The check engine light came on today but nothing showed up in the instrument cluster to let me know if something was wrong.Gas cap(I got some gas just a couple of days ago but was wondering if that has something to do with it.02 sensor maybe.The light does not blink or anything like that but is permanently lit.
View 7 RepliesMy RX350 2012/13 model AWD check system and slip indicator warning light are permanently ON on the dashboard. The car is driving normal. How to clear the indications because I am very uncomfortable with it.
View 1 RepliesCheck engine light came on today shortly after start up. We had a foot of heavey wet snow last night and the car was outside. The car is running fine and the light is not flashing. Tried my OBD 2 code reader but it would not communicate with the vehicle. Will the light clear itself after so many start stop cycles? Is this a VAG-COM deal? '07 V-8 FSI, 11,000 Km(6500mi.). Emission related stuff I should be able to read with an OBD 2 code reader I thought, and the check engine light indicates emission problems right?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2005 V6 Touareg, 78K miles, and the check engine light comes on from time to time. The dealer says it's a timing fault and that the engine needs to be "torn down", repairs between 5K and 7K. Car works fine except for the light going on/off.
I have an extended warranty, purchased from VW (but not a VW warranty). The warrenty company won't guarantee that they'll cover the repair unless there is evidence of a problem. The dealer says that timing issues won't show any evidence of a problem (something about a tensioner, and there being no visible sign of an issue with it). I think the warranty company is trying to get out of a repair.
If I don't fix the problem, I am told that the engine will incur significant damage. The warranty company won't fix that either because, now that I've reported the issue, they'll have on record that I chose not to catch the problem earlier. I'm not familiar with timing issues, tensioners, and whatnot.
I have an 08 tdi - this is the 5th time that the check engine light has come on, and again it is the exact same problem. they have replaced the sensor twice, and every time it comes on, they just clear the code and set me on my way.
VW of Fairfax, has my car, as it's all 1 mile from my house, but their service guys suck, refuse to give me a loaner, tell me to wait an hour, and 5 hours later, call me to let me know they have escalated the issue, but that i can come get my car and it's safe to drive on. I do not deny that a exhaust temp sensor is going to prevent me from driving, but I do not like or think it's fair that if my check engine light is on, i should be driving the car.
We have a 2004 Volkswagen Touareg . 1000 miles ago the check engine light came on and the dealer (I will never go back again) said the catalytic converters were shot. We were going to get second opinion but when we picked up the car the engine light was off....so 1,000 miles later it came back on. Is it a good for us to buy a diagnostic tester and see what the issue is ourselves then take it to a mechanic and have them fix that exact issue?
View 7 RepliesAbout a week ago I got the fuel cap light on a steep hill in San Francisco. Next fill up it looked like the cap might have been a little loose. Can't remember exactly. A few days after the first warning I got a solid check engine light. I have 110K miles. I've had the coil packs replaced twice and the check engine light flashed when that was the culprit.
I've driven the car 4-5 times about 5 miles and the light hasn't gone off on it's own. It is a real hassle to take it to the dealer and I don't have much time. So:
1. Will it clear itself of the issue goes away, or must it be cleared at the dealer?
2. Any other V8 04' had the same issue?
Check engine light flashed for a very brief period, car ran very rough, and then check engine light (exhaust system malfunction) stayed lit. Took to dealer this AM and service advisor asked that I bring it back on Monday morning (loaner promised) but in the meantime, I could continue driving it unless the engine light started flashing. Car is now running okay, but last night it seemed to be running on only 6 or 7 cylinders. Only 93 or 94 octane gas is used and I've owned enough German cars to know how the gas cap should be tightened. Seemed like an oxygen sensor malfunction last night but now I'm not certain.
View 15 RepliesCheck engine light on, these are the codes, can't find anywhere? Seems to run fine. '07 fsi V-8.
View 3 RepliesWell I noticed the fans are running at shutdown, then next day check engine light plus the jack light which I was able to turn off. I have had the same symptoms several months ago and they went away. Now its back.
View 5 RepliesFilled tank with 8 gallons of 91 octane to top off. One hour later noticed car running rough at idle then check engine light comes on. Could it be the coil pack? Car has been running very well until now, and this Gremlin appears. I don't think it's the gas.
2004 -V8 Treg
52,000 on the odometer
I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
View 4 RepliesI started my car and a chain rattle noise then the check engine light popped on. now I have two codes, p1340 and p0012 codes for camshaft issues.
View 1 RepliesGot these codes after my check engine light came on.Cleared the light with my OBD2 scanner several time but it kept coming back on. One week at the dealer who replaced a 'sensor' after vegging it and talking to the VW Tech line! Light came back on the same day I picked up the Touareg from the dealer :confused. Dealer thinking about what to do next.
2007 FSI V8 Touareg...
@75000 miles my first check engine light. Here are my symptoms......
~After i shut the car off the fan keeps on blowing at a very high rate as if the car is over heating, its currently 45-50 degrees.
~On cold morning when i start the car up and turn the steering wheel I hear a very loud whining sound, but after driving for about 20 min and the car has warmed up the sound goes away.
My car is in the garage, been having a bunch of issues with the check engine light. This is my current problem, Check Engine light is popping up because the catalytic converter is sending an error. However, there is nothing wrong with the converter, it keeps sending the same error. My car has been in the shop for exhaust issues and valve problems, but this has got them stumped.
View 24 RepliesI was driving home and all of a sudden my rpms are at 3.5 4k rpm wont shift to next gear. I put in in tiptronic mode and shift it to 8 it works fine. Then about 10 minutes later check vsc shows on dash traction control light is on check engine light is on and the light next to the check engine i think it is the abs light. I havent pulled the code yet.
View 1 RepliesJust had my lexus dealership do the ELF recall. While it was in there I had them check to see why my check vsc light comes on randomly which sets off the check engine light.
They came back and told me that my water pump is leaking, what are the future problems of a leaking water pump?
They said the check vsc light is coming on, in their words is "found center y pipe, gaskets leaking at front pipe, may still need to replace converter pipe." So what does that mean and what do I need to do?
Recently bought a 1994 Toyota Celica GT with a 2.2 off of Ebay, for a good price mind you as the body work on it is very nice, sporting a "seamless supra" body kit as they called it and some nice 8 spoke unilug rims.
The car has been nothing but problems from the start, first- when they shipped it to me, the car had been sitting for a month, so they jumped the car with a semi. Blew all of the relays, took me a few days to figure out that dilemma (as I'm not much of a car person)
Once the relays were replaced, the car ran beautifully as a 94 with 174k on it does.
And the trouble starts, I changed the oil in the car- was about to give the engine and the suspension a total overhaul and baby the car up real nice, the next morning as I am driving to work the oil light blinks a little bit, but I think well maybe there was so much sludge in the engine that the Part-Synthetic High Mileage Castrol motor oil I used broke up some and it had a bit of a hard time processing it.
Well by the time I get off work, I start the car, oil light is on permanently and I am hearing definite lifter noise. I dropped the oil pan, cleaned the screen and made sure the oil pump still worked, and replaced the oil filter. Still nothing. I checked the oil pressure by removing the filter and turning the car on momentarily, the car spat oil out where the filter is and will spit oil out if revved from the top where you place the oil.
But then all of a sudden it wont even start, it will turn over- but it wont start.
2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg
When I start my car the ASR light is already on and I cannot turn it off by hitting the button. It's just permanently on. Then as I start to drive and step on the throttle and get above 3000rpm the ECP light turns on and my car goes into "limp mode". Then in idle the engine stutters and RPMs go up and down, up and down. I'll turn off the car and the ECP light disappears but comes right back on again after getting above 3000rpm.
Thing is, these issues only appeared immediately after the following:
-Disconnected and reconnected CCM (checking for faulty wiring, battery was connected during this)
-Disconnected battery terminals for 3 minutes and reconnected them (no key in ignition)
Did I cause an issue by disconnecting battery?
My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?