While doing some rewiring of my xm satellite radio in my car. I seem to have broken something electrical (besides the wood trim!) For some reason now the xms cig plug wont work. Though the other one next to it does. I've already swapped out the cig plug with another to see if it was just the plug and that didn't work. The two outlets aren't on separate fuses are they?
View 1 RepliesThis is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
View 2 RepliesI posted earlier about the tranny in my 01 Ex v10 having a transmission problem. The show looked at it and found the O2 sensor had shorted out and in some way sending the truck in to limp home causing the tranny fuse to blow????
Any way they fixed it or so they said and I drove it for a few hours and it did fine. The next morning I drove it and it blew the fuse. (under hood box I belive #19) I took it back to the shop and they beat and banged on it....got it wet etc. and can not get it to do it again. I know whe have an electrical issue but what all runs off of the fuse that controlls the tranny?
Is there any online wiring diagrams of excursions or superduty drive trains? Where all to look for the problem?
Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
My park lamp circuit is dead. I have tested with a multi-meter and there IS power at the fuse. However, no power at the plug. I have pulled the bumper and found the plug for both the rear taillights (the park lamp circuit WORKS in the taillights) and the trailer wires. Confirmed it is dead there as well.
Both bundles go into the frame rail at the fuel tank, but I not sure which is which where it comes out at the firewall. A web search did not reveal a diagram and the Ford repair CD I have does not list Excursion diagrams.
got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
View 14 RepliesI filled up for the first time yesterday after driving 1,039 miles. I had almost forgotten how to do it. Anyways, the reason I thought I needed to fill up was that the gas gauge was down to one bar. However I was only able to add 8.3 gallons. I thought 1 bar=1 gal but that turned out to be inaccurate.
View 18 RepliesMy fuse controls cigarette lighter has apparently stopped working. I use it to charge my phone on trips. I had plugged in an inverter in an attempt to run a small fridge (for camping) and maybe that blew it out. The inverter didn't work but I could run it directly off the battery terminals. that was too much work and there were bears around anyway so I bagged the project.
View 9 RepliesGps and satellite radio plug in power line fuse burned out three times. What could be the issue with Toyota Camery 2012 plug in. Toyota Camery 2012 recall list have no mention about plug-in issues. What is the problem with the plug in power line?
View 1 RepliesWhen I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
View 1 RepliesSadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
I just bought a new Prius V 5 for the wife yesterday and I have a few questions on the whole lighting system.I set here lights today to AUTO with the Fog/Driving Lights to the ON position. We the car was started and she drove off, the Day Time running lights were not on. Will the DRL not work with the FOG lights on? Am I missing something?
View 19 RepliesIt's under the hood or inside the car
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Odyssey EX - everything was working fine up up to last year. When summer was almost at an end, the A/C suddenly failed. I pressed the 'Auto' button, I heard the compressor kick in and felt the slight kick/drop in rpm like normal, but after about 3-5 seconds the compressor disengaged and the engine went back to unhindered idle speed. The A/C console was still set at Auto, so i turned it off then back on, but this time there was no compressor kick in at all. At first I thought a fuse blew, but I checked them and they were all fine. I continued on my way and decided I would just turn on the fan/blower, but it didn't work either. It didn't matter if I set the console for auto or manual, heat or cold, when I turned the fan knob to any speed it would not turn on - with the following exception: If I turned it all the way to max and waited about 10 seconds or more, then it wold blow at full speed. Same would happen if I put it on auto and turned the temperature knob to lowest or highest temperature - after 10 seconds it would turn on the fan at max speed (since I figure consoles are programmed to go to max fan at temperature extremes to get to either one faster...)Also of note: When I turned off the vehicle, and turned it back on at a later time, the compressor again wold kick in for 5 seconds then turn off......and by the way the rear fan control works just fine throughout all this.
Since the summer was over, I didn't need the A/C and figure I would fix before the next summer. Every once in the while I would test again, and a couple of months later the A/C decided to work just fine for a whole day, but then it went back to the odd behavior
So now I'm thinking the environment console is busted and I need to replace it, except other things start to behave erratically:First was the break release for the transmission lever. I wold press down on the break but could not hear the 'click' that releases the transmission lever to shift out of park. That first time I just couldn't get it to work, so I used the emergency release on the top of the steering column, but after that I could simply pump the break or release and pump repeatedly until the click happened, usually took 3 tries. The funny thing is that this becomes consistent for about a week, and then months will pass with no problems shifting out of park, only to happen again for a week...
On some rare occasions, the interior lights don't work they way they are supposed to: They'll stay on when with all doors closed even when set to turn on only with open doors, or won't turn on at all with the same setting even with a door open (rarer still, will turn on with one door, but not another). I can always just set them to remain off all the time...
Same kind of issues with the rear windows and cruise control, most times they'll work fine, others they don't.
The only thing I really need to work in this Texas heat is the A/C, but before I go get an expensive A/C console replacement, or have technicians accumulate hours and hours of diagnosis to figure out the problem, I wanted to know if perhaps these are all related as an electrical issue with a buss-bar or a junction box - or a short from stripped wires in the harness, loose terminals, etc.
I am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
Is there a fuse or some thing? Can I rig it?
View 6 Repliesi was replacing my glow plug relay and my ratchet hit one of the small wires and sparked. i went in the truck and I heard a really fast clicking noise at the fuse box. I opened it up a very top small relay was the one clicking. i replaced it and it still clicks. the truck is TOTALLY DEAD no power to anything. I checked ALL the fuses under dash and under the hood, they are all good. both batts are at 12. 9 volts. what would kill the whole truck like this. is there a main fuse somewhere? I really need to get this going tonight. it's gonna rain all day tomorrow and this is my only Tow Truck for my business.
View 14 RepliesI am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
All my lights on the driver side don't work, replaced brake light and then nothing. Would it be a fuse? if so which one or wiring and how would I go about finding the fault.
View 1 RepliesI just had a rebuilt engine put in my 1999 Chevy Astro. However, when I got it back the lighter and auxiliary lighters don't work. I checked the fuses under the driver's side dash and the one for the lighter looked good. I change it anyhow, and it still doesn't work. Anything else I should check? I am planning a long trip and would like to use my radar detector.
View 6 RepliesI recenty was having some problems with my 2003 6.0 liter. My FICM connection was not seated all of the way which casued my truck to just die without warning....... AFter I had fixed that, my stereo died. Just dead??? Nothing...EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS???
So, after I had messed with everything I could think of, I thought, OK new DVD/Stereo time.
I checked fuse #32 which was the fuse to my stereo. The fuse is fine...BUT...There's no friggen power to the fuse via my test light. Test light works on other fuse spots so I know i"m not getting power to the fuse #32.
Since I don't have any power to this fuse....WHAT NOW???? How to trouble shoot this problem?