My garage is about 200 ft from the road and every morning when I backout the drive way I get the engine surge about 4-5 times, so its like I am flooring it when I am backing up, letting off, then flooring it.
View 1 RepliesThe chime goes 6 times on engine start up. It is repeated every 30 seconds 10 times, i.e. the last series start at 4 1/2 min., a total of 60 clanks. After this it does not sound again if you don't turn the engine off. The seat belt can be removed, the door may be opened - no chime. But if you stop and restart the engine, it starts the process all over again.
View 1 RepliesOn my V6 2004 (just hit 120,000 kms, just changed the oils 2 weeks ago) I was driving on the hiway yesterday, when the whole vehicle started shaking and vibrating - engine light blinked a few times, then stayed ON solid.
I could reduce the shaking by letting go on the throttle pedal, so I stopped and checked, nothing obvious, oil level good etc. I could hear some sort of clunking noise when engine was revved up.
I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
View 5 RepliesOur Egg will occasionally surge at steady speeds - i.e it will jerk fore and aft with no change in accelerator pedal settings. This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when ambient temperatures are low. It isn't yet annoying enough to warrant a trip to the dealer (they seem clueless about this car anyway!).
View 12 RepliesTo make a long story long, my v6 developed a hesitation on startup after being driven and then sitting for a few hours. Sometimes so bad it almost dies - popping noise from under the bonnet and lurching would best describe the symptoms, the harder you press the accelerator the worse the symptoms. After about 5 to 10 seconds of driving goes away and never happens again until it sits of another few hours. Somewhat disconcerting when you decide to pull out in front of traffic....
Also recently started surging on freeway slightly and worse going up mountain passes at freeway speeds, may or may not be related. Does not have anything to do with brake predal being depressed, I can pressed the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at same time and car will rev and accelerate immediately upon brake predal release.
Talked to service advisor who told me that I needed to be sure and run premium in my vehicle which I always do. A couple days later with continued issues talked to my service advisor who then told me that the fuel in the NW had a problem and that I needed to run only mid grade and that would take care of the problem, which it did not. Talked to my service advisor again and he said that I needed to run only regular, that regular seemed to be taking care of the problem with the regional bad fuel all along he has been claiming that other manufactures are having the same problem Volvo, Saab, Ford on certain models.
I went along with one tank of regular did not make a difference on the hesitation, but made my vehicle more underpowered than normal. At this point I made a 2000 mile trip to CA and used CA fuel which is another completely different gas formulation than any other state in the west - 4 tank fulls of CA fuel made no difference same problem, both hesitation and surging. Took it back to dealer who then tried to tell me that it is a whole US problem with fuel....I wanted to call BS at that point, but agreed to let them keep it for a checkout, they kept if for 24 hours checking it out no codes, VW told them to run injector cleaner through it.
This weekend I was driving home from my parents and noticed that on flat ground at a constant pace there seemed to be surging of some sort...Although I am not sure that surging is exactly what it was, but it is the best word to describe it.
Basically, if I kept my foot at an even speed (not accelerating or decelerating) I would get very subtle movement in what seemed to be either the differential or the transmission. No error codes were thrown and the battery gauge was spiked at 14 solid.
Just installed my Touareg Dash Cover and it was easy, but I need to hit the thing 4 or 5 times before it opens, is the way it is for everyone? I do have the new screws (small)!
View 9 RepliesMy mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
View 2 RepliesWhat is the VAG-COM code for changing the blinker so that it would blink 4 times instead of 3 when you just tap it. I tried searching for it and can't find it in the archives. What the code is, or where the message it?
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 Grand Am GT 3400. Just starting doing this, when you start the engine, it starts surging rhythmically as if you are pushing on the accelerator and letting off. When I put it in gear, I have to have the brake firmly pushed down as it lurches forward severely. I haven't driven it far, but it seems once you get going it runs fine.
View 3 RepliesYesterday I filled my V10 with diesel and as soon as I started the engine to leave the petrol station the car seemed to shudder.
I joined the traffic and passed it off intially as poor road surface. But as I joined a queue to enter the motorway I realised it was the engine!
It was sort of surging, or perhaps it's better explained by saying it was dropping, shuddering down from say 800 RPM to around 400 then picking back up again. I revved it to 1000 RPM and it seemed fine, but if I let it drop to idle is carried on leaping and jerking for about another 3 or 4 minutes.
I then entered the motorway and it responded fine and the problem has not come back so far.
What could it be? Missing on one cylinder? Is this going to be problem? Hope not
While I'm in the engine troubleshooting the AC system, I figured I may as well get into a few other issues I've noticed.
I have a stock 1.8T and my turbo feels like it's surging occasionally. A few months ago my diverter valve started making the "blow off sound" when I shifted (manual transmission).
Is it possible for a faulty diverter valve to dump the boost overboard and cause the turbo, and engine hp, to surge? It almost feels like I let my foot off the gas for a second or two (i.e., engine power is very peaky).
A second thing that comes to mind is a clogged fuel filter. I know VW does not recommend ever changing it so it's never been done. Is this a possibility as well?
Air filter is clean, by the way. There's a K&N washable one in the stock air box and I can see daylight through it so it's not too dirty.
So, I was just driving home from work in my 2005 Prius (~78k miles) when the engine started surging erratically and uncontrollably. I don't know if this is the cause, but I hit a bump right as I was hitting the gas and so I wasn't surprised when it revved up at first. But, then I backed off and it kept revving. Then I took my foot off the gas and it was still revving and accelerating so I had to start braking to keep going the same speed.
It kept erratically surging and then letting off as I basically kept braking at different levels to maintain speed or slow down when I could as we were coming to an intersection. The light turned red and I managed to get to a stop even though it was still revving, so I hit the P button and the engine calmed down. So, when traffic started again I slowly put it back in D and it surged again. We didn't move much before we had to stop again so I put it in P again. I noticed the battery icon was down to a few pink bars so I turned off the radio and air. Traffic started again and I put it in D and this time it seemed ok. I detected a faint smell that I think was probably from the brakes/tires being overheated, but it could've been something else maybe. It drove normally the rest of the way home.
Today after driving my roadtrip to work my car started surging! It happened leaving the light after i had gotten of the exit! Around 5500-6000 rpms and the engine light came on and started flashing. This went on for about 10 sec then the engine light went off and no more surging. Car had a half tank of gas also. Just a note i also have EVOMS intake.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota SR5 with a 6-cylinder engine. When I first start the car (cold start) in the morning it will run at high idle (1500-1800 rpm) for about 3-4 minutes. At this point, the idle will begin to drop, but then the engine starts to surge. It's a noticeable surge that bounces from around 900-1100 rpm. It almost seems like an electrical surge, but I don't believe that's the problem. After running the car for a while and it's fully warmed up to operating temperature, the surge goes away. My thoughts automatically went to the IAC (idle air control) or maybe a temp sensor?
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
View 1 Replies1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
I have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
View 2 Replies2001 Regal GS Supercharged 3.8 with 120K
After a normal start, about 30 seconds later, the engine starts to shutter with RPM dropping low and surging. If I do not play with gas pedal will ultimately stall. Once it is past its fit, which lasts about a minute, maybe a little more, the engine then runs and performs fine until the next start. This happens with a cold or hot engine. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter. Still have the issue. All battery connections, grounds, etc. are good. No check engine light.
When it starts to shutter it is significant. Reminds me of trying to start a cold piston aircraft engine on a cold day after a couple shots of primer and goosing the throttle.
Last winter, I noticed the engine was surging intermittently after start-up, until the engine warmed up. No issues on warmer days, spring/summer, etc.. Recently, the check engine light came on, so I took it into the shop. The shop did not feel the problem was the throttle body, and replaced the mass air flow sensor. The engine is still doing the surging thing after starting up.
View 17 Replies