My headlight has been flickering and cutting off and on for over a year now. If the light is off and I then turn the truck off and then back on, the light will work. My dealer is telling me the HID is on its way out rather than referring to the TSB and taking care of the truck under warranty. Therefore I am wondering if this sounds right for a truck that's being used everyday for over the past year.
View 8 RepliesWhat would cause this problem?
View 4 RepliesI complained about this 8 months ago and they replaced the compass display module. Then my battery died about 6 months ago and they replaced the compass control module. Now it's flickering--worse than the first time where the backlight was turning on and off. It's just the backlight that appears to be flickering.
View 11 RepliesMy left HID lamp started to flicker quickly a month ago. It seemed like it was a loose lamp housing connection when I hit bumps. I took the housing out, coated the connections with electrical grease and fit it back in tightly. Now a week later the lamp changes to an amber tone after it is lit aprox. 10 secs.
Does this indicate the bulb is about to fail? Is this a common issue? 04', so I know it is out of warranty and I am sure the bulbs aren't cheap. I even did the vagcom mod to save the bulbs during the day
The AC on my vintage Camry worked perfectly until today. When I first turned it on no cold air came out. So I shut it and later turn it on and it worked for awhile and then quit. It was that way for 100 mile trip. So what,s wrong?
View 4 RepliesA question - in my new 05, I have noticed this week an occasional light warning that would come on. It only happens every now and then. Noticed yesterday AM that its the drivers headlight.
Again, I think I saw something on a previous post about a service notice on this?? Starting to make my list for my first warranty trip to sort out a few miss the previous owner did not handle.
Yesterday when I started up the engine it cut out and died on me a number of times. The engine would start but it would not hold the idle for more than about 10 seconds, then it would quickly drop down to about 500rpm and die. It felt like it was starved for fuel. I pressed on the accelerator to try and give it more gas, but it was a bit unresponsive. Car did this for about 5 or 6 times and then on the last time I was able to give it gas and keep the rpm up around 2,000, then it went back to working normally.
Car was warmed up and it had been parked for about an hour after a prior 30 minutes of normal driving.
There were no error codes thrown up or messages on the dash. Is this a sign of something that I need to be concerned about? Where would I even start looking for a problem? If this a something that would be covered under warranty I want find it sooner than later so I can get it fixed while I still have coverage.
Car is a 2012 MK6 GTI DSG with 17,000 mi.
My outside temp gauge will go down to -33 degrees cutting off the A/C. A little later it will go back to normal and the A/C comes back on. Could this be a sensor etc...
View 1 Replies1990 Volvo 240. The ac doesn't work and about 6 yrs ago it was converted to r134a. How can I check it see whats wrong?
View 1 RepliesI have noticed this problem off and on over the course of the last year and a half. Last night we had a ridiculous rain here in Longview, TX. and my power cut out at my apt. I decided to go to the girlfriends house, and on the way, kinda took it easy, just because I am paranoid about hydrolock due to having AEM intake.
The problem only happens at WOT. I did this once and then really took it easy the rest of the way there. The engine really seems to cut out though, and the car bucks like a bronco.
Get to her house, park it, hang there for a couple of hours. Driving home I just took it easy, the rain was done, and it was fairly late. The esp light came on 1-2 minutes into the ride home, and stayed on all the way there.
Parked, slept, started up for work the next morning. Dry. No problems at all.
Now what I am wondering is if maybe some water is getting into a connector perhaps grounding out a circuit? And since the ESP light is coming on, maybe the haldex connector? I know there have been threads about ate up connectors due to corrosion, but I don't know if that could throw the system off so much as to cause the engine to "choke".
Currently the car has 75k miles on her.
I'm hoping it's nothing, maybe bad gas.
View 6 RepliesToday I was backing my ex up in my yard(down hill) and it acted like it was going to cut off. So put it in drive and it would not go,so I thought low in fluid. So I checked it, it was fine. So I tried it in drive down the hill and its fine. So confused as I was I tried in reverse again and it done it again. Any clues to why? Its a 03 v10 with 76xxx miles...
View 14 RepliesSo I've had my R for almost a year now. After a few months of ownership I thought I noticed the CEL flickering sometimes. Not terribly often, just once in a while. Enough to see this and wonder. It would always be off again by the time I looked down. Started to annoy and confuse me... then I figured if there was something really amiss it wouldn't flicker. It would just stay on. I did not realize that this was happening only at night. Just didn't notice that part.
The other evening I figured out what's been going on. It wasn't flickering at all. It was the silver button in the middle of the speedometer catching some passing light just the right way for a second. It's like half an inch from the CEL, after all.
Have a 2002 Yukon 5.3 ltr engine (155K miles) that likes to cut off at highway speeds. Usually happens after 4 or 5 hours of running at 70 to 80 mph. Strangely if I set the cruise control and do the same speeds, nothing... When it happens I end up coasting to the side at the roadway and sitting there for 15 or 20 minutes and it'll start right up and usually go the rest of the way. I've talked to a couple repair shops and they have checked service bulletins and have never been able to find anything. Will be driving to Connecticut for the 4th and not looking forward to being on 95 with the possibility of this happening again.
View 2 RepliesI have an '03 Ford F150 with the Triton motor. About 2 weeks ago it started acting like the motor was "cutting out". We changed fuel filters, got a fresh full service, got the alternator checked and did visual on the drive line and rear end ( did have a mechanic check it also). The "check engine" light does not come on while it is acting up (it does light when starting so I know the light works). At first the truck only acted up when it was good and warmed up, but now does it all the time.
View 11 RepliesI recently got a 2002 gti 337 from some dude in maryland. the car had apr stage 1 and 2 installed and a euro tuned air intake...everything else was stock. I've had the car for about 2 months now and all of the sudden it started sputtering and cutting out when id get on it a little. I also noticed I was smelling a lot of gas from under my hood. i read up and found that my car had a recall on the coilpacks so I just got them replaced thinking that would work..then changed the plugs as well. i still have a misfire though only in cylinder 4 and its really taking the fun out of the car. I only have it on stage 1 because I didn't have a turboback till just recently and now I don't even want to put it on cause i have no power.
View 8 RepliesAnything that could be causing this.
View 3 RepliesMy mazda 3i is cutting out while driving. I added fuel injector additive to gas and it still cuts out. Battery check is fine. What the issue can be. RPM loss
View 5 RepliesMy Mk4 2000 Jetta 2.slow has been acting up, a week ago I went to pick something up from my fathers house and a minute later I cam back to start it to only have the idle strange,it as well the throttle being all sorts of weir till it cut out and I had to push it into the drive way. I has the coil pack tested, and it was measured to be right where it needed to buy. I then bought starting fluid and after spraying it into the air intake it started. I had it running till it cut out and had to redo it again. Then when driving home again after putting more in it stopped, I was able to start it again keep moving for another ten second before having it stop again. I am receiving no check engine lights, alternator is good and as wel as the battery.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a used 95 pontiac trans am. It has 121,000 miles on it, 6-speed manual, 5.7L engine, all stock. Well i bought it with oil leaks and they turned out to be worse than i thought so i had to reseal pretty much the whole front of the engine from the o-ring seal to the camshaft seal, etc. That took care of the oil leaks. Well then it started to overheat so i replaced the water pump. Problems solved. Then a spark plug came loose. No prob. Well 24 hours after getting it out of the shop from the resealing i break down.
Now they say i need a new wire harness. No prob. So now I've put $2,000 into the car (that's including new tires). SO ONCE AGAIN WITHIN 24 HOURS OF LEAVING THE SHOP i break down again. So I take it to a different shop again to get a diagnostic. They won't be able to tell me anything until monday but they put on a new air intake boot (without my permission because mine was taped to secure it better and i knew it wasn't leaking air) and it cut off on them again in the shop (so I'm not paying for the boot). When i break down it happens unexpectedly just like I've run out of gas. Well once there was almost like a split second of a lurch but other than that its always been a smooth break down. No bad sounds or anything. And the motor sounds great and the car runs really well until it just stops... Then if i let it sit for a little while it will start back up and go for a little then stop again. No one can really tell me whats wrong with it.
My fuel pump seems to be fine. alternator seems fine (my lights don't dim or anything). Distributor maybe? Or could it be the fuel filter? And isn't there something i can do about the shop? Wouldn't a prudent shop at least run the computer on the car? I don't think they did because at the shop where it is now they said that 6 codes popped up on it. So they want to erase them all and run the car and see which ones come back up. So can't i take the other shop to court for neglect in their work? I mean breaking down TWICE WITHIN 24 hours of leaving them. And then the rest of the afternoon they wouldn't even pick up the phone...
Here's a quandary for those who know more than I do:
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege with 182,000 miles on it. On occasion my dashboard lights (and radio, for that matter) cut out, going completely dark. Now here's the kicker: If I give the dashboard a little tap with my hand, everything comes back all glowing and lit.
My fear had been the alternator was going bad (Again!), but since it seems to be coming back with a bop on the dashboard...is this just a loose ground? What should I be looking for? Is this something a novice like myself could be taking care of, or where should I be directing my mechanic?