2006 3.2L vr6 Touareg , I think the pick up has some trash or something in it . I keep receiving a message in my dash cluster that says stop check owners manual oil pressure constantly flashing.
View 2 Replies2005 V8, 25k miles. This morning I started the car and heard a clicking noise in the dash right behind the keyhole. It was intermittent and sounded like a cricket as I was driving. It was not too loud, a few db less than a turn signal click. Every few seconds, the MFI message said "Place lever in P position" ... Nothing else doing anything abnormal. Car otherwise sounds and drives fine. The 4WD knob was in high for normal driving.
View 4 RepliesGot in my car yesterday and the airbag light on the dash stays on and a airbag fault message pops up in screen next to the speedo. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesOn 2004 Passat 1.8T Tiptronic that I am daily-driving these days, I recently had this message displayed on the cluster:
Along with this, I had "Beep beep beep" repeated over and over, and E-brake light (!) blinking at the same time. I scanned the car but VAG-COM (latest version) couldn't find any DTC, so I inspected the car and found the rear brake pad was rather thin (but not all the way down yet). Since it looks overdue, I am going to replace the rear brake pad, but looking for more info about this particular warning.
My 2004 Phaeton with a little over 100k miles on it has been giving me a problem with the air ride suspension. When starting the vehicle, a "Level Fault - Workshop" message is displayed on the instrument cluster, and the car has been slowly sinking as the air ride (I presume) slowly deflates. Around 10,000 miles ago, I had a problem with the suspension, but that time the car immediately and actively sank; this was solved by replacing the air ride computer (it is the B, not C-type). I've tried replacing the computer with another B-type computer, but to no avail. The local VW dealer and an independent import car garage have told me some things, and I would like to learn more about this problem and possible ways to try and solve it.
1. I have been told that no voltage is making it from the computer to the left front sensor. Dealer says its the computer, but could this possibly be the wiring harness or a bad connection? If so, how do I get into the wheel well in order to test this hypothesis? My best guess is it isn't the computer, as the car never actively sank (this happened when the original computer went bad).
2. I have also been told that the right rear sensor is bad. Is this a part I can replace with a modest amount of auto knowledge? I do my own oil, replace brake pads/rotors, etc. If so, any drawing/maintenance manual parts list available?
3. I have heard conflicting reports as to a freshly-ordered sensor being and not being compatible with the B-type computer. Dealer told me new sensors will only speak to a C-computer; independent garage told me new sensors will speak to my B computer. Who is correct?
From a few hours of internet browsing from the first instance and this second instance of failure, it seems this is a somewhat common issue with the 2004 Phaeton.
The other day I saw this message (or something similar) in the instrument cluster display for the first time. I was parked, car unladen, engine not running, parking brake on, facing somewhat uphill, when I attempted to change to the higher ride height.
The Handbook doesn't refer to conditions for ride height adjustments.
I'm pretty confident my batteries are fine. I attributed the reluctance to the fact that the car was pointing uphill, though on reflection may that not be exactly a time when you do need to change ride height?
A few minutes later, driving on the level, the ride height adjusted perfectly well, and it has done so since whether moving or at rest.
2005 6.0L F250 Lariat. I picked up a couple weeks ago. The message center in the gauge cluster will only show my mileage (kilometres) and engine hours but nothing else.
Also the three buttons/controls to the right of the steering column don't do anything. I checked the wiring behind the dash and it's all plugged in... The other problem is the SRS light will flash on and off while driving.
Looking for the steps of how to remove the dash/cluster in the 04 camry? see, i want to change the bulbs in the cluster, but i dont know how to remove it? and do you know the bulb size off the top of your head?
Second: What is the name of the bulb that screws in the a/c control board, using a flat head screwdriver, you unscrew this green bulb from the back of the pannel, there are two bulbs, i need to know what they are called so i can order some new ones.
The info on this site about led info on all the bulbs is in fact not complete because it dont list the bulb size of the 04 camry dash cluster and it dont list the bulb for the a/c vent control
Also, what the speakers are called in the door and rear of car? see the 6x9 that were in the deck seem to look shallow mount speakers and the ones in the door seem to be special too because of the small magnet on them, how do i order the correct speaker the first time?
We're new here and new Prius owners. We bought our '10 Prius IV in December. We absolutely love the car. Last week I went out to get in the car and noticed the dash instrument panel ( where it displays the mileage in time increments ) is all fogged up. How to un fog it?
View 1 RepliesThe instrument cluster settings has not been working and they would not set when i would try to do this.It would go back to the same setting as before.They checked it on the computer and everything would register like it was ok but the computer could not detect the fault.Come to find out it needs a new instrument cluster and that was the fix for it after they took three more Tregs apart to make sure it would either work or not work at all.They all worked except for mine.It is being replaced and shipped overnight.
View 3 RepliesMy dashboard has a rattle (surprise!) in the instrument cluster and today I have located the source of the noise. It comes from the right side of the hood piece over the dials. The right corner of the front edge of that hood rattles against the rest of the console. It can be fixed by applying a little piece of the electric tape or a piece of foam on the inside of that hood. I do want to go to the dealer and I'd prefer to fix such a minor problem by myself.
Looking for a schematic on how to take the dashboard apart? I wonder, why this dashboard hood consists of 2 pieces made of hard plastic attached without any padding? Of course, they will rattle!
I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
View 1 RepliesSo recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
View 9 RepliesSo I've been able to suppress all of the rattles in my car except one: The cluster trim right above the display rattles, it creaks, hell, I can hold a conversation with it. What can be done to remedy it? The 'turn up the radio' technique doesn't work.
View 3 RepliesSo I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
View 1 RepliesI have an 05 4-cyl LE. The dash/cluster dimmer switch isn't working, but all the lights are on and at full blast. I removed the fuse panel cover and coin try. There was a set of wires and a plug just free floating back there (3 wires and a black clip). I could not see anything plugged into the dimmer so I figure that's there the plug goes? I can't get my chubby fingers up back there to plug it in and would like to remove the trim panel to gain access. I can't find anything out there on how to remove that panel.
View 1 RepliesI am on occasion getting a warning on my instrument cluster regarding my locking diff. System Fault!! Workshop!! is displayed. As well the adjustment knob on the center console flashes yellow.
View 11 RepliesI have 1998 Plymouth neon. It does this more in the hot month than the cold month but I drive down the road and the dash cluster will go out no tach, speed, no gauge, mileage will not work but all dash light, signal light, high beam all will work.
It seems that when it cools off some, some time a minute sometimes a few minutes when it comes on the seat belt and airbag light come on or you can turn off the key for a few seconds and it will come on, bums will not make it go out or come back on.
What can it be?
Yesterday I noticed an extremely weird noise coming from the engine bay in my 2004 SE I4 5spd. I've pin pointed it to be a bad alternator diodes. During my testing, I also noticed that my battery light/warning discharge/charge warning light on the cluster/dash does not work.
I know by turning the key into the 'ON' position should illuminate all the dash cluster warning lights that associate with your model (i.e. ABS, TRACT, OIL), but the dash light for the battery light does not turn on. I've verified that even by disconnecting the alternator's cables (the 1 line and the 4 pin connector) and then starting the car, the battery light does not turn on to indicate a discharge situation/bad charging system. I have verified with my other 2004 XLE V6 auto Camry that by leaving the car in the 'ON' position will keep the warning lights on.
See right of the airbag light, no battery light illuminated. Door and seatbelt light does work, I just had door close and caught the blinking seat belt light off when pic was taken.
Reference below is my 2004 Camry XLE V6
I tried checking some fuses in the cabin and engine bay. All the ones I looked checked out okay. Could it be the LED for the battery light is blown/dead?
Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
There's a clicking noise in the dash behind the headlight switch and all the cluster lights blink on and off when I turn the key. If I try to start it-nothing! If I pull the key out and try again all the blinker lights stay on. Could it be my aftermarket alarm or something else? I didn't have much luck searching.
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