Just to save you all some time.... If your car goes into limp mode, and/or cruise stops working, and the EPC light comes on..... We had over a week of downtime and hundreds of $ out to find out that the literally brake light switch broke - its apparently flimsy and triggers all kinds of electrical faults..
View 1 RepliesI am one of the few that has ADC on my 2004 V10.
Occasionally, 3 times now. I press the ON button and the cruise control does not initialize properly. After a while it will say "Temporarily unavailable" . The problem is that then there is no power any more.
I stop on the hard shoulder of the motorway, engine off, engine on and all is reset, ADC works ok and full power is restored.
33K and no problems until this morning. Wife gets 400 yards down the street, car "lurches" and goes into limp mode. Transmission won't shift out of whatever gear its stuck in (going forward) Car will back up. Only indication of any possible trouble is occasionally the very first time the transmission shifts in the morning from 1st into 2nd its a little spirited rather than silky smooth.
View 5 RepliesSo on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
View 7 RepliesPassat 2008/09 TSI engine 16k miles. APR stage 2+
I was driving normally and suddenly EPC light comes on, and the engine goes to limp mode. I turn the engine off and then turn on again. Everything runs fine. Vag shows N276 intermittent fail. I had already this fail, but always when starting engine, and the engine used to run OK. Is this a "sign" that is time to replace the HPFP? Or can I take the chance and keep running?
My vehicle shows currently two awkward behaviors:
1) I can start the vehicle using the keyless start button without having to step on the brake pedal.
2) I can switch on cruise control. The green symbol appears, however, I cannot set a speed. The system simply seems to ignore that I press the set button.
My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
View 5 Replies2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg
When I start my car the ASR light is already on and I cannot turn it off by hitting the button. It's just permanently on. Then as I start to drive and step on the throttle and get above 3000rpm the ECP light turns on and my car goes into "limp mode". Then in idle the engine stutters and RPMs go up and down, up and down. I'll turn off the car and the ECP light disappears but comes right back on again after getting above 3000rpm.
Thing is, these issues only appeared immediately after the following:
-Disconnected and reconnected CCM (checking for faulty wiring, battery was connected during this)
-Disconnected battery terminals for 3 minutes and reconnected them (no key in ignition)
Did I cause an issue by disconnecting battery?
So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
Just set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
View 21 RepliesBought a 2012 Sonata GLS back on July 3rd. I've had 3 instances where I'll be running on cruise control, I'll disengage it and then when I go to resume it doesn't do anything. I can turn Cruise on and off but it will not Set nor Resume. I have to stop and turn the car off and then back on for it to work again. I have a service appointment this Saturday for an alignment issue so I'm going to have them check this out too.
View 88 Replies2001 Ranger 3.0 liter has developed a transmission casualty. I was driving along at 30 mph and the transmission went into "limp' mode with O/D light flashing and truck will only barely creep along with high engine rpm. When I got the truck home I was able to retrieve a p0720, output shaft speed sensor signal fault. I had hoped that replacing the sensor would solve this casualty.
Of course this was not the case. I have read all the posts I can find for this particular fault and realize that I must electrically trace the continuity of this circuit and also ensure that it's not grounded. I have been unable to find the needed wiring diagrams or pin out information.
Before I have to try and blindly start pawing through the connectors I'm looking for the pinout for the PCM and perhaps the bulk connector above the engine between the PCM and the transmission wiring harness. I am also keen to hear of any diagnostic tips that I may have overlooked.
While driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
I have a 03 GLI 24V VR6 6 speed and im having an issue with the brake light.. ive checked all the fuses and emergency brake sensor and they are all good, the issue is the brake light flashes 3 times then will stay on almost immediately and whenever it does the entire drive of the car changes.. without the light on the car runs fine but when it comes on its like the car goes to a limp mode and is leaning out on fuel.. it wont rev past 4k it falls on its face and basically jerks along until I get where I am going.. I've replaced ABS speed sensors, MAF, and front brakes and axles recently.. before this was an random issue that would come and go but now its almost every time and it makes it undriveable..
View 1 RepliesMy wife and I are driving our 2005 Prius with 130k miles and have experienced some weirdness with the car while driving. We've got the master warning light (red triangle w/ !), and another yellow (!) warning light, plus the center display shows a red car with an !. I've gathered that it means something possibly with the brake controller, so when I parked I put the e-brake on.
The car was driving fine with these lights on (we were in the middle of Canadian highways and couldn't stop anywhere) except that cruise control would not work.
Eventually, it actually went into limp mode, where we would floor the pedal and the car would barely accelerate. Pulled over, turned it off for a few minutes, then back on and it drove fine, warning lights still on.
I just replaced the driver's front wheel hub, and I can hear the passenger front going bad, so I'm suspicious that this may be related. Just replaced the 12v within the last few months with an Optima.
I have a 2002 vw golf and its epc light keeps coming on and every time I reach 4000 rpm it goes into limp mode, what is the problem.
View 2 RepliesTruck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).