Touareg :: Exhaust Light On For 1000 Miles But Engine Just Started Stalling After Filling Up
Feb 8, 2012
I have 120K on my 2004 V6 and have been driving with the Exhaust light on steady for about 1000 miles. Tonight after filling up at my usual Chevron with Techron Premium gas station, my engine started stalling and I lurched the 2 miles home. I took off the gas cap to see if reclosing it changed things and it did not. I had the coil pack recall work done 30K miles ago. I'm thinking fuel pump, having it towed to the shop?
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I've got a V8 with about 250 miles - I took delivery last Saturday. I'm hearing a groan in the exhaust between 1000 and 1500 rpm.
It sounds (and feels) like it's coming from the underbody beneath the center console/arm rest. I can feel the vibration in the gas/brake pedals and the driver's seat. It doesn't seem to matter what speed or gear I'm in... even Neutral. Definitely related to engine rpms as it happens while downshifting as well.
I haven't looked under a T-reg lately. What is under that area... is there a resonator in the exhaust? It almost sounds like a loose brush shield or maybe a bad baffle somewhere.
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Dang, my engine light came on at 5K miles and then a few days later it went off. Should I take it to the shop to see what's going on? Is it safe to drive? Even though the light is off now. Looking for a list of items that I can check myself before I bring it in to the shop? It seems to me that something might came loose and it tighten itself due to driving or weather???? Anyway, I like to check it or fix it myself.
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The engine light came on with only 1700 miles on it. Is there a check list that I can go over to find the problem. I want to check it out myself before I take it to the stealers I mean dealer Or is there a way I can check it on the MFI?
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2011 Subaru outback with 49000 miles. Regular oil changes every 5000 miles with Subaru filters. After the last oil change at 45000 miles the engine started shuddering when reversing from garage at @48300 miles. Once warmed up drives okay. Within a week it threw up code 0028 and found engine oil jelled up. Drained, flushed and replaced oil. I replaced the oil pressure switch and solenoid just in case. Code came back with less than 1000 miles after oil change. Can't understand the reason for jelling. Have been using Castrol GTX 5-30 all the time with Subaru OEM filters.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
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I know its a shot in the dark but my engine light came on the other night. Its a 07 v8 with 25k mileage. i started it up idled fine for 30 secs, then the idle started to get erratic up and own for 15 secs leveled off and the car ran fine. I drove for 10 minutes turned the car off for a couple of hours came ack started her up and engine light came on no rough idle or anything.
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When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
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Two days ago my 2005 T went in to have a heated driver seat switch replaced. Since getting it back we now have an annoying red light flashing from just to the top right of the Nav screen. Light flashes until either the radio is switched on or engine is started. I've checked the owners manual and forum but can't find any info on it.
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I've got nearing 160,000 miles on my GLS and the first 150k were absolutely flawless. However, I have recently noticed I'm losing nearly 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. The exhaust isn't smoking and there is no noticeable oil leaking inside the engine bay. Where it might be going?
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I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
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Got the TPMS light after ~1,000 miles of driving. Checked the pressure on all four and all read around 32psi. Pumped all up a few pounds, held the reset TPMS button in the glove box for 2 seconds with the ignition off. Now about a week later, I have the light on again and all 4 tires appear to be fine visually. What gives?
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I had my timing chain tensioner replaced. When they do this do they touch the serpentine belt tensioner? 1000 miles after the timing replaced, my serpentine belt shredded and they say I need a new serpentine belt tensioner. Does this sound correct?
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I have a pretty bad flex pipe leak on my 20th. Would this leak cause a very rough idle almost stalling when I come to a complete stop. The Idle fluctuates from almost stalling to 1000rpms.
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I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
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My 2013 Subaru outback four-cylinder is burning 2/3 of a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It is not leaking anywhere so I know it is burning the oil. The dealership says I need to replace the engine, I'm just wondering is it bad on anything else in the car if I keep driving it for a little while before replacing it? how much longer I could go?
FYI: The power train warranty is void because of rear end damage and a rebuilt title.
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my car is losing a quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles the car is not leaking or burning oil. why is this happening and where is the oil going .how do i stop this from happening the car is a 2009 toyota camry with a four cylinder engine
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My 2002 Jeep GC (4.7 HO) is losing about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. I've replaced the PCV elbow and this didn't work at all. There are no leaks underneath or anywhere else I can find. I never have blue exhaust either. I'm completely at a loss.
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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Hyundai Elantra 2003 ( 140000 KMs) Okay has happened the last 2 times, after putting gas in car. When I turn the key, engine revs up pretty high, about 3000 rpm and then car stalls. Will happen 2 or three times but does start if I give it some gas...
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I have a 2008 Ford Focus - 4 Door Sedan SE 60300 miles.
I've gone to 3 mechanics now and no one can seem to figure out whats wrong with my car. Here's whats happening:
About 1 1/2 years ago I took my car to get an oil change at Jiffy Lube (Yeah never again). When I left, my car was idling funny... Silly me didn't take it right back and have them tell me what was wrong.. so I let it go, well about a month later it started idling even weirder. Basically it feels like my car is shaking when it gets under 1000 RPM and I notice my RPM dial start falling and bouncing back, acting like its going to stall, but never does. I notice a loss of power when this is happening (on speed up and just accelerating in general). All of this is random, I can't seem to put a pattern to it as to when it happens. One day I'll start it up and everything is perfect... Then I'll shut it off and restart it later, and it starts vibrating and puttering again... No signals as to if its hot/cold or wet/dry, no environmental variables seem to cause it to happen anymore than others. And there is no check engine light on, everything "looks" normal.
What I've had done to it so far is:
Air filter changed / reseated
3 oil changes (keep getting told it will work)
Throttle cleaned
Computer reset for idle sensor data rebuilding
Now I'm told that I need new engine mounts, and that could be the reason for the vibration. I'm thinking that the vibration caused the mounts to wear out, more so than the mounts being the cause. Mainly because I don't see how bad mounts could cause loss in power/bad idling.
What could be wrong?!? Really bugging me and don't want to keep throwing money at it for phantom solutions. Seems like mechanics I go to can't figure it out unless there is a check engine light on with some diagnosis code to tell them exactly whats wrong.
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