Touareg :: Catastrophic Electrical Failure / Malfunction Due To Dead Battery
Jul 9, 2007
Last week i took my '04 V10 in for tires/brakes/rotors with a local service shop. The next day they called saying one of the service attendants must have left the keys in the car overnight, because the battery isn't working right.Here is what happens (all within about 15 seconds)
1. Put key in ignition, engine starts normally
2. Multiple error lights immediately start flashing (engine, glow plug,tire pressure, etc, etc...
3. The MFI screen goes black (like the Tony Soprano finale)
4. the center console flashes "safe ..........." for a split second then goes blank as well.
5. the a/c does not run at all during this
6. the engine RPMs will not increase despite pressing on the accelerator.
7. the engine suddenly stops.
8. everything is then dead on the car.
This all takes place over about 10-15 seconds. This entire process can be reproduced by taking the key out and starting over. They are shipping the car out to a dealer for further evaluation, their computer gave them some sort of "battery learning error", but they were unable to reset it. I haven't heard of a dead battery behaving like this. The Touareg never ceases to amaze
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
My car has the original battery and it hasn't given me issue. Even a few weeks back when most of the country was really frozen and the car was parked outside, it started fine.
Last week after a work day in the parking lot, she was dead-dead. No dome light, no cluster, no lock LED. After 5 minutes tethered to a friend's battery via jumpers, it quickly showed interior electricity but the starter strained. 5 minutes more and the car started like nothing happened. Last weekend after a movie, the car was dead-dead again. I opened the door to see if I could hear the starter to determine how dead it was and the dome/cluster lights came back and it started fast.
The car sat for 36 hours or so and started fine, even after pretty substantial temp drops. Got around town for the past 2 days, no issue.
Today the car was dead again. Jumped it off my Mk2 and went on my way. It started fine and got me to Advanced Auto where their battery tester read 400 CCA and their info showed spec was 430 CCA. They didn't want to sell me a battery yet and suggested an overnight trickle charge and to monitor the issue.
If it was just a dead battery requiring a jump, I'd replace it. But the other oddities + the seemingly good test #'s makes me wonder what else I'm seeing.
View 10 Replies
I have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
View 7 Replies
Ok so I've had this problem since I bought the truck and has never really caused any damage anywhere except in the rain and snow it makes it brake loose much easier. i bought the truck at 90,000 and im at 217000 now. I just recently added a programmer and bored it out and now I am concerned the extra power will cause catastrophic failure, i found this which accurately describes it as to what the problem is? my 92 f-250 felt this way when the driveshaft was getting loose but no such problem on this one.
View 3 Replies
My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
View 18 Replies
Against my better judgement I picked up the ex wifes 2001 Prius after the "mechanic" she took it to ran the HV battery dead. I picked up two Gen II batteries and built me a good battery. Then I cleaned all the corrosion off the harness and terminals and put the HV battery back in. The engine spins but dies. There are no engine codes but under the HV ECU cattegory I get a {P3106 communication malfunction, engine > HV}. I had a spare HV ECU and swapped it and get the same code. Spare engine ECU and the same code also. Not sure where to go from here. How to check voltages at the ECM ?
View 10 Replies
My radio displays the word "Safe" when the car starts and will not work. I am guessing that the electric system failed at some point and I now have to put a code in the radio to get it to work. My question is: exactly what buttons do I push to do this?
View 1 Replies
I bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD with 47,000 miles. I am currently on my fourth battery in 13 months. Between 12/2008 and 12/2009 I have had to have three batteries replaced. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do. The last time the battery died on 12/5/2009 the car could not be jump started and had to be towed. The dealer said there was no parasitic electrical short and I have just had three dead batteries in one year. I have heard there have been electrical defects in Toyota products and it is not just the gas pedal.
View 14 Replies
Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
View 6 Replies
I am having problems with ALL my driver door electronics, except the fuel door. my passenger side works fine, sunroof works fine. Ive removed the door panel to look for obvious problems, like broken wires.. Fuses are good, looking for a good place to start. Power winder/locks.
Little update, i reset my battery and they worked, waited like twenty minutes, nothing works again.. why would i have to reset the battery every time for the windows to work?
View 1 Replies
After several checks and resets , my Touareg clocks are fast by about 2 min/week. No other electrical problems. Not a known problem with my dealer. Clocks aren't hi-tech ... MFI may have clock module- seems overkill to change it.
View 24 Replies
I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
View 3 Replies
I have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
View 6 Replies
I own a 1997 ford f150 V6 engine and I have problems with the electrics. I turn the key on and the engine starts up runs great but I then look at the gauges and not one moves at all the. No fuel when i have just filled up,no tep,no oil,no battery all read nil. I went a drive and the speedo reads 0 it does not move but the truck drives great. Could it be a fuse, does a fuse control the gauges, which one it could be. I have lifted the hood and under the hood on the drivers side there is a box with small and larger fuses.There is one that is very small and the colour is white that's blown. Would you no what that fuse is for.
View 1 Replies
Well my two weeks of Touareg bliss just ended with a dead battery. I guess two weeks out of car is all you can expect. I know I'm not the first... but seems pretty unbelievable in that I have never had such a problem with any other car in 35 years.
View 9 Replies
I got my V8 back from a dead battery for the 2nd time. As usual, they have not found the problem. They said that there isn't any battery drain and the battery holds a charge. This time I took it back to my dealer I purchased from, not that it means anything.
I know there have been a lot of talk about different things that are causing the problem/ fixing the problem, but I have noticed that it may not be some of the ECU's, Navi/radio, etc. but could it be that when the vehicle is actually running the Alternator may not be charging the system significantly while driving when things are turned on, as in multiple things like AC/Heater, Fogs, heated seats, etc at the same time? Reason is that I have noticed with my V8, if you turn off all of these things the voltage gauge reads very close to 14 Volts and when you turn them on, it drops/cycles to about 13.75-13.5 volts. The dealer loaned me a V6 Touareg and with all these things on, the Voltage Gauge read 14 Volts solid most of the time or pretty close to. Meaning that the Alternator may be keeping up with all the things turned on (Current Draw).
With my V8, if you have these things on and you are running around town starting/ stopping without driving it for a period of time the Alternator may not be sufficiently charging the battery and then when you park it like overnight with the normal drain on the system in off state you may not be able to start it. Could there be something there or am I way off? Since they are always looking at the battery and if there is any drain on the system when it's off, is the alternator keeping up with the Touareg's requirements when it is running?
View 5 Replies
Every second or third time I turn over the engine, I get a warning telling me my key battery i dead. It's a 2006, so I can see how it might be. But the thing is, it still works from far away and the automatic unlock when I touch the handles never fails either.
Is it common to get a warning when there's still juice left in the battery or is this an error?
View 4 Replies
The yellow key icon came on in the MFI, which means the key battery is dead. The other key works fine.I'd like to replace the battery myself and reprogram the key (if necessary) instead of leaving it at the dealer for a day. How to open the key and reprogram? I looked in archives and the one set of instructions doesn't work. Nothing in FAQs.
View 13 Replies
I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
View 1 Replies
