Touareg :: Battery Died At 7,800 Miles
Feb 16, 2004
Drove from KC to Wichita (189 miles) on Friday. Drove around in the city (probably less than 22 miles) that evening. Touareg has been in the driveway of my father-in-law's house since. Got in the car this monring (Monday) to go pick up my 2 nieces and the thing was dead. It didn't want to give my key back but I insisted so it did.
I have it on a charger right now and it is drawing 12 AMPS. I just hope the thing starts later today when i have to get back on the road to go back to KC.
Big bummer. Nothing unusual that should have caused the problem, but I do have yet another theory to add to the pile. This theory is a running one from my previous Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. It developed an electronic eye issue. When parked the eye sensor would malfunction and tell the headlights to come on. So, the battery would drain in my garage overnight. They replaced the sensor and the problem went away (which I thought was strange since the Jeep was off in the garage disabling the sensor from being able to tell the lights to turn on).
When I went out to the Touareg this morning I noticed that the parking lights were on (but very dim). When I switched the light switch to the "O" position they went off.
Do you think there is possibly a light sensor issue here as well? Who frinkin' knows?
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Bought my 06 Touareg V6 two weeks ago. Well the battery died and couldn't start 10 minutes after I got her home. So the battery was replaced with a new one and it has been fine since.
Well except for the fact that I have a Gray interior and the dealer put on the lower trim panels in front of the driver's seat from a anthracite colored interior!!
Around the trim that would be taken out to replace the battery. I would like to make sure all the parts are there when I get it fixed. [URL]......
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Went out to touareg this am to go play golf...car would not start! 2nd time this happened, in 3 weeks! They gave me some BS about a signal coming from local station that puts radio in an on position waiting for a signal.
Well, I call this am to tow, the service MANGLER states that there software fix! Well, I will let them know I want a NEW battery...and the problem fixed. Also, tires a wearing a little on front after 20,000 rotation. I will see what they will do.
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Well the dealer has had my car for over a week. Battery died after spending 2 days in the garage. Not sure if the alarm was set. Anyway, I am getting the nonsense that the car draws approx. 6 amps when sitting, and a lot less when the alarm is armed. They checked the amp which is not a serial number for which they said has problems. I still do not believe the car draws this much power but this is not the point, I believe all of the control modules should go into the 'sleep' mode at some time.
Tomorrow, I will go down to the dealer and ask them to run the tests in front of me, with the doors locked and alarm armed, and then left unlocked key not in ignition. If there is a high draw on the unlocked scenario I will then asked them to tell me which modules are drawing power and at what level. I will then asked them to duplicate the same scenario with the car armed and locked. Any other test which could be? How long does it take for the various modules to enter the sleep mode?
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I am only currently APR stage 1 and my clutch is completely shot. It is currently at the shop getting a stage 2 endurance clutch put into it.
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I have had my 2006 B6 for 4 months now and it has been running perfect, and I have been loving it. I brought the car to the dealer to get PA state inspection and have the wiper recall taken care of. I then get a call from the dealer telling me the oil light came on during the test drive and they are looking into the cause.
Later that day the dealer calls me telling me that we have serious problems and that I will probably need a new engine, I was like WHAT!!! Now before I brought the car in it was running perfect I had no previous problems or anything. After talking to the dealer again, he said they found gas in the oil and a "ton" of metal parts in the oil filter compartment. They are now sending the VW Engineer and a local Rep to figure out what to do.
Engine failure at 12k miles? It seems weird and a major lemon if you ask me. I'm not sure what they're going to do at this point, but all I know is I drive 40k miles a year and need a care that can last, I am not paying $580 a month to drive a car with a replaced engine at 12k miles. This is very frustrating, I hope they either replace the car or pay off the remainder of the loan.
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So i am writing for my Aunt and her 2005 prius. She had it in for a tune up drove it home and it died. Started up again and was fine after about ten minutes. Now the wierd part. She brought it in to see what happened etc all is fine and she starts to drive home and the odometer is reading roughly 30,000 miles less then when she brought it in...
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I didn't drive my truck for one day and the batteries are died. This is the second time this has happen. That is a pretty fast drain time. THe truck only has 2500 miles on it. And I;m talking the batteries a dead dead. I hate having to take the truck to the shop. Just a big inconvenience. And it only happens about three weeks apart. I bet that would be pretty had to find the problem.
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Searched and found you tube video to get battery out but doesn't work on my fob. Mine slides open and once opened can't find battery, Vw shop if closed, can't lock or unlock doors?
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Twice my battery has died on me after driving some distance. Both times the dealer kept it and said there was nothing wrong, said I just don't drive it enough. Told me I need to drive 15 miles a day or leave it idling in my driveway for 20 mins to keep the battery revved up! The two times the battery went dead happened after some more significant driving. I left it in my garage for 2 weeks and came back, it was fine. This advice seems flawed.. I do drive the car most days and sometimes it is not 15 miles. Mileage is 20K now.
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Was driving on some segmented highway concrete that send my front end into quite a thrashing. Slowed down quite a bit and it settle down some but nothing like that before. Pain attention to ride but it feels OK, corners, etc. BUT, over the past few weeks, I've noticed that it has become quite sensitive to sharp transitions (BOTS dots a.k.a. line markers, driveways, etc. so I have a suspicion that one or more of the air spring assemblys has possibly failed or a leak.
It's like the equivalent of a worn out strut. The car hold up. Raises and lowers, etc. But I can't push down on the car to test the response of the suspension like a standard strut car. What is the expected life of the air suspension? And cost to replace pair or all four. Not looking forward to the possible expenses.
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Dang, my engine light came on at 5K miles and then a few days later it went off. Should I take it to the shop to see what's going on? Is it safe to drive? Even though the light is off now. Looking for a list of items that I can check myself before I bring it in to the shop? It seems to me that something might came loose and it tighten itself due to driving or weather???? Anyway, I like to check it or fix it myself.
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Well, since I had to fix the traction battery. The car I bought was a salvage vehicle that had been rebuilt.
On pesky problem was found after I'd had the car for about 4 months. I let it sit for three days. When I went to start it nothing happened. The 12 vdc Aux battery died. It tried charging it and it wouldn't charge. I bought a new aftermarket battery at WalMart and installed it. Merrily being led down the garden path I figured I'd not see that pesky problem again.
I was wrong. It continued. About the time I was going to tackle it, I moved and that took the next 4 months and the Prius sat idle when the HV Traction battery error cropped up.
This week I figured since all the carpets and shrouds were out of the trunk for the battery repair I'd look at the luggage courtesy light, it was the most obvious cause of an error. Sure enough the lamp would not shut off even though it seemed to operate correctly. It pulls up ground and turns on the light.
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I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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My girlfriend has a Tiguan, and I noticed there are no key holes anywhere in the car. I noticed this after leaving the lights on in my GTI and having to manually key in to gain access to the car.
What happens if she were to leave her lights on? Is there a separate battery source for the keyless entry? I have to think there's something smarter (than me) to keep you from getting totally locked out of your car if your battery should die...
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So the 2011 Prius was sitting around for a month as my friend was out of town. It is parked in my side yard. The hybrid system started just fine, and I put it in neutral while I was sitting there about to drive it. The battery shut off while in Neutral. From what I've read, the battery won't charge while in Neutral. The car will not accept a jump from another car using jumper cables, but it IS GETTING POWER from the portable 10amp charger I set up. The lights in the cabin now come on, the doors respond to the key, etc. The engine will not start though, even though the battery charger says "fully charged". As soon as I unplug it, there is no power to the Prius. I think the problem is that there is no way to get it into "P", which according to the manual, is the only way to start the engine.
The hybrid system will not start in Neutral, according to the manual. How to get it into "P" at this point? The light just doesn't come on when I hit the "P" button. I've tried simultaneously holding the Power button, trying to switch "mode" and everything. Nothing responds.
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I have a used 2002 hyundai Elantra gt that I've owned since the 4th. I bought this car and everything was fine but I had to put a new battery in it because the previous owner was taking hers. A week after replacing the battery the car died, I thought maybe it was a bad battery so I replaced that one also and the car ran for about 2 days and then died again. I replaced the alternator last Monday and again the car ran until this past Thursday. I took the alternator back and had it tested and it failed. So I went to a different shop and had an alternator tested before purchasing it and it passed. Put the alternator in but the car won't stay on longer than 30 min.
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In late fall, I got a recall notice from VW for my 04 V6 Touareg and just got around to bringing it in to Leith VW (dealer I purchased from "new" with about 900 miles on it in May 2005 as one of the last '04s on the lot) in Cary today. Since it's at 18,900 miles, I had them do the scheduled 20k service, plus my state inspection was due so added that as well.
They just called to let me know that although they did pass the inspection for me, the car really needs 4 new tires because the tread depth is below marginal. Also, they said that they are not a dealer for that brand of tire so they cannot give me any kind of treadlife warranty prorating on the replacements; if I want to claim it, I need to go find a tire dealer somewhere.
What kind of BS is this? How could a dealer sell a new car with a tire on it that they aren't actually a dealer for? Did somebody pull a fast one on me by swapping out the tires for an old set laying around before I bought it?
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Could there be something else going on, or should I really expect to have to replace the pads at 19,000 miles??
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The engine light came on with only 1700 miles on it. Is there a check list that I can go over to find the problem. I want to check it out myself before I take it to the stealers I mean dealer Or is there a way I can check it on the MFI?
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