Touareg :: Found Coolant In The Cylinder
Oct 10, 2007
I have a 2005 Treg V6. I took it in last week for the 20K check up. After having the vehicle all day I was told they have found coolant in the cylinder. I have been told it is either a warped head or a head gasket issue. This sounds serious.....never had this kind of issue with my many VW's over the past 10 plus years....should I be worried about more trouble down the future? I guess I am just not keen on VW technician ripping parts of the engine apart and putting it back together..
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I always check the fluids, every 2 weeks or so just to make sure everything is fine, yesterday I found oil inside coolant reservoir.
The last oil change was performed 2 weeks ago and the oil that came out of the engine looked normal to me, no coolant in it.
I want to keep this car because is more than a car for me, I have a lot of plans to do with it but damm it getting annoying.
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Yesterday I noticed nice fresh pink stain on fresh new concrete after a 20 minute ride, after coming back to the car an hour later. When I open the hood you there was distinct smell of wetness and dampness. I'm at 16k. Also visible at the bottom, under the pulleys dried stain on the plastic shroud. The coolant level is about quarter of an inch below min.
Furthermore I noticed oil build up around plastic intake tube just next to the firewall. So far no CEL and other issues, except my compartment lid in the middle console refusing to close and fully open.
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Address 65: Tire Pressure Labels: 7L0-907-273.LBL
Part No: 7L0 907 273 H
Component: Reifendruck Hebrew. 0016
Coding: 0012339
Shop #: WSC 31414
2 Faults Found:
01467 - Front Left Tire Pressure Sensor (G222)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - MIL ON
My 20" porsche set passed the learning but gave me the above error 10 minutes later. My stock 18" set works fine.
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Yesterday ,when I got in the car an indicator lit up in the MFI saying Key battery not found. and a key symbol came on on top of the MFI screeen,and stayed on . Car started and ran fine.When I stopped and restarted the car all disappeared and normal. I could not find this key symbol at all in our manuals.
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2007 Pilot leaks coolant but, mechanic can not find the leak anywhere including the head gasket. He was a certified Honda mechanic.
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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I have the factory keyless entry/start. When using one of my key fobs most of the time the display will show key not found and the battery is good.
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2004 V8 Touareg. Was getting all the "low voltage" error messages. "workshop fault" "headlight adjust" "brake system". Then one day I used my second key and get a "Key Battery not Found" message.
Dealer says the "low voltage" error messages have to be reprogrammed out of the computer and cannot be simply cleared. FYI I have a vagcom. They say there is no fix and I can either pay for a new battery or come back in to have them reprogram when they come up again. Is this true? New battery makes no sense to me as the battery is only two yrs old. Seems like quite the hassle as any cold weather and not starting up the car for a couple of days and I got to make a trip to the dealer. Is there a fix for this?
"Key Battery not Found"- Never saw this message until I used my second key. It obviously has a key battery since it opens the doors. Dealer is stumped and they wanted me to pick up the vehicle telling me that it was fine and the message didn't mean anything.
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Ok 210k truck runs great except I am loosing coolant into #1 cyl. Ive owned the truck since 120k and it has NEVER ran hot not even above normal. I guess due to expansion it will even fill up the cyl nearly hydro locking it, no oil in water/radiator and no water residue in the oil either. I had the intake gaskets replaced thinking it may have been it but it came soon back. I really dont think its an head gasket, has there ever been reported problems with the intakes on these trucks? oh btw 97 2wd with 4.6. Even with coolant getting into the cyl it still runs great just a little white smoke.... I really don't want to replace the engine I think it has a lot of life still in it.
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I replaced a failing two way coolant valve and went ahead and replaced the coolant. After this the heater wouldn't get hot, so figuring there was still air in the system I added more (which it took)...and repeated that twice. (and opened the top valve to allow it to bleed). Finally heat.
I got up this morning and the heater still wasn't working....so I added more fluid....which it needed. Now I have heat.
BUT, The engine started running like crap. Code says misfire on cylinder 1. Changed the plug and coil pack. This did not work. (When I pulled plug one out the end of it was dry.)
Could it just be a crazy coincidence Immediately after I changed the radiator coolant that a faulty or clogged injector rare its ugly head? The car was running fantastic before this. I thought, before I check the codes, that some way maybe I overheated the car and landed with catastrophic issues.
I have 378,000 miles on my 07 pruius
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I have a 2008 Touareg 2, V8, 4.2L.
I bought it used (~95k miles) and almost immediately had an issue. #5 is misfiring. Since then, it has been in the shop 10-12 times with no resolution. Here is what I have done so far:
Put in all new plugs/coils sent the ECU to SIA electronics in Chicago for testing - no errors replaced the injector with a new injector on #5swapped #1 for #5 (plugs/coils)checked the harness (dealership said they did this, but not sure if they did or are just tired of me)
Through all this, #5 is still misfiring. The dealership is out of options, suggesting that the ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced ($1600) or they need to swap the #5 injector with #1 to see if that is the issue (~$1000+). Neither of these options sound reasonable because a) the ECU was already tested and b) the injector is brand new, yet the exact problem (#5 misfire) has persisted before and after the injector replacement.
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I've had a problem since day one where I see a sizable puff of smoke from the exhaust right after starting the engine. This has been ongoing since I took delivery in August, but wasn't till this last visit to the dealer that they were able to duplicate the problem. Upon further inspection by a regional rep, it turns out the there is a crack in the head near the #1 plug and oil is leaking into the cylinder while the engine is off.
They are ordering a new engine from Germany and don't expect to have me back in service for a couple weeks. Couple weeks for a new engine? Longer?
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A local mechanic tells me I have a blown head gasket on my 2003 Saab 9-5. He also said there's coolant standing in one cylinder. If this is due to stretched head bolts, might I remedy the problem by replacing the head bolts and torqueing to specifications?
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I have a 2004 2.7 liter toyota tacoma with 135000 miles. the head cracked and was leaking coolant into the #2 cylinder. it wasn't catastrophic and was still running with just a stumbling idle at start up when cold. That said i took it apart, found the crack and I am in the process of replacing the head at home, my mechanic did all the diagnosis work.i don't remember overheating or when the head could have cracked.
Question is.....what should i check or replace while the head is off so that i don't crack my new head??there were never puddles of coolant under the truck. I just don't want to replace my head and crack a new one.
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I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
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Need to replace coil pack on cylinder #3. What is the firing order? 2004 - V8, 52,000
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0l diesel. I just replaced the egr valve plus egr cooler and I was going to flush the coolant. I was filling the truck with distilled water to do the flush when I noticed a leak under the truck. When looked to see where it was coming from it looks like it's coming from where the cylinder head meets the block on both sides in the back by the transmission. Is this a sign that the head gaskets are shot or did I forgot to tighten a hose or something stupid like that?
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Stopped after a hard pull and noticed I had coolant dripping off the front sensor on the Brake Master cylinder. Coolant level was down in the Degas bottle. Searched everywhere for the source of the leak, and couldn't see anything. Today the drip had stopped, but when I squeezed the rear heater return hose under the Degas bottle it appeared to have a wet spot form.
I'm thinking I have a very tiny pin hole, and plan on pressurizing the system to see if I can determine for sure this is where it is. Before I do though, where this high pressure leak might be coming from? Degas bottle and cap is less than a year old. Doesn't appear to be any signs of leaks around the clamps. That rear heater hose.
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I was towing an enclosed trailer (4000lbs) this past weekend on the interstate and the low coolant warning came on. I pulled in at the next exit at a truck stop to look for distilled water and they did not have any. I decided to buy an off brand long life premixed coolant, pink in color and topped off the overflow tank with about 1/2 gallon of coolant. After reading about not mixing coolants with the G12 that comes in the Touareg, will I have to drain the entire cooling system and refill with G12? or is this not enough to worry about? Should I get the dealer to do this for free since they just serviced my truck prior to my trip and I told them I was going to be towing and to make sure everything is okay?
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I am getting a coolant overheating fault! No visible leaks. I don't wanna believe my radiator is bad ($$$$) So I wanna try the cheap stuff first.
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