Touareg :: Differential Is Not Locked / Parking Brake Won't On
Oct 14, 2007
I have an '08 T2 and this issue may be unique to this new version of the Touareg. Here's the deal...
Let's say I am driving at 30 MPH on city streets. When I apply the brake, I "feel" what I would describe as periodic engine braking occurring simultaneously. I also experience this periodically in all sorts of driving situations when I am not accelerating. In other words, the truck doesn't always just coast freely. This "feeling" doesn't really slow the truck, it's just a feeling like some sort of resistance is taking place. I have also described it as a hum but it's only slightly audible.
I am in DRIVE with the A/C running . I have 800 miles now but it's been happening since I picked up the truck. Oh - no, the parking brake is not on and the differential is not locked.
When I took my truck in to have the CD changer installed, I tried to describe this to the tech. They ultimately said it is probably one or more of the various pumps. It was also suggested that it may be the A/C compressor but I haven't been able to determine that it truly the case.
I am becoming so frustrated with this that I am considering going to another VW dealer in a friend's car to test drive another T2 and see what it does. I need to figure out if this is just something a T2 does or mine is screwed up.
Again, there have been so many changes in the 2008 model so it may be unique to this new design. Unfortunately, they just came out so I don't know how many owners are out there yet.
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When the stepper motor goes, does it fell like the all the diff's are locked up when you are turning?
This is happening to my 04 now with 75 000 km on her. What part do I tell the dealer to get in for me?
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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Mine is a 2015 ES350. I drove it normally on last Friday. Today Monday morning, the car can't be started. Other symptoms are no any lights, stiff brake, shift locked in parking position, no clank with a jump starter.
The battery connection is tight; I also tried both keys and holding it right next to the start button. It seems like the car system is shut down.
I may call AAA to tow to dealer. However, the shift is in parking mode. Is there any way I can override the shift to N?
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I have bi-xenon lamps and DRLs. The manual states that the DRLs are supposed to turn off when the transmission is in Park and the parking brake is engaged. My DRLs do NOT turn off.
So, my question is: Do your DRLs turn off when the car's in Park and the parking brake is engaged?
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Just got a 2016 V6 Lux. I have a question cerning the electric parking brake.
I noticed that at times when I slowly park into a parking space with an obstacle (such as a wall or another car in front), the electric parking brake would engage automatically. Is this an issue or a feature?
To me, this is annoying since sometimes the electric parking brake would engage when I am not ready to fully stop the car yet (need to park further in). It seems that it is related to the parking sensors.
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for the past few weeks when turning corners the outer rear tyre is skipping as if the diff is locked. was thinking of taking it into the mechanincs and maybe replacing it, but now the problem has gone no skipping when turning. could this be an electrical problem mayb a sensor?
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This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.
In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.
At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.
I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.
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Just started recently on my 2007 Camry. The doors lock by themselves several minutes after I park it in the garage.
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Came home after a run to mcdonalds in my chysler and the 1997 dodge caravan that we own was in driveway running with parking lights on the van doors locked.
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Twice now while out messing around in the snow, I have noticed that the center differential low range selector button has popped up.
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I have an 04' Touareg V8 that I have owned since new. It currently has 97k miles. It recently has developed a high pitched hum that seems to come on at 30mph+. The sound seems to come from the middle of the car. The car is at the dealer and I want to hear some unbiased post regarding this.
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I am on occasion getting a warning on my instrument cluster regarding my locking diff. System Fault!! Workshop!! is displayed. As well the adjustment knob on the center console flashes yellow.
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It's Sunday afternoon and -20 degrees in northern Wisconsin. We are at the cabin after a nice weekend in the snow. I start the treg and the MFI has a yellow differential symbol. Displaying Status, the MFI says "System Fault" and "Workshop!" That doesn't sound good so I call 24 Hr assistance and they can send a tow truck 90 miles but that can't tell me what the warning means. Naturally, the Owner's lit says nothing about this warning.
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I had the differential control module recall/flash performed last week and now the car makes a whining noise at speeds north of 35mph. The noise seems to emanate from the front of the car (near the radiator). The dealer was able to hear the sound -- and unable to diagnose the problem. They reflashed the stepper -- and the noise remained.
They moved the stepper motor, drove the car -- and the noise remained. Finally, they put the stepper back in -- reflashed it -- and then the noise went away. Subsequently, I drove the car noise-free for about 250 miles (over several days) -- and then the noise came back. I'm also having the same problem that others report about the tight-radius binding when turning (which the flash was supposed to solve).
questions:
1) any experience of whining noise after the flash recall
2) i see that some had the stepper motor replaced...what was the underlying reason?
3) it seems that the stepper is the problem -- but could it really be the differential that's not keeping the right ratios?
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It happened once while I was driving around in low differential. The message read something like:
Drive More Slowly or shift to High Differential
I was only doing about 5mph when this happened and haven't been able to reproduce the error.
This is only the third unique error message my Touareg has shown me in its first 8 months of life. I wonder how many different error messages are programed into this car. (I bet there are many). I'm not being critical. I find it fascinating. I have never driven a car that was so in touch with its inner workings as this Touareg.
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MY V8 Touareg with P+, Nav etc is in the shop today...My wife went to start it yesterday and the car completely went crazy...it would not start, the lights went crazy and finally the key was locked in the ignition....This is the second time this has happened...I'm getting pretty frustrated. Dealer was no support, they think we don't know how to start the car!
Anyway, looking into my State Lemon Law. Car is great, but don't want to spend $50K on a car that won't start and cause so many issues! Roadside has been called twice thus far. Tha car has 1,900 miles on it. The Tire gauge does not work, the memory seats don't work. I think the car is great, but too many issues.
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My steering wheel locked up on me after i parked it it now says steering defective workshop..... I can't start it nor change gears it does nothing...the battery in the remote is fine what do i do?
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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The red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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