06/2003 Touareg V8 Driver side fuel pump shut off after 15-20 sec after start is that normal? I know that the passenger side is stuck and needs to be replaced but just wanting to be sure that the driver side pump is supposed to act like this.
View 1 RepliesThis applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesAt some point I learned that the fuel pump is supposed to go off when I open the driver side door and after I notice it stopped I took it to a shop shop and they tried to get it to start and had to bang it wit a rubber mallat , after that they told me the pump has failed so I bought a new one (VDO) brand and installed it myself the car felt like it drove better and it made the noise when I open the driver side door in the mornings a couple of weeks after it stopped and I felt my car was back to how it was before , I still get the noise when I turn the key 3/4 of the way and have no issues starting the car coincidentally, I am noticing my car wont lock when I use the keyfob unless I do it manually, is the pump not priming because of the door module has failed too?
View 2 RepliesI have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
Ever since i have had my car i have had a slight problem re-fueling. The pressure inside the tank doesn't seem to vent correctly and the filler neck seems to back up with fuel and shuts off the pump (too much back pressure) when i'm only ~30% full. I can elevate the problem by re-fuelling slow enough so that the pressure can vent back through the filler neck but it gets rather annoying to sit at the pump for 10 minutes re-fueling.
View 15 RepliesSo it has happened twice now that gas will NOT go into the tank on my 2001 Saturn L200. The pump immediately shuts off and gas spills out. From some research I believe there is a kinked hose but where and why did this happen 2 months ago and then now after several fill ups between. The first time it happened the problem fixed itself after sitting for a day, I guess I'll find out today if that is the case.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2008 Prius Touring and originally it was only the passenger headlight that would go out but since I've had it replaced not only is the driver's side going out and flickering but the passenger side still shuts off! If I get the driver's headlight (which is very old) replaced will it solve the problem? Is it a deeper problem? If so what is it and how do I fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that just started not filling up. The pump kicks off every couple seconds. From reading other posts it sounds like its the evap canister (wife would often top off the tank). The question is, does the evap canister need replaced or do the hoses need cleaned? Is there an easy way to get the hoses off?
View 4 RepliesThis has happened twice so far, both with around 1/2 tank. After driving for ~25 minutes to work, I will go to shut the car off, and after pushing the key in and pulling it out, there is a mechanical noise from the rear of the car that lasts for about 2 full seconds. Is this the sound of the fuel pump on its way out? Or just an electrical gremlin (no! not in a VW!)?
View 7 RepliesAs the title says, I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was bought brand new back in September. I now have 6,300 miles on it.
Anyways, started it up last night, and started backing down my driveway that has a bit of an incline. Basically, I just have to ride the brake into the street, no acceleration needed.
As soon as the car got into the street, the engine just stopped. Not stuttering or anything, just like I had turned the key off, but all electrical systems still on. Put it in park, foot on brake, and it would not even turn over, just a dead key.
So, turned the key off, removed key, opened door, and re-attempted to start. Engine started at this point.
Needless to say, I'm a little unnerved at a brand new $30K vehicle doing this at only 6K miles. Dealership can't get it in until next Thursday.
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump will randomly continue to run after shutting the vehicle off for about 5 seconds. Fuel pump is extremely loud and after shutting off the vehicle the pump sounds like this (make a fuel pump noise outloud and read) - "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee wee wee weeeeeeeeeee" and then shuts off. I've owned a slew of vehicles (5 other diesel trucks included) and not a one of them has done this.
I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
I was letting my truck idle to work on a cooling issue when I noticed oil coming from my fuel pump! What would cause this? It wasn't coming from were the pump bolts to the timing cover it was coming out of the side of the pump it looked like? I'm going to get a new one.
View 7 RepliesOur recently purchased '04 V8 Touareg is increasingly sounding like a jet turbine engine upon start-up, and especially as winter approaches. We're told it is probably the DC-powered fuel pump. Any way to reduce the aural effect?
View 12 RepliesI notice that not only does the fuel pump primes when the drivers door is opened but also when the rear hatch opens.
View 2 RepliesI have broken alum housing it looks bad , but still works. I can get two after market from rock auto for one 50.00 and anther for 60.00, the dealer is getting 160.00 what do I do?
View 6 RepliesI know this has been an issue for awhile and many may know about it but many probably don't. The issue is dirt and salt debri etc get packed behind the Fuel pump driver module rot it out and without warning you have a crank no start or worse it dies going down the road then you and the family are stranded or worse while towing on a trip. I made a video on how it happens and how to fix it with the solution Ford came up with. It is worth checking even if you don't seem to be having any issues yet......
View 5 RepliesI sent my T in last week because I was not getting "cold" air out of the passenger side vents, at least not as cold as the drivers side. The Dealer has acknowledged the problem but is having a hard time (with wvoa) finding a solution. They've returned the T to me until they can find a fix, hoping to keep from removing the entire dash.
I ran some tests of my own this weekend. When in ECON mode, both sides put out the same temp; only when the compressor is on do the temps vary. I have heard gurgling in the dash since I bought the T and when in ECON the gurgle goes away (compressor is off).
Question: Could the system be low on frion (or whatever coolant)? Are there two separate evaporators for dual zone? I'm thinking (hoping) yes on both. Maybe one evaporator is getting a full mix of coolant and the other is not......could this be the gurgling I keep hearing?
I'll bring the T in tomorrow and ask them to recharge the system if any of you agree with this theory. I hate to think the dealer will have to rip the entire dash apart to fix this situation.
I have a 2005 Avalon ltd. 60,000 mi. I love my car! the low beam
Headlight on the drivers side goes on but then after approx. 30-45 seconds goes out. The passenger side and the brights are ok.
How do you replace the low beam bulb? which bulb do I purchase?
Is there a video showing the way to get at and remove/replace the bulb.
I noticed on the drive in today that with my headlights on -- every six seconds the drivers side headlight would flicker / flash brighter (not go dark) for a split moment -- very consistent time would elapse between each flicker. I identified it was the drivers side when I was at a stoplight behind another vehicle. (reflection) Upon arriving to the office I noticed the drivers side low beam headlight was blue and the passenger side was regular color. (matching the fog light)
I assume the drivers side is a Xenon and the passenger side was replaced with a non-Xenon bulb? Also, on a drive during lunch I noticed a warning light flicker under my low wiper fluid warning light -- over a half hour period it only flashed twice, yet the second time I noticed it looked like a light bulb. Is this attempting to warn me about my headlights?
I recently purchased Prius 3 last month and noticed a rattle noise about 4 to 5 seconds when I opened the driver side door every morning. Is this normal or should I take the car to the dealer?
View 2 RepliesI am a new owner of my first truck and it is a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0L Extended Edge with 138,000 miles on it. I keep getting a chirping noise coming from driver side of truck. It only happens when I have the AC on. I can turn AC to just air and the chirping stops. This only happens when I am driving. If I have my truck parked in drive with the hood up, I go and turn on AC full blast and I hear no chirping. I can see AC compressor turn on a few seconds after I start the truck and it is not cycling on or off every few seconds as some people I have asked told me it should do. AC air is ice cold so I should have enough freon. Now this chirping is not constant like a machine gun going off but just about every 5 seconds or so it would chirp. I have heard of bad camshaft sensors causing chirping but would that happen every few seconds and only when you are driving down the road with the AC on? Now I have noticed when truck has sat for a long time I get belt squeal for a few seconds and it then goes away. I think the squeal goes away when AC compressor starts because I observed this when looking for this random chirp. Any clues?
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