Touareg :: Clicking Sound In Dash At Highway Speeds Like Solenoid Flipping On And Off
Nov 3, 2005
I did a search and see that this random clicking sound has been discussed but a source never identified. Thought I'd ask again 'cause mine is doing it more often and it's driving me nuts now that I hear it. Mostly at highway speeds, not tied to any particular function or steering wheel turning. It's like a solenoid flipping on and off. I know I could never get the dealer to replicate it and I assume if many Tregs have it, it's just a normal function but thought I'd ask.
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Our V6 just turned 40k and it's developed some interesting sounds. First of all, from time to time at highway speed a whirring/whinning sound has developed. I was driving down the road the other night, no rain, about 60 degrees temp outside, and between 50 and 80 mph this noise seemed constant. I turned off the radio, turned off the climate control and the problem still existed.
It *sounds* like a drive train noise (my old jeep would make a sound when it was in a low gear that is similar). Second, also intermittent, a clicking relay from inside the dash on the drivers side. The frequency and rate are inconsistent and I can't correlate it to anything happening while driving.. just highway driving.
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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About a month ago my Touareg started making loud rumbling noises at highway speeds. It sounds and feels (it makes the whole truck vibrate) like you're driving on the "wake me up bumps" that are on the shoulder. Some times it last for 30 seconds and other times it goes on for the whole trip. It's driving me crazy; however the dealer can't reproduce the problem so they think I'm crazy. It doesn't do it all the time, however, the only common symptom is it happens at speeds above 65 mph. It has happened when it the car was cold and hot, cruise on and off and variable highway speeds. The transmission was replaced right after I received the car due to a malfunction, so the dealer doesn't think this could be a second faulty transmission.
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Clicking sound behind the dashboard? it happens every once in a while and it's a little disconcerting. I can't tell if it's electrical or just loose parts clicking around.
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Been driving the treg for a month now and liking it , getting ready for its first (for us) trip to Tahoe on Thursday. This evening while coming home there was a slight clicking/rustling sound from behind the dash then a message comes on the screen "put drive lever into the position P" or something very similar. I stopped the car, re-started it, tried it in all drives, and the message kept coming on for a few seconds then disappearing. What this means?
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My 94 ranger 4.0 v-6 makes clicking noises when hauling a load at highway speeds. How do i correct this?
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I've been having a problem which i cant seem to find the fix for. My ABS and ECS dash light keep turning on. Its intermittent and does not stay on. Ive noticed that it usually happens if I travel at highway speeds for more than 15miles. I had the brakes x4 changed 1 year ago and all brake pads show good life. Brake fluid is at a good level with no leaks to be seen. I am wondering if its one of the sensors? How can one check for that? I have a 2006 3.3l GLS with 86k.
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I have a 04 v6 model , in the last couple of months when I am on the interstate at about 75-80 mph. I get a very loud vibrating noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. The dealer thinks the drive shaft has some play in it.
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I notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
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The temperature has dropped down into the 30s here and in my 2011 Gen 3 Prius, when I am driving at highway speeds (55mph-75mph), and go over any sort of light bump or rough road (gently rough, nothing significant just normal "imperfect" highway bumps), there is a rattling sound coming from the front of the dashboard where it meets the windshield that can only be described as the same sound that your hand makes when it's rubbing a balloon! Not your normal plastic random rattle, but like "rubbing a balloon with your hand quickly" sound.
I don't mind that other plastic random rattles from time to time (I am not OCD about the imperfections of how much plastic is in the car), but this is obnoxious and I feel like I'm literally driving a clown car. Is there some sort of lubricant or adhesive that is between where the dashboard and windshield meet that has possibly dried out, that the dealership could quickly fix or apply? I'll still under full warranty at 22k miles.
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The last couple of days I've noticed a strange sound that come on under boost accelerating at highway speeds. It's a harsh ssshhhh sound that rises in frequency with engine RPM, sort of between a wood lathe and a bench grinder. happens under mid to WOT. It almost seems like I am loosing a little HP as well but I can't confirm that. It's loud enough to hear it in the cabin and with the windows down I can definitely hear it. It's not really fluttering, that I'm used to being on my 3rd tuned 2.0T
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I have a 2007 F150 King Ranch Super Crew 5.4 3v and it makes a ticking sound. I have read about the VCT solenoids and the phasers. My issue is that the ticking noise can be heard at Highway speeds. At it seems to be quicker as the engine speed increase. Not sure what to think. No rough idle. What could this be.
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All's going well for 10 miles and then I suddenly notice, the in-dash flasher indicator, is not working or clicking as I change lanes. The outside mirrors are fine - showing turn flashes. So, I pull off into a gas station and shut down the whole electric system, and pull the key out.
I reboot and start up, but still no change. I try to put the emergency button off/on...it works fine. I move the flasher stick back and forth. But still no turn flasher indicator, on the inside dash. So, I guess it's a blown fuse and I will attend to it Sunday in daylight. We go to the restaurant, have dinner and get back into this scrambled egg. I stick the key in and ACHTUNG IT WORKS!
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After disassembling what felt like the whole front end of the truck, I finally gain access to the danged thing. Mine has been acting up intermittently for about year and half I guess. When flipping to switch to signal turning, it started making a buzzing sound. At first it was doing it most of the time. Then it cleared up and started working right for several months, then act up, the act right. Well, now it makes the buzzing noise more often than not so i decided to address it. I went to Oreilly, they didn't have one, but told me the part number.
I went across the street to Autozone, that had one on the shelf that was same part number as Oreilly. I put it in and when flipping the switch, the relay does it tick tock sounds like its working, except for there is no indication on the dash cluster that its working, nor are the actual lights working. I swap back to original and buzzing, put in new one and tick tock but no lights. Whats the deal? Is this one of those things that you have to go back to Ford? Or maybe i got a bum relay from parts house and should exchange for another to see if it works?
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2005 V8, 25k miles. This morning I started the car and heard a clicking noise in the dash right behind the keyhole. It was intermittent and sounded like a cricket as I was driving. It was not too loud, a few db less than a turn signal click. Every few seconds, the MFI message said "Place lever in P position" ... Nothing else doing anything abnormal. Car otherwise sounds and drives fine. The 4WD knob was in high for normal driving.
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What a great way to start the day! Nice little message on my MFD when I started the car up this morning. It drove to work just fine (which is right by the VW dealership) - but when I turned it off and started it again, the light was gone... Don't want to take any chances so I'll definitely bring it in. On a side note - I'm now hearing a clicking sound at speeds above 40mph. The noise gets faster as the car speeds up.
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I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
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I replaced my rear brake pads this weekend. I used oem pads and used the shims with CRC lubricant. I also compressed the brake calipers and made room for the new pads. I also tried to take off one of the rotors but it would not come off even with putting screws in the rotor.
Everything seemed fine and brakes were strong but when I went for a test drove there is a clicking sound at low to medium speeds come from the rear passenger side. I checked the retainer pins and they are on correctly.
What the problem may be? I would like to spin the wheel but the parking brake is on. Is it okay to take off the parking brake while jacked up if I block the wheels??
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