouble with this part, what a joke) I hear a humming noise, constant from rear axle area, drowned out by engine while driving. Noise sounds like a fan spinning or electronic interference you might get if your cell phone is close to a computer or tv with volume off. I don't recall this noise previously although I rarely drive this car it's my wife's.
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This noise has been posted several times recently and I have also experienced similar sounds. Whining in the drivers side dash area. Dealer states that it is fuel pump and that it is normal. Well, it has been a lot colder here in the last week and the noise has become louder, a couple of times to the point that it was hard to carry on a conversation with someone in the vehicle.
So I started investigating and found that if I turned the HVAC fan all the way OFF, which turns the system off, then the noise is gone. So my noise has to be associated with the HVAC. Complaining of this same noise coming from the drivers side dash? Also found same noise when I would use the REST.
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I bought the car( like six months ago) there has always been a loud humming noise from the fuel pump ( I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump anyways) not the normal whirring noise the fuel pump makes but a hum you can hear about ten feet away. Had no issues till just lately when the afternoons are well into a hundred degrees. That is when my car starts giving me issues. After one of these hot days on my ride home from work, I had just come off the highway and stopped at a stop light when I felt the engine bogging out, the engine stalled and I had to push it to the side of the road.
Its worth mentioning that this humming noise is much louder in the heat than the cool morning then when I turned the key to hear the fuel pump(auto fuel inject) it was louder than it has ever been, and would keep stalling on the way home, I had at the most a quarter tank of gas (gas boy is busted/stuck I think) the fuel pump is bad? Could it be the sock? I thought I read somewhere that my girl pump uses gas to cool down, and that having the tank any less than a quarter could lead to the fuel pump overheating????
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Have a little oil on the outer part of the turbo and its making a raspy noise when my turbo is spoiled not sure whats going on the car pulls just as hard and boost levels are normal i had a check engine light on for a few days right after this started code was for p0411 dont think its related cause i know my secondary air pump whistles at cold start so im assuming that the code is for that and not related to the turbo.
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