Replace front brake pads, rotors, and sensors. the front brake pad sensor was touching the rotor. Car still has brake pad lite on. Replace front sensors again just in case one was defective. Replace rear sensors, still lite is on.
View 4 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 Repliesrecently I replaced the front rotors and pads on my 02 Saturn SL2. I did this because there was a grinding sound coming from the front left wheel well and I had noticed a band around the rotor that looked gouged. All in all, about 30 minutes of work, following the Hanes manual. In the course of disassembling the front left caliper, I realized that the cause of the gouge in the rotor was from one of the tensioning clips on the caliper bracket. One of the flaps on the clip had bent back and was causing both the grinding sound and the gouge in the rotor. So naturally, I replaced all the tensioning clips as well. After putting everything back together, I took the car on a quick test drive around the block. The noise, while lessened, was still present. Furthermore, after I got to work this morning, I noticed that that there is the start of the same wear pattern on my brand new rotor.
What could be causing this problem to reassert itself?
Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
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3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
I'm trying to replace the front brake rotors on a 97 Ford Explorer (AWD, 5.0 L). I've removed the calipers and pads - but can not loosen the old rotors. It looks held on by rust - but do I need a special rotor pulling tool?
View 8 RepliesMy brake sensor just went off at just above 30k miles. She's due in for the 30k service anyway. I've already got the front and rear pads and front rotors ready to install. Those were ordered from Geoff at Allretta some months ago. How long before the remaining pad is worn down completely? Or is this like a "bring it in right away" thing?
I was hoping that the rear rotors would have arrived prior to my sensors going off. Now I suppose I'll just have to swap out the rear pads and reorder new pads when the rotors are available from Allretta.
I replaced my hybrid battery. Now when trying to start the car again for the first time with new battery, it will not start all the way and go into gear. it begins to fire-up then just doesn't. it flashes ready 4 times then when usually the speedometer would throw up a zero, there is nothing.
The codes I got were c1241 c1259 c1310 c1378 the abs icon is displayed with every code. I erased these then ran again and still had the actuator code. Does this mean that I need to replace the actuator or is there maintenance that can suffice? Or do you think it's something dif all together and it should start with that code?
I have been getting a beeping noise when I touch the brake pedal for a while now. It goes off after the car fully turns on..
My right front tire has been making a noise like 2 pieces of metal are touching. Not quite a grinding but maybe more like a squealing. It starts slowly at low speeds and then faster at high speeds. If I brake the sound goes away, but then slowly starts coming back. What this might be?
View 5 RepliesI'm in the process of changing pads and rotors on all 4 wheels. I've done all brakes and rotors, except that I'm stuck on the driver rear. The driver rear rotor won't come off!
Here's what I've done so far: I've used the metric jack bolts (I didn't buy the long ones) and that freed up some rust, with pb blaster. Now, the rotor comes out a bit, and I'm able to move it around, and the rotor comes forward a little bit towards me. It's so wobblily that it seems like it is about to come out. The rotor isn't solid stuck on, like most threads I've read.
While hammering, I think a piece of hardware of the parking brake fell down on the ground. Do u think that the parking brake is not allowing the rotor to come off? If so, I was reading online that there is some way to release the parking brake via a hole though the rotor, but I'm really not familiar with this. I'm not even sure if it's the parking brake that's not allowing the rotor to come off.
The drivers side and passenger side doors will not unlock using my key fobs, nor by touching the door handles. The only thing that happens when I touch the front passenger door handle is that the back doors will unlock. I have to enter my car through the back doors, and unlock the front doors manually. Also, by touching the passenger door handle, I get a series of beeps (3-5). What may be causing this, and how to fix it?
View 2 RepliesI recently changed the rear pads/rotors on a 07. the dealer said it needed new pads because I guess the heard a light grinding noise but I did not think they looked at it. I believe the pads/rotors still had 10K miles left on them. The car has 40K miles on it.
Anyhow, I noticed the old pads had some life to them, but uneven wear in some cases. Looked like the classic issue with brake pad/caliper design tolerance error.
I did grind down the pad holder a bit so they can slide on the caliper easily without getting stuck and resulting in uneven wear.
After the new pads/rotor, the rear right appears to be making the same light muffled grinding sound when you apply the brake.
Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
I am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 RepliesI have had a thumping brake pedal for a bit and knew that I had a warped rotor. I suspected the right rear by the wear pattern of the disk. I purchased the parts and started the job to see...what the heck is the cable and assembly on the outside of the caliper? After FINALLY getting the bolts off...not a great placement of this extra assembly...I pretty much had to beat the caliper off the rotor. I was afraid of this...I will have to replace the caliper as it appears to be seized.
Now... what I would assume is the parking brake assembly? I have read some great info on the normal replacement of the pads/rotor...but what do I need to know about the cable and arms? Do I need to release the tension somehow? Does it need to be rigged? Is there a best way to do this?
2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
View 2 RepliesI am receiving an erroneous warning message about pad wear. I replaced pads and rotors (OEM) about 10K miles ago. I pulled both front wheels. The pads and rotors look great, as expected, and the sensors appear to fine as well, in place, wires all look good, etc.. Nothing was jammed between the pad and the rotor, no metal was touching the rotor, etc. My understanding is that there are no sensors on the rear, so that shouldn't be causing any issues.
View 3 RepliesI had a realization the other day, based on a Porsche 944, that the "set screw" holding brake rotors are more for the assembly process but are not actually what accounts for the fastening of the rotor on the hub. instead, the 130 Nm torque on the five wheel nuts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and wheel do this. If the torque on the nuts is uneven, but the assembly is otherwise secure, wouldn't one prediction of this be uneven brake rotor wear?
View 10 RepliesHow do you remove the front and rear rotors, Any DIY's out there I didn't see.
View 2 RepliesStopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.