Touareg :: Exhaust Malfunction Light - Choppy Ride / Engine Hesitant And Misfiring
Jan 16, 2004
When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
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Well after 8 weeks on owning this touareg this is the second warning light we have to deal with and also had the dead battery scenerio which took 2 trips for them to fix.. Man this is crappy for sure. I am busy at work and do not have time to search around so any info would be great about another TSB that I have to take in to the dealership or anything.
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I just recently purchased an 05 Touareg V6 and I am a little concerned regarding the acceleration I am getting like after stopping at a light or trying to get on the highway. It seems that it takes this vehicle about 5-10 seconds to realize that it needs to get moving. However, after it does realize what it needs to do, the acceleration is fine. I was told different things such as it could be the turbo system and one thing I find very hard to believe that this is a characteristic of all VW's. I like my VW and don't want to get rid of it but would prefer better acceleration
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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It has 85K miles and rides very choppy/harsh. I feel even a very small dip/hump/bump when driving and it's coming from rear of the car.
What needs to be replaced and/or checked other than the rear shocks? Everything is stock and correct tire pressure.
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The engine sometimes has misfiring, and the VCDS reports "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 7, sporadically". I changed the spark plug, the injector and the ignition coil. So the problem remained and after about 600-800kms the fault came back. Now I moved a little bit the cables of the injector plug and I noticed that the problem is solved, until a few hundred kms were driven. The cyl. 7 is near front side and I could move the cables to the injector plug under the intake manifold.
Now I know, that the problem is the plug of injector (see pics)....
My question.... I bought the plug but it is not the complete like on the pics, it's only the middle part where the cables go in. It has not this sponge-like thing which is in the whole in which goes in the cable. The grey thing which locks the plug is also not in the new plug. Maybe if I have to exchange this small parts on the new plug? I can't imagine how to change the plug, do I have to cut the cables and put them in the new plug. What kind of attachement do the cables have in this plastic plug?
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I have 120K on my 2004 V6 and have been driving with the Exhaust light on steady for about 1000 miles. Tonight after filling up at my usual Chevron with Techron Premium gas station, my engine started stalling and I lurched the 2 miles home. I took off the gas cap to see if reclosing it changed things and it did not. I had the coil pack recall work done 30K miles ago. I'm thinking fuel pump, having it towed to the shop?
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have a 99 ford super duty with a 5.4 triton that is having a troublesome misfire. When you first fire it up it has a bit of a stutter then runs relatively smooth but the engine does still have a small shake to it and you can hear a bit of a choppy sound in the exhaust. Not completely smooth. When you drive it light footed it seems to run perfectly smooth and nice. But if you go past half throttle (sometimes you can go past that point) it starts to cough and is very slow at picking up.
When you reach between 3,250 and 4,500rpm the coughing stops. But the pick up is a little surgy, not steady. It was doing this for a while before the engine light came on. I got it scanned and it showed a miss fire on cylinder two so I have replaced the spark plug, coil, and injector but still the same issue. I opened up the catalytic converter to see if it was plugged up. Nothing there.
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2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (MAX) ... This had happened before 3x, but was about to turn truck off and wait 10 second and turn back on. Then truck would run fine for months. I found this on my truck manual.
My truck is riding differently. Here's the story - I put new tires on Friday, an hour later, my truck started to ride rough. The light on dashboard is; Check engine, Engine power lost (truck would not get up when this was shown on dash. This error has not come up again), stibilitrac check. Truck's driving performance; Idle sputters (like RPM rising, but they are not, it’s just the engine shaking), once driving when it shifts hard at 3000 RPMs (only 2nd gear). I took my truck to Advance, and this was the error code I received; #6 Cylinder Misfiring and Actuator module.
I changed all spark plugs and number #6 was very dirty compared to the other and smelt very much so like gas. I have not driven this truck only cracked and it stayed in park. I had a person look at it, and he said that the #6 cylinder was the only problem he could find when he hooked up his code thingy. Now he played with everything and took out the #6 spark plug (this is now Tues) and said that it didn't smell of gas like it should have. At the end. he stated that we first should change the Injector for #6. and if that did not correct the problem, then he would recommend the lifters to be replaced. I asked how confident he was about "his" diagnosis. and he stated.... I am not a GM mechanic... wow. now I am confused as to what I should really do! BTW, he never cleared the error codes...
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Okay, I had this before for the right side, and dealer changed bulb. Cost me alot. So, when I got this message recently for the left, went to my mechanic friend. Thought the bulb in question is the fog light in the lower bumper. He took out the old one, which was blown btw, and replaced it. Still getting the message. Not sure why.
How to address this? Are the curve light bulbs infact the driving lights, or is it something else. Thought it was driving lights as the curve feature is disabled if you turn them on. Also, the bulb was in fact blown. I guess I could have had two bulbs out, but that's unlikely.
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My T-rex was in recently for what seemed like 30 recalls... In the midst of it...my turn signal light bulb went out. They changed it...good thing cause you need to remove the ENTIRE headlight assembly with a special tool, etc. Well...my headlight now goes on/off as it hits bumps etc...was back in once to have it fixed...and has since started again. I noticed the entire assembly does not fit as well (tight) as it did originally, nor like the other assembly that has never been touched. Appears to have been the first assembly they have worked on and broke something cause now it does not mount properly...so after all that...
Had this headlight assembly removed?
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Our 05 mercury monterey is riding rough and the check engine light is blinking all of a sudden. Two days back while driving home it was raining and we accidentally drove through a puddle, did not notice due to night time. After that it suddenly the light started to blink and engine felt rough. Checked the code yesterday morning and it showed cylinder 3 misfiring, no other codes came up. No one was available to check it yesterday and today. Have not started it again. Anything can be done before taking to the mechanic? I believe the number 3 cylinder is at the back side and not accessible easily. What could have happened?
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I drive a 2005 touareg with 111,000 miles. We are faithful with ALL maintenance. This morning I woke up to my car covered in ash (due to all the wildfires in the area I live...Idaho) and my exhaust warning light came on. It is steady yellow. Not flashing. My car drives exactly the same. I tried to contact the dealer but have not heard back.
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My exhaust system light came on today shortly after re-fueling. I called the dealer and the service advisor suggested that I open the gas cap and re-close it making sure that it clicks. If that is the problem he said the light should go off in a few key cycles. There is no warning in the MFI. In the manual it says that there is an MFI warning about the fuel cap that says "CHECK FUEL CAP" and that the message will go away in about 10 minutes after you click the gas cap and restart the vehicle. I do not have anything in the MFI and it seems to be running just fine. (V-8)
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My exhaust emission light has been coming on intermittently lately . I had it to the dealer last week but the light wasn't on at the time. The computer showed no error codes therefor they had no clue. When I took it in this week fortunately it was on at the time and must have triggered a computer error( cam fault ) What could this mean? I am supposed to take it back in a week. It seems to run ok but my gas mileage has dropped off about 2 mpg. there is only 22,700 on the clock...
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Just got back from getting the famous alternator cable replaced and approx after the 3rd start I now have the exhaust light come on?
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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My truck is for the most part fine, but it's doing some strange things and I'm wanting to get some opinions before I go and tow a trailer 300 miles next weekend.
Last weekend when I started my truck I had the CEL on for about a minute, then it went away. Not sure if it was an influencing factor, but it was sitting outside in the sun in 100 degree weather before I started it. Truck ran fine for the 300 mile trip home that day. Two days ago, I drove to my parents house. It ran fine the whole way there and as I pulled up into the driveway, the engine randomly got really choppy like it went down a couple cylinders or something. Not sure how to explain it. I pulled forward the last 50 feet or so I needed to drive with the engine chopping up, parked, unloaded the stuff I brought, and fired the truck back up to go home. It was running perfectly fine again and drove back home without an issue like nothing ever happened.
Is there any components I should be checking out on the truck before I make my next trip 4th of July weekend or just brush it off as being a fluke? Truck has 230k miles on it.
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I've got a '96 Sierra manual transmission with 215K that's been running fine. I just ran it 400 miles without a problem. Recently I downshifted into fourth to go up a hill and I had a sudden loss of power and a rough ride like I had a flat tire. The harder I press the gas the rougher the ride and it idles almost normally. The check engine light came on and blinks 12 times.
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engine light came on 3 days ago....engine/transmission seemed to be "misfiring" a bit.....engine light went off after 3 days.....took in today, computer says some "transmission sensor/module" not working properly.....will take 3 hrs to repair but warranty covering it.
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